88pathoffroad

On a 97, the CV axles are always spinning regardless of transfer case position, remember?

Very simply put, you're overthinking it and the guys at NAPA are idiots for telling you that you need some sort of special fuel line. I used 5/16" generic fuel hose and clamped it down with a new hose clamp. It's nothing special, it's nothing different, it's perfectly ordinary and commonly available fuel line, and it works perfectly fine. The fuel pump for the TBI system only runs at about 37 PSI anyway. The guys at NAPA are idiots.

New guage cluster. I can't think of any ways to fix a broken odometer unless you'd like to disassemble it completely and try to figure out what happened to it...

The whole thing, or just the lid, or what? There are also several different styles of consoles over the years.

Unless I'm really off base here, that Dragon setup won't fit your Pathfinder, Chromotech. They listed the years wrong, it should be from 96-01, not 95-01.

Heating up coils weakens them, yes. But I'm not heating them up in the MIDDLE, for chrissakes. Wake up, Chromotech.

TOLD YOU SO.

Mine sits at about 1/2 way up or a little higher.

Yep. Crank the stock ones up instead of buying new ones. Mine are still stock, still work fine.

You'd be lucky to see a 2-3 HP increase if that's the only mod you're going to do. You probably won't even notice it.

Well, if he's not gonna use it offroad, then a stock replacement will do just fine. Yes, the stock centerlinks wear out exactly as you described. They're probably right about that one. It's a common weak point in the Pathfinder steering system.

That booger-welded thin plate is going to re-rust and start falling apart just as badly as the frame was before you touched it. Welding that on like that is just inviting trouble. It's not even fully welded around all the edges...look at how many places there are right there for salt and water to get back into the old rusty area. I seriously hope you're going to do something else to cover that up, cause it's not fixed by any stretch of the imagination as it sits.

The drain tube for the condenser is plugged up. It runs through the firewall from the inside and points downwards. Unstop whatever's blocking the drain hose and it'll drain outside instead of on your wife's toes.

My man, no Pathfinder EVER came with rear leaf springs from the factory. That is the most moronic thing I've heard recently. They have always been coil-spring equipped and it is NOT an aftermarket upgrade. The guys at Firestone are dumber than a bag of hammers. Frame rust is a very common problem in areas that get a lot of snow and road salt. Caveat Emptor...you bought it. Just because the guy had on a uniform and a wrench in his hand doesn't mean he's automatically right.

1. Still got the PIAA's, I'm holding on to them cause they're $350 a set. 2. Install the belt, insert hex wrench into tensioner, turn until hex wrench points at approximately 5:30, just like the pic shows. Tighten 14mm tensioner set nut. Done. You should be able to take hold of the belt and twist it 90 degrees inbetween the camshafts. 3. Junkyard. Two different Pathfinders. They all have the same hooks. There are captive nuts inside the frame on both sides. 4. Thanks.

The bumper bracket bolts are accessable through the fenderwell. There are holes in the inner fender that you can see the bolts through.

Fsck all that. You think I'm lying? This is how the tensioner should look after properly tensioning the timing belt with a 5MM Allen wrench. Note the added black stock tow hooks... Alpine tilt-face CDA 7898, XM ready. New steering box from the junkyard. Bring it!

Boy, am I going to be ready for Sand Lake tomorrow. In the last two days, I've changed my timing belt, replaced an upper balljoint, swapped stereos, moved and placed new rock lights, swapped out the steering gearbox, changed the oil, finished up the final details on the skidplate, fixed a wonky front marker light, built an anchor system for my rear battery box and a mount for the stereo capacitor, rewired a bit of the front stereo amp(new remote-on wire under the carpet), took off the front chrome towhooks and bolted on two stock Pathy towhooks...and a few other small things that escape me at the moment. I've crawled, laid down in and scraped myself in the gravel outside my garage for hours at a time. *wipes brow* Man, I'm tired. It's oh-beer-thirty.

Look, man. You bought an IFS equipped unibody vehicle, not a truck built to haul things around. There's quite a difference, if you hadn't noticed...

I'm not touching this one. It's too easy for me and all I'll do is look like an a$$hole.

Hehehehe Post Count +1

Definitely. Loud noises and possible damage would result from switching into any mode of 4WD while in motion with manual locking hubs unlocked.

It might be clear how it works, but it's not "simple", per se. On a scale of 1 to 10, 1 = easy 10 = hard...I'd say about 7.

In other words, you don't HAVE to, it's just a heavier-duty unit and stays positively locked forward and reverse until you decide to unlock it manually. Better gas mileage is a bonus on the R50 chassis vehicles...

No dice on that pic, man. 404!