88pathoffroad

Also, lifting the front suspension does not result in more travel, thus stock-length shocks should be used in the front while longer rear shocks can be used with a disconnected sway bar for more rear axle travel without any problems.

There are some WD21's that have no CEL. Dunno what years or models, but I've seen the back side of the dash from someone on AC's forum that had no CEL, the spot where the CEL would be was all blacked out.

Also try cleaning the MAF sensor, check for broken or loose vacuum lines, and check the wiring plug for the MAF sensor, sometimes it hits the underside of the hood and causes an intermittent connection at the MAF.

Yeah, requirements for lighting in different countries are strange sometimes. Not one car in the US I've ever seen besides a VW Beetle or Karmann Ghia have any rear fog lights.

You don't want 16.5" tires, man. I seriously doubt you'll be able to find wheels to go with them that will fit the Pathy unless they come with some Chevy 6-lug wheels. Most 16.5's are 8-lug AFAIK. A tire shop will NOT install 16.5 tires on 17" wheels, sorry.

The sport/touring switch changes the valving inside the original adjustable shocks. The sport setting makes the shocks stiffer and the touring setting makes the shocks softer.

Unplug the dimmer switch and see if it still does it.

If the keys are close or the locks are old and sloppy, then most any key will work. I've opened numerous junkyard Nissans and Yotas with just a pocketknife blade. My Pathy key has opened two other Nissans, a Pathy and a HB pickup.

Problem with bolt-on supercharger kits is they give minimal power gains and cost a butt-ton. There was a company called Alpine (I think) that produced a R50 SC kit but it was something like $3000-$4000 and it gave up something like 25-40 HP IIRC. There's just no aftermarket love for Pathfinders unless you have a huge amount of cash to drop on it.

Could be a shift solenoid sticking, replacement requires buying a complete solenoid pack from the stealership and taking off the pan (possibly the valvebody?)

Ouch, damn. That sucks. That's one of the few broken piston rings I've heard of so far. Post Originally from "Nytro's_finder lives again!" Topic

They're made like that. Don't ask me why...

Do you mean that the t-case shifter doesn't move or that it doesn't move at all in 4WD? I'd jack it up and get underneath with a flashlight and take a look at the shifter from underneath, maybe it's been damaged somehow. That's on the driver's side.

I used a couple of ratchet straps on mine when I had a spare on the roof. Just remember that even a 31" tire and wheel is pretty heavy.

Excellent man! Glad you could get 'er going again.

Good job on getting it figured out!

Damn, that's a good mystery. Where's Scooby-Doo and the gang when you need 'em? About the only other thing I can think of that would lower compression across the board is a broken t-belt not turning the cams, or broken cams. Or a slipped timing belt. Check and see if #1 at TDC lines up the distributor rotor correctly?

The timing belt on a 94 should be changed every 105,000 miles. Welcome to the NPORA forums!

I think the vaporization effect is pretty minimal, even considering the internal volume of the tank.

It's an 80's Chevy truck MC. IIRC all you have to do is redrill the mounting holes and then adapt the brake line ends to the Chevy size. Don't get a hydroboost MC, it's totally different.

I seem to remember seeing some stuff about the PCV valve blowing enough crap into the intake to cause the left side cylinders to carbon up more than the right side. It may be crap in the rings or on the valves, or perhaps the cam on that side is wearing more than the other one? Hmmm. I hate mystery problems that require tearing apart the engine to diagnose.

Did you try wiggling the output shaft a bit when it was up close but not going forward? I hate alignment issues with transmissions, they're so damn heavy and difficult to maneuver...

It might be that the UCA's are in fact too short to allow you to lift it at all and still have it aligned properly. Still have a stock UCA laying around you can compare measurements with? Try measuring from the center of the spindle (as close as you can get) to the center of the upper BJ hole.

I have a pair of hood grilles from an early 80's turbo Dodge Daytona I want to set in my hood some day if possible. You know what else would look cool is an Isuzu Impulse RS scoop...kinda small but still. I think it's an AAMRAM type.

I would start with fuel first. Do you get fuel at the TBI? Do the injectors spray after you turn the key and crank it? KISS, start simple. Since the last thing you worked on was the TBI, start there.