88pathoffroad

That's what silicone is for, isn't it? Hehehehhee

If you drive with the manual hubs locked, you will need to stop to shift from 2WD into 4WD. You always need to stop to shift from 4HI to 4LO anyway. You shouldn't need to stop if shifting from 4HI to 2WD, but it'd be a good idea.

Ouch. I bought my K&N filter here in the US for about $45 and the cleaning kit with the aerosol oil can for about $20. I wonder what it would cost to ship such a thing to Russia from a friend, or if it would even be possible?

Those things are a complete rip-off, and you will get WORSE gas mileage if it's installed. Let me just say this, letting some schmuck selling "Power Modules" on Ebay readjust the way your engine runs isn't the best way to get more HP out of your engine. That, and gains are very very minimal if at all. I really doubt you'd even notice it. Adding more fuel and changing the timing curve will net you about 1 HP tops on a stock engine. What an idiot. He couldn't even look up the proper word for his "highly technical" explanation. It should be "stoichiometric", and it's not "efficiency", it's "ratio". ARGH. Stupid people trying to take advantage of others!

Premium burns slower than regular unleaded, which means you're passing more unburned fuel out the exhaust pipe by using it in an engine not built for it. It's not really a huge amount of unburned fuel, but I'm pretty sure it'd be better to just run 87 octane. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong...

Oh yeah, cause the new lift kit steering knuckle attachment point is for the earlier tie rod ends. Hey, there you go!

Bah, that looks easy to disassemble. I bet I could get away with just a real light sanding and some polishing, couldn't I? There's a chrome shop here locally, but I bet it'd take them a week to get my ONE part done. Mleh.

Like it says at the top of that thread, I did not write all of that info. It's a compilation of AC forum posts and added-in stuff from other people.

I'm sorry, none of the US Pathy's were carbed. For that matter, only about .01% of them were 4-cylinders in the US as well, so therefore I never get to see 'em. The TBI system isn't even close to being a carburetor. It's fully computer controlled and has integrated electronics.

I think too far would be installing 1" spacers, then cranking the t-bars all the way up. *nodnod* I'll report back after messing around more with mine.

Yes, NOS should only be used at WOT. That way it doesn't have a chance of leaning out the cylinders and possibly causing detonation. Using NOS shouldn't have any adverse effects if installed properly and used sensibly... just don't install a 200HP shot on your 3.0L and hit the switch. It won't do anything to your electronics, but it's recommended that you reduce overall timing by about 2 degrees per 50 HP of NOS added just as a safeguard against detonation. I hit WOT all the time trying to accelerate on the freeway, between stoplights, etc. My auto Pathy sucks at accelerating. I'm seriously considering a 50 or 75 HP setup for my Pathy. I think it'd be fun. Maybe I could find a Cheater or Zex setup for cheap on Ebay.

It's an Eaton, yes. The intake setup, pulley setup and everything would have to be swapped over, but I think the heads on the VG33 are slightly different from the heads on a VG30, so it won't directly fit. There was a guy on the AC board that was trying to get one to fit from a SC Frontier...never did hear if that worked out. I've seen a guy bolt an M90 from a Thunderbird SC onto his RX-7 with few additional accessories...built an SC system for about $300, including the cost of the M90 off Ebay. Wish I knew where the link to that one went. I've lost it.

None of the Pathfinders were carbureted. 87-89 got TBI, 90-95 have MPFI. All of a 7 HP difference. 87-89's have different CV axles and auto hubs than the 90-95's. There are a large number of interior package and trim level equippage option differences. Of course, there's the grille/bumper differences. The chrome packages on the 87-90-something models were all kinda crappy, and the 93-95 chrome packages were nice and rounded. Rear suspension is different in some year models, some of the 90-95 models had tubular rear control arms instead of the cast-iron ones. The H233B rear axle was a little different in some years, but I can't verify that for all models. There's a ton of differences. I can't name them all, I don't know them all and I don't pretend to.

So drive slower.

Yes, but you can mod things to make it work OK on a 93-95. Just have to cut down tie rods, etc. I really don't have all the info on that one right now, sorry.

Bearing seals and stuff, methinks. I'm looking into it. PITA to remove the whole steering box to do this, though! Argh.

Yep yep. What the BJ spacers do is allow you to crank the t-bars up some more before they hit the upper bumpstops, at the same time dropping the UCA attachment point 1/2" or 1", which makes the angle on the upper balljoint less severe. It is still alignable, yes. The thing that limits IFS t-bar cranking lift is the CV axles. They will bind up and break if pushed past their specified travel limits. They weren't designed for such extreme travel angles. You'll be near their limits with cranked t-bars in the first place.

Running the hubs locked will spin the front diff and axles fulltime, which will contribute towards early CV boot wear, etc. You can't shift on the fly with manual hubs locked, no. If you did, you'd get a really nice loud grinding noise.

Thanks! Now all I need to do is remove the AC compressor, lines, etc...move the alternator up top and get a new coil for the MSD system. I'm running the stock ignition at this time due to coil problems in the past. But the total timing IS advanced 2 degrees and running perfectly fine.

Here's one more:

Here's a peek at what I've been up to for the last two or three weeks. Let me just say that Lee from L&P Performance (http://www.lpperformance.com) has had a MAJOR hand in my engine mods thus far and I'm pretty much going to do to mine what he's done to his engine, to a degree. His is running 11:1 compression, adjustable cam gears, custom ground camshafts, etc, etc, etc... Mine is coming along. This is the fuel injection unit for the 1987-1989 Pathfinder V6. Totally ported, polished, modified and cleaned out. The inside isn't just shiny, it GLITTERS. It's AWESOME! Should add about 10 HP, mostly on the top end. Check it out. http://www.lpperformance.com/Performance%20Services.htm I repainted the aircleaner housing, trimmed off all of the outer rim clips, vaccuum line spigots, breather hose line port and everything, plugged all the extra holes in the aircleaner, removed the hot air riser and valve, the temp sensor valve from underneath and generally made it watertight up to that point. It's almost totally smooth around the perimiter. I've added a K&N breather filter for the crankcase breather as opposed to using the stock filter foam stuff in the stock aircleaner housing. All the recirculatory/EGR accessories, carbon canister, AIV lines/hoses, etc except for the PCV valve and breather filter have been removed. All the TBI unit coolant lines have been removed. I think there are about four total vaccuum lines left on my whole engine right now.

Turns out that I don't have any sort of alignment tools and toe-in was all I could adjust with any degree of accuracy. It steers REALLY funny. Needs a pro job. Ah well. I also need to rebuild the steering gearbox.

If enough people wanted some, I would attempt a batch of 5 or 10 at about $25 each plus shipping. I don't really want to make them on a one-by-one basis. Too much grinding and black boogers involved.

Oh yeah, I also made some 4 1/2" drop brackets for my emergency brake cables in the rear. When the rear axle flexes all the way out, the cables were pulled pretty dammn tight...so I made these. They work fine.

Here's the finished product. I just painted it black. You know, AC sells these for $40 each or so. I made mine for about fifty cents worth of welding wire, scrap steel and some of my hard-earned time in the garage...