88pathoffroad

All the bolts on mine say "7", big and small. The shorter small ones are the ones that go on the latch/handle assembly. The longer large ones go on the tire mount.

There's no such thing as a Grade 4 or a Grade 7 metric bolt. Pictures would be a help. Dude, there are only so many places you can bolt things. Work it out. It's not rocket science.

The easiest swap would be to swap another VG30 in there. Heh. Add headers, adjustable cam sprockets and a supercharger, and you're set.

I've slept in it over the weekend in the front seat. Uncomfy, but tolerable if you don't have a tent or bed. I have way too much stuff in the back to be able to sleep in the cargo area, hehe.

Yes, please. The only way I'm buying AC parts is used, heh. That way I can throw them away later cause I know they were cheap and used and not worth much. PM me or email me about it and I'll get right back with ya on the money, etc.

Take a Sharpie and put a spot of ink on the light first. Try that.

That's Les's HB pickup steering system. Custom centerlink with Heim joint TRE's. It was made by XTC from the AC BBS. Runnerman: sure, post whatever you like. It's your arse if they decide to delete your post and ban you for talking about it.

Try a hardware store for the power steering hoses if you still want to extend them. It's standard fuel line, basically. Those hoses aren't pressurized so they can just be made out of normal fuel line. Good work, man! Sorry I didn't find out about the BJ spacers until they killed my UCA's.

Hehe. Yeah yeah yeah. Funny stuff. http://www.damagedreality.com/tmaster.html <------Link to how to install a Trailmaster 3" body lift on a 2-door auto tranny Pathy. I'm sorry to say it man, but it sounds like your tranny is showing signs of being worn out and needing a rebuild or replacement. A shop can quote you on their cost, but it seems to run at least $1100 for a rebuild and a bit more for a new tranny. You may be in need of a new oxygen sensor or a new catalytic converter to cure the rich smell. That's a generic type of problem that happens on a lot of cars.

I can't publicly post on the AC forum anymore without being threatened with legal action, so I just posted this on every other Nissan forum and we'll let everyone read about it that way. The junkyard UCA's only cost me $10 each and about a half-hour to swap them out per side, so I'm not out all that much. I think they'd deny culpability anyway, you'd have to take them to court to get anything out of them in damages. In other news, anyone want to buy a set of AC 1" BJ spacers cheap?

After looking through the wiring diagrams from my Chilton's manual, it would apear that there is a "safety relay" which controls the fuel injectors only in case of malfunction or accident. The safety relay is orange in color and is located inside the Pathy, on the passenger's side in the front inside the lower plastic kick panel near the floor in front of the door. It's fusible link is located at the battery and feeds a white/blue wire that feeds power to the relay inside the vehicle. This may be what you're looking for. I do know that some vehicles like Ford Mustang 5.0's have a fuel pump safety/accident shutoff switch like the one the police officer described to you, it's inside the trunk beside the trunk latch. I don't think the Pathfinder has the same thing, there may be something else wrong with your wiring or something.

Check your rear axle trailing arm/control arm bushings. Sounds like they may be going on you.

Warning...don't use AC's 1" balljoint spacers. They'll damage your upper control arms if you offroad your HB or Pathy at all. This is a picture of my passenger's side UCA after discovering that one tire was leaning inwards while the other was still straight. Note the torn bushing on the left side. New UCA on bottom, with my bent one on top. My Pathy was not dropped off a cliff, involved in an accident, put in a ditch or anything like that, I simply drove it on and offroad for about three months and this is the result. The opposite side UCA was also tweaked, but not as badly as this one. Les, whom I bought these spacers from, had the same thing happen to him...only worse. We're both lucky an accident didn't result from the use of these parts and their resulting effect on the suspension.

Your wax choke may be sticking. It's a common problem on the VG30i engine. The wax choke has two coolant lines going to it on the front of the TBI and has a plunger that should move freely until the engine is heated up. I had to mess with mine until I simply removed it totally.

Go here and read this: http://www.damagedreality.com/tmaster.html That's what it took for me to install a body lift on my '88. You can fit 31's on a stock Pathy easily, a lot of them came from the dealership with 31's to begin with.

Super Swamper TSL radials. I've decided that I need a 33x12.50 Swamper TSL/SX or something like that instead, though. The centersection tread just kinda blurs together and I'd like more tread block separation all the way across.

The front is a R200A Nissan differential, and the rear is a H233B Nissan differential. They're totally different animals in build and quality, but I'd say the rear's about the equivalent of a D44 or a Ford 9", and the front's about the same as a D35. Apples to oranges, you know...

Eeeeeh, the front is the same I think, but the wheelbase was stretched a little on the four-doors after 1992. Not much, but also still not the same. There are already skidplates available for 1987-1995 Pathys through multiple sources.

hehehe Exactly. That and tranny coolers from Exploders.

Well yeah, anything with more than OBD I will require a reader to process the error codes.

Some dealers won't do it anyway, I've heard mixed reports on getting those replaced.

Chromotech: go read this thread: http://65.166.200.170/ubbthreads/showflat....5995#Post317219

Good deal on getting your Pathy! The lock linkage fell apart on mine on the passenger's side for the same reason...I ended up ziptie-ing it back together and just being careful when I unlock it, heh. Works fine.

The Quest/Villager fan is dual-speed also, my man. Almost the same exact fan.

First off, here's the thread that tells you ho0w to read the error codes from your ECU. http://npora.ipbhost.com/index.php?s=&showtopic=21 The problem with your Pathy is interesting. When you turn on your ignition key, all the dash lights should light up for a short time just to show you that they're working, then go off. That's not good. I dunno about that one. The starter solenoid wire is prone to taking damage or falling apart. Here's a thread that discusses fixing the no-start problem if you get into it and that's your only problem... http://65.166.200.170/ubbthreads/showflat....5995#Post317219