88pathoffroad

Buying new tires based solely on cool looks isn't the right way to go about things, man...heh

$8 each to turn them (here where I live) if you bring them in yourself. Taking them off yourself, however, is another matter...hehehe.

The Trailmaster kit includes 4" spacers and a panhard rod drop bracket for the rear. You can add lift coils no problem.

No, you're wrong again. You CAN stack suspension lifts. You can install the Trailmaster 4" drop-down lift and a 3" Calmini, AC or Superlift kit. That'd be 7" of true suspension lift. The only ones you can't stack are UCA lifts(Calmini, AC or Superlift). The stock height replacement REAR RS9000 shock # is RS99018. That shock is 14.25" compressed and 20.125" extended. 7.875 total inches of travel. L1 mounting eye both ends. A #RS99034 is 20.125" compressed and 34" extended with 13.875" of total travel. L1 mounting eye both ends. A #RS99036 is 21.125" compressed and 36.125" extended with 15" of total travel. L1 mounting eye both ends. You pick. The 9036 will give you more travel(obviously), but if you keep the rear swaybar, you'll probably never get it to extend that far, so I'd go with the 9034's for mild offroad use. On the front shocks, I believe you can just go with the ones supplied with the Trailmaster lift and you should be OK as long as you don't use any balljoint spacers with aftermarket UCA's. I got the shock specs here: http://www.gorancho.com/documents03/03_catalog_specs_1.pdf

AC took the link down after I changed a few of the pictures. Sorry. The water pump's pretty straight-forward...got a Chilton's book?

Just be aware that any significant ride height change will also change toe-in and camber of the alignment. When you get it where you like it, have it aligned at that height by a shop with the proper specs. Driving around with the toe off and the camber off will either wear out your tires fast or make it hard to steer properly. I would know, I've been eyeball aligning mine for the last year or so, hehehe.

http://wd21forums.damagedreality.com/phpbb...topic.php?t=133 http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html Go read.

The timing belt should only need to be changed every 100,000 miles or so, so you won't need to have that done for a long time. The engine accessory belts should be replaced every 30,000 miles or so, depending on their condition. If they're shot, replace them. Accessory belts are cheap compared to being stranded out in the middle of nowhere on the side of the road.

Sounds like the reverse solenoid isn't working properly or the bands are shot. That'll probably take a tranny shop's attention to fix.

Interesting. Yeah, sometimes the alternator going out on you will make the dash lights come on like that.

Do it yourself, or inquire at a upholstery shop, perhaps. Know anyone that can sew?

Meh, that's not a good test. Open diffs will still spin both tires if the traction is equally distributed to both tires. I've done a two-wheel peel on dry asphalt before I got my locker, and I DEFINITELY had an open diff. One other way to check is to jack up the rear axle completely off the ground, then put it on jackstands, start it, put it in gear and let the rear wheels idly spin. Get out and use a 2x4 or something to try and stop one of the tires from spinning(if both are spinning). If only one spins anyway, then it's an open diff. If you can't slow down one tire without slowing them both down at the same time, you probably have a LSD. You can also just jack it up and see if both tires spin the same direction when it's in neutral with the engine off. If it does, you have a LSD. If the opposite tire spins the opposite direction, you have an open diff.

Is the fluid level OK? There's no wire that could've been knocked loose that I can think of. Don't use the stock cooler in the radiator, bypass it entirely. It may be that it's finally clogged up on you and isn't letting any fluid flow through, which would overheat the tranny and kill it pretty effectively.

Very true! Good luck, it's a journey worth taking!

The orange sticker on the back side of the rear diff is a dead giveaway, they generally stay put.

The CV boots don't have anything to do with clunking noises, BUT if the boot is torn and the joint has been damaged or contaminated with sand or dirt, it could make noise. Replacing just the boot will not fix noise problems.

Dude, if you need pointers on where to put a jack, maybe you should have someone else work on your Pathy.

A measurement from mine wouldn't help you any, I have 33" tires. It'd be off by as much difference in tire tread height is between mine and yours, and mine are about half worn out. Plus tire pressure, parking angle and/or steering wheel angle will affect the height of the same thing. Heh.

The stock alternator only puts out about 60 amps. Good for a bone-stock vehicle and battery. Bad for a vehicle with eight offroad lights, aftermarket stereo with two amps, back-up lights, underbody lights, etc. The upgraded alternator puts out 110 amps. MUCH better for lights and accessories. Maybe a little better for HP too, but not noticeably. The dual batteries split the load between starting/running the vehicle and running the auxiliary components I have installed. On mine, the rear battery feeds the stereo amplifiers, roof lights, rock lights and the back-up lights. A single battery up front will only cover so much power usage before killing your alternator.

I would definitely not like the design to be on the front. Looks funny. Pocket tees?

It'll need WD21 2-doors, 4-doors AND R50's on it to be complete. All three generations of Pathfinders. Let's see some cool designs! I'd try but I don't have Photoshop, I suck at designing graphics, etc...

You can get clear turn signal lights on Ebay all day long for $15. You have to do WHAT to back up your Pathy? Why??

Yep. The rear coils on a JGC are shorter than the fronts. Basically the only way to tell a 4.0L front spring from a V8 spring is by measuring coil wire thickness. A Cherokee 4.0 spring runs between .48-.5" and a JGC front spring runs either .52 or .59. I have a set of the .59 springs installed right now, they give a full 3" of lift.

I have no idea why they would charge $40 for a $15 glasspack. You might want to look for your own muffler and just have them put it on for you.