88pathoffroad

Bang on the hood until it opens! hehe If that fails, use a big screwdriver and pry it open.

Yeah, that would include the timing belt. You might just plain leave it broken off and just bolt the headers on anyway.

Probably not without swapping the intake, ECU, injectors, fuel pump, some wiring, the bracketry for the SC belt, and a few other things...but hey. If you've got the money, you can do anything to it you want.

I'd suspect the cooling fan or fan clutch first. Do you get hot air from the heater when this happens?

If the Check Engine light's not on, those aren't codes, they're part of the normal engine operation cycle. The ECU will normally flash it's lights while the engine's running.

EGR system all clean and working properly? Mine was completely clogged before I took it off.

Check to make sure all the wiring's plugged in, then check the distributor to see if it's 180 degrees off. If I remember correctly, the rotor should point to about 9:30 for the #1 TDC position.

Long-arse extension and ratchet.

There are at least five different end mounts for shocks, so no, they aren't all the same. The numbers probably indicate valving for the shocks during soft compression and hard compression. The higher the number, the stiffer the shock.

Yakima and Thule both make roof racks for your Pathy, as well as Con-Ferr.

Remove the #1 sparkplug(front plug on the passenger's side), put the crank bolt back into the end of the crankshaft and use a socket wrench or long wrench to turn the crankshaft. Use a flashlight to watch the piston through the removed spark plug hole. Watch for it to come up the bore until it's exactly at top dead center, then you've got it. Make your own mark on the timing cover with a punch or whatever. Most timing covers never did have a timing mark for the crank pulley, they made a mistake about that.

The alignment guys forgot to recenter the steering wheel for you.

You might ask the dealership, but I think I remember hearing somewhere that the recessed lighting in the dash is LED-lit and not bulbs. If that's the case, then it probably has a loose connection somewhere or something.

In other words, yes it will fit just fine.

Using a longer shock on an unlifted suspension will probably bottom out the shock on compression, which isn't all that good for the shock. You planning on lifting the back end soon?

There's a smallish (1") hose coming off the valve cover on the passenger's side. It's the only one connected to the valve cover itself. At the other end of the hose is the PCV valve.

Good troubleshooting skills, man! Nothing better than figuring out how to fix troublesome problems on your own for free.

My universal Taylor 8MM wires were like $75 new.

Sounds like your oil pressure sending unit might be leaking.

It should be fine. Just bypass the stock cooler completely and use an aftermarket cooler instead. That's the trick.

If the bolts physically hold it on OK, then the amount of BJ showing through the hole makes no difference. You should be fine.

The interlock button just allows you to start the Pathy without stepping on the clutch. It has nothing to do with shifting into 4WD. I think what happened is that you shifted the transfer case into neutral and didn't quite make it to 4-LO. From 2WD, the transfer case shifter lever should pull straight back one notch to 4-HI, then you need to push down on the shifter, pull it back another notch into neutral, then while still pushing down on it, pull ANOTHER notch back to put it into 4-LO. Does your 4-HI work OK? If so, there's no reason your 4-LO wouldn't be working. Your hubs may also be at fault, I can't tell without being there to see it myself.

Yep. Should be the same. For ease of installation, see if it runs OK on the 95 ECU first. If not, then swap out for the '91 ECU and try that.

Wierd thing: I keep finding HD JGC springs installed on random JGC's. The HD springs have .58-.59 diameter coil thickness, and the standard springs have about .50-.52 coil thickness. There's a definite difference in comparison, visually.

BJ spacers will wreck stock UCA's eventually. Superlift UCA's are the next best option, with Calmini UCA's being the best. The AC UCA's are cheaply made and poorly designed. New torsion bars would be a good thing to have if your old ones are sagging.