88pathoffroad

Yep, all H233B axles, AFAIK all 33 spline. Only locker available is the ARB.

The fuel pressure regulator is attached to the side of the TBI in the back, if you were wondering where that was. The return fuel line to the gas tank is attached to it.

Those Bosch ones suck anyway. Get a nice set of PIAA 40's instead.

See if you can find a o2 sensor socket at your local parts store. Then use a BIG breaker bar or pipe.

mwuahahaha *evil*

$2.05 here now.

With all the other edges, lips and angularities under there, I'm pretty sure everything'll work itself out. I beveled the leading edge of the plate, too.

How did you replace the CAS? They don't even do those at the dealership, they say it's not removeable from the distributor. The TPS is the little black plastic box on the side of the TBI, yes. The one that has a recess in the middle of the backside for the throttle plate shaft and is adjustable by loosening the mounting screws and twisting the whole thing. NOT the MAF sensor with the protruding pair of temp probe wires and an o-ring, kinda like a lightbulb filament. ECU's from 87-89 have a toggle switch instead of the screw. Just like it says in the ECU Error Code Procedures thread in the Garage. I'd say run it, get rid of the gas that's in it. Run a tank or two through it to eliminate that possibility before throwing more parts/money at it.

They won't rip it apart, they'll simply sell it for ~$200-$400 or so, as-is, after compression testing it.

Define "good suspension". I can't think of any aftermarket parts that are made to replace stock ones and not change ride height.

Come on, Kiwi. Don't start crap just cause you like E-spec lights. You made your point, very good speeches, very good presentation, now please let it go. Making broad statements about the US's actions in general like that is just asking for a flaming and you know it. Shush!

Use a balljoint remover. Duh. You know, the u-shaped deal with a big bolt through the middle of it. Worked fine for me. Cost $6.99 each at Harbor Freight Tools.

OK, finished! Thanks for the comments on dissimilar metals, 87Pathy, I used rubber spacers to keep the alu separate from the steel mounting points. I darn near forgot about that. Flat 3/8" thick aluminum plate, 40 lbs verified weight. 2.5" hole cut for oilpan drainplug access, removed stock transfer case skidplate, retained the stock front skidplate with a few modifications to make it fit. Given the choice, I'd have made it about 6-8" longer to cover up the back end of the t-case, but I got this piece for free, so I'm not complaining.

It runs fine the way it is, when it's fully warmed up. It likes to try and stumble when it's halfway warmed up and I give it gas. Runs perfectly great otherwise. Not a single complaint. Better acceleration and more kick to the seat of the pants! I set the Neutral idle at about 1000-1100 RPM's to counter the power accessories pulling too much off the top end of the engine. In gear, it sits at about 800-900. I also re-set the AIC valve control a little higher so the engine kicks up a little more when I turn on the A/C.

Sure, at $350 per hour of dyno rental time and where do you find this "Link Plus" computer again? I'm sure that's pretty cheap, isn't it?

You can buy 9004 True HID kits off Ebay for about $350 nowadays...comes with conversion bulbs, relays, ballasts and everything.

Use a longer bolt and another nut. The bumpstops are about $7 each from the dealer if I remember correctly.

Remove the fill plug. Do this first in case the plug is seized. You wouldn't want to drain out all the oil and then not be able to fill it back up. Place drain pan or catch basin underneath the center of the diff. Remove the drain plug. Drain all oil. Clean off magnetic drain plug. A light coating/crown/halo of iron particles on the drain plug is perfectly normal. Reinstall drain plug. Do not overtorque, just tighten it up nice and snug. Refill with 80W-90 GL-5 gear oil. If your diff is a limited-slip, use GL-5 with the limited slip additive in it. The diff is full when gear oil is level with the lower edge of the fill plug. Should take about 4.5 quarts.

They should only be charging CA tax to those living in CA. You can't charge someone living in Oregon Cali taxes...

Like I said.....STOLEN. Or it could be an insurance fraud type of thing. Go ahead, get some more of your fingerprints on it, dude.

I've never heard of using a 5" wide rim on a 4000 lb SUV, even in stock form. That's a safety hazard all of it's own.

http://www.nissanpartspro.com ?? Some companies group their websites so they can grab more traffic and still sell the same things under different names more easily. That's probably what's going on.

A limited slip differential. Try changing the rear diff fluid before doing anything else. Look for a small orange sticker on the back side of the diff housing facing the rear bumper. If you have that sticker, then it's a LSD rear and it's probably working OK, but the fluid could need changing. If someone drove through real deep water then never changed the fluid, it could have gotten water in it and water/gear lube mixes would definitely be a bad thing to have rolling around inside your rear diff. It'll come out in thick white globs if it has water in it.

The dealership. Nobody else makes cheap replacement interior parts. Good luck finding junkyard parts if you do decide to go that route.

I just use the clutch any way I can, however it pleases me to drive. When it wears out, I'll get a new one that works better and put it in. Why worry?