88pathoffroad

1. www.google.com 2. "backspacing"

1. No. 2. Depends on what kind of experience you have and tools available. I'd rate it a 7 out of 10...

Don't let empty shells fall on ya! That'd hurt...they're kinda big.

Fram filters are the worst you can buy. Seriously. http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/ I've since gone to NAPA Gold or Wix filters(same manufacturer). They're just as cheap and work great.

No. Yes. Just fine so far. Yes. I did, but it was a rare find. $20 for the pair. Care to ask any more questions?

Could be that the front driveshaft has been installed out of phase and is causing the vibration. They're balanced so that they should be installed in only one position. I have no idea on how to check for proper installation of the front driveshaft, though.

Tire carrier or roof rack, or you could try an under-hood bracket instead. Mine is bolted to my Yak racks on top on the passenger's side. Bolts cost like 15 cents each, man. It's not a huge deal.

Stock length will work fine with a 3" suspension lift, but you might want to go one size longer on the rear shocks for better travel. Rancho 5118 is the stock # in the rear, I'd suggest using 5116's or their equivalent instead. They're about an inch or so longer. Rancho #5252 is the stock front shock #. I have no idea on the Bilsteins.

Take the inside plastic panels off and use a flashlight to find the hose inside the sheetmetal. It's most likely right under your nose...go look.

Mine are set up with an Optima red-top in front and a deep-cycle broadband gel-cell sealed storage battery in the rear hooked up to the stereo amp wiring. There's an isolator in the engine compartment that the alternator feeds through to both batteries. I screwed a bracket to the floor through the carpet in the rear, then mounted a battery box with standard tiedowns attached to the bracket and the stock tiedown bracket on the floor.

You ought to try searching the forum for stuff like this... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1105

Meaning what? Mine has cruise control and it had an open rear diff.

Heh heh heh

1. Have remaining refrigerant drained/evacuated. 2. Unbolt. 3. Remove. 4. Replace. 5. Get system recharged with new refrigerant/oil. No special procedure, just get a repair manual and take it off.

You'd be best off to replace the o-rings on the injectors, for safety's sake. You wouldn't want a leaking injector to hold you up after reinstalling the whole thing.

That's a good cup holder idea, jptester. Looks nice.

Dremel tool time.

Search for "fender trimming" and you get this, if you look down the list... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=711

Reindexing means that you physically remove one anchor from the end of the torsion bar and put it back on rotated two or three splines over so that you can crank the bars up more without maxing out the adjusters. Stock bars sag over time and it's possible to have the t-bars cranked up until the adjusters max out, but still have the front end look saggy from the faded bars. Reindexing lets you keep going.

The fan doesn't exactly shift into "high speed" mode... To put it more precisely, the fan clutch heats up, then locks up, which causes the fan to spin faster than it would with the fan clutch unlocked. With it unlocked, the fan freewheels on the clutch. That's how those work.

These Nissan autos shift funny to begin with, so I wouldn't necessarily worry about what RPM it shifts at unless it's causing problems or obviously shifting too high or low. It's entirely possible for the auto tranny to have problems at your current mileage if it was abused in the past, neglected or overheated. A flashing Power dash light means that there is something wrong with your transmission. Go read the pinned post in the Garage on how to run diagnostics on your auto tranny if you want to go that route. The tranny cooler is inside the stock radiator. It should be completely bypassed and you should get an aftermarket cooler instead. An aftermarket cooler costs about $60-$125, depending on what kit you get. Install is extra if you can't do it yourself, of course. It's not hard to add one, though.

Yeah, but you're doing it all yourself. Consider what someone would have to pay for a decent shop to do it for them, starting with IFS and no axle.

Mine came with new ball-studs too. Just unscrewed the old ones and put the new ones in.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1651 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1599

What ended up happening with that warehouse full of old new Pathfinders, anyway? Any word?