88pathoffroad

The frame-to-bumper mount bolts are accessible through the wheelwell from the inside. You shouldn't have to remove the wheels, but jacking it up would help.

They stopped making 2-doors in 1990. They all come from the factory the same height, but it's easy to lift it a little bit and make it seem taller. If your Pathy has a manual tranny, it has 4.375:1 gears. If it has an auto tranny it has 4.625:1 gears. The transfer case is a 2.02:1 ratio in 4-LO. A 235/75/15 is approximately 28.8" tall, and 31's came on a lot of stock Pathfinders, yes. Your Pathfinder probably has rear antilock brakes, yes. Anything else? *grin*

Oops, I posted the wrong resistor. Sorry.

On mine, it's a small brown plastic connector located on the right hand side of the vehicle behind the carbon canister and up against the inner fenderwell. It should be labeled as to what the resistor's value is on the brown plastic casing.

It's going out on you, I'm afraid. Have it checked out by a professional shop for confirmation.

Nah, THIS is stuck. I've been in worse spots, but didn't have a camera, heh.

Pathfinder Phil is using Grade 5 hex head bolts instead of studs and he has reported good results. The theory was that the Grade 8 or 10.8 metric bolts were too brittle and don't take the heat/cool cycle as well, even though their tensile strength rating was higher. The bolts don't need to be torqued down all that much to begin with.

Why would you want to run old lifters with new cams? They suggest replacing them with the cams, in any case. Better safe than sorry.

The Calmini setup's definitely worth the money, it's just expensive. A full set of replacement stock steering parts would run about half the cost of the Calmini setup, but that doesn't include installation...

The solenoids are inside/under the valvebody of the transmission...unless you want to tear apart your exhaust and tranny to get to them, they're not a serviceable item. Sorry. Here's the link to the testing procedures... http://npora.ipbhost.com/index.php?s=&showtopic=1580

Sounds like the shift solenoids are sticking...

Remove all the old exhaust manifold studs and replace them with 300ZX studs, have the stock exhaust manifolds checked for flatness and shaved if necessary, then bolt the manifolds back on with new gaskets. Or you can just remove the stock manifolds and install headers.

Most likely a broken stud or two and slightly warped exhaust manifold. The manifolds aren't all that prone to cracking.

Jim hasn't done cams, no. You'll need to disassemble quite a few things to put new cams in, plus replacing all the lifters. Altogether not too horribly difficult, but not too simple either. If I had someone give me the cams, I'd do it myself, but the $400+ price tag kinda keeps me from messing with them at this point.

Generally 32-35 PSI is good for all-around comfort and tire wear.

Tires, then some JGC springs with a full coil cut off would be a good place to start, crank up the t-bars about an inch and install new shocks... You don't have to lift it a lot to get better performance and looks out of the stock setup. The shocks will help a lot if you still have old stock units installed.

I've heard of several people experiencing this problem...the tranny needed to be rebuilt, end of story. Expensive proposition. Sorry.

I got another stock hook from the junkyard and bolted it on the driver's side. Works just well on either side, they just don't want you to use the tie-down hole on the driver's side for towing or pulling cause it'll bend under a lot of stress. The tow hook won't, regardless of which side it's mounted on.

A brand new SC would run you that much, but it's not really necessary...basically you need a kit that will allow you to install one first.

I'd just replace the one and let it be for the time being unless I had $$$ on hand and wanted to do the headers myself.

Use the ignition switched-on wire for the fuel pump relay. That's what I used for mine.

Sounds like your alignment is off a bit due to the t-bars being set one way, then the other, plus the wobbly steering components don't help. Mine has been wonky since I started off-roading it, it's just something that comes with the pastime and has to be dealt with or fixed as best you can...I've been through three centerlinks and a full set of tie rods, three idler arms, all four balljoints plus one more upper balljoint, all my bushings are shot, etc, etc, etc...

Should just be a popped fuse. Check your fuse panel under the dash near the driver's side door.

Alpine rocks your socks off.

Know what, and what the he-doublehockeysticks is a katzin leather interior?