88pathoffroad

Don't you have a manual tranny, Rami? I thought you did. In any case, I have one you can have for five bucks. I'll even help you put it in if you want.

Rancho, KYB, Bilstein, Monroe, Les Schwab, Trailmaster, the list goes on... By the way, shocks won't lift anything.

The Nissan dealership? Just a guess.

AFAIK, the only Nissan diesels Terraons got were 2.7L inline 4 cyl's. I have no idea, cause they didn't come to the US.

Well, lots of dealerships are reluctant to do that much work for free, so you might call around and ask first. You never know.

They all have an access door through the floor. You don't have to take the tank off to get the fuel pump out.

#1, it's basically the exact same engine, and the Pathy upper intake actually makes more power than the 300Z intake does. Moot point. If you swap all that stuff out, it'd basically be rebuilt and would make more power, but I wouldn't expect much without upgraded parts. #2, no. Another snake oil type gizmo that won't do anything but make your engine run richer and possibly advance the timing a little. I dare someone to post an actual dyno run back to back with that Venom thing. I bet there's no difference, much less a difference you can feel.

Shocks don't help carry loads, they merely dampen the rebound of the torsion bars or springs as your vehicle moves over bumps while driving. There's no real ONE shock absorber that's the best, buy whatever you want. Ranchos are real good for taking hard bumps and hits, but otherwise ride kinda stiff. Gas-charged Monroes are good for overall road ride and handling...and so on. There are about a thousand shock absorber companies out there. Do some research.

90 degree angle long handled needlenose pliers? Or you could cut the hose, pull the intake off, and replace it with a longer loop of new hose if you don't mind the way it'd look. It'd be easier than trying to put a little short hose back on in a tight spot.

Dirty mass airflow sensor would do that to ya. Changed your fuel filter lately? O2 sensor? Run the ECU error codes and see if anything comes up.

Use an external tranny cooler instead of the internal one on a stock radiator. The internal ones tend to clog up and kill your transmission. On the tranny years, I dunno.

They wanted more than that, if I remember correctly. This alternator upgrade only cost me $50 from the junkyard.

Is there anything visibly wrong with the other motor mount? Looked to me like the mount bolt simply broke on the driver side one, that prolly won't happen on both sides. I'd say if it's in OK shape, leave it alone until it needs to be done.

The hardline AIV tube goes from the AIV box to the catalytic converter. There should be a 3/4" plug in the side of the cat that it goes to. On the horn, I dunno. Take apart your steering wheel and see if anything inside is screwed up.

If you want it to smell nice, use baby oil.

Take it to an auto parts store and have them test it for you. Easy and free.

Very good idea, bro. See, I'm not the only one experimenting with his Pathy and letting everyone else know what works and what doesn't!

Nobody makes headers for the R50 3.3L or 3.5L V6 Pathfinders yet. Sorry.

The stock adjustable shocks have two settings, Sport and Touring. Sport makes them a little bit stiffer, Touring makes them soft. The only replacement adjustable shocks you can buy are from the Nissan dealership. You CAN replace them with standard non-adjustable shocks no problem, just unplug or cut off the wiring that goes to the stock shocks.

Sure. 10-30's also good in the winter time.

Um, what year Pathy? Which crossmember?

It's tough to slip that sucker on there, isn't it? Loop the belt around the crank pulley, around the tensioner(loosened, of course), then pull the top of the belt up to the cam sprockets. If you angle the belt so that just the edge of it slips up onto the teeth of both cam sprockets, it'll slide on with a little coaxing. Yes, it's a PITA, but it'll go on.

Oh man....you replaced the water pump, but didn't put a new $15 timing belt on there while you had it all disassembled? That's a bad idea. Sounds like you got it back on with the crank one tooth off. You're probably going to have to take it all back apart and check it to make sure. Put a new belt on there next time, the new one will have timing marks on it that should match up with the marks on the cam sprockets and the crank sprocket mark.

Step one: buy a Chilton's manual.