88pathoffroad

Sounds more like the fan clutch is stuck to me. That'd make it run cooler, but I doubt it'd make the thermostat fail. It also wouldn't run very much cooler. Where does your needle sit at now, compared to how it used to be?

Sounds like either a tank seam is leaking or the filler hose is leaking at a clamp. Get under there with a flashlight(no matches or lighters) and look to see what's up. Eyeball it, man.

No, it's long enough already. Nope. Swaybar can stay on or be taken off, no biggie. YOu don't have to do anything to that either. Longer shocks would help articulation, that's about it.

There are mounting ribs in the roof under the headliner, I think you'll have to pull the headliner down at the front and find where it's safe to screw things to. It's not that hard to get under the headliner at the front.

You wanna carry a what on a what? O.o Never heard of anyone doing that with a Pathy, heh... Roof racks would be the simple answer, but an extension ladder that long is gonna be a killer on a SWB vehicle like a Pathy...

Or unbolt the crossmember, jack up the tranny/t-case, remove the crossmember and lower the tranny a bit until it's easier to get in there.

Use an open-end wrench?

If you don't offroad it, de nadda.

I have no idea why you'd need to replace the entire TBI unit, that's crazy. Find out exactly what's wrong with it?

You need a test light or voltmeter. You can check wires and figure that out yourself with ease...

Oh yeah, I forgot. I added a battery isolator up front on the fenderwell with the alternator charging cable feeding both batteries. I used a generic kinda blue anodized isolator. It cost like $25 at the local auto parts store.

darn, man. I'd use the nickel plated ones for $370 shipped. That's a good price. And they're shinier than the ceramic ones!

On an R50 Pathfinder, they have drive flanges on the front wheels, not hubs. This means they spin the front axles and diff all the time, regardless of which position the transfer case is in. Putting manual locking hubs on an R50 frees up the front axles and diff, which reduces rotating mass and frictional losses involved with the front drivetrain spinning, thereby giving you slightly better gas mileage. If you do put hubs on a R50, you'd need to be real careful about putting it into 4WD while the vehicle is in motion, cause the front drivetrain won't be spinning if the hubs are unlocked. Shift the t-case into 4WD and it'd grind fairly nicely and make bad noises, probably.

Nah, some of the Sway-A-Way t-bars have been known to break during normal use for no apparent reason, or because they got nicked or scuffed, which allowed a tiny crack to grow and grow until it finally breaks the bar in half.

Doesn't matter. The tranny fluid will flow through it no matter which way you mount it.

Yes. Dual shocks are mostly for high-speed desert running or heavy duty bump supression. You'd have a really stiff ride with dual shocks on an everyday driver. The "which shocks should I get" topic has been beat to DEATH around here, do some searching and find out yourself.

There's nothing to tell, I simply added the battery box, screwed it down to the floor, dumped the battery in, and bolted a couple of short battery cables up to the subwoofer amp wiring. I already had all the cable in place to the rear.

The door lock linkages inside the door need to be lubed and checked for binding. Do that and I bet it won't happen anymore.

Usually when those die, the only fix is to replace the darn thing. I've never heard of an easy fix for the odometer. There's a speedo sending unit on the tranny, but that in turn should also drive the odometer. If it failed, you'd have no speedometer either.

1. If you spin the tires on gravel or dirt and it leaves two tire tracks, that's a pretty easy way to tell. 2. No. 3. No. 4. No. Refer to #3.

I could prolly get door innards for ya. What exactly do you need?

The ride is a bit stiffer, yes. Do you want to really offroad your Nissan or do you want to drive it around parking lots and look tough? Personally, I can deal with a stiffer ride. It's not THAT bad. You're not going to "snap" a t-bar from landing too hard. I've had stock bars on since I owned the Pathy and they have yet to "snap" or break or have anything happen to them...and I've jumped it flat to ground. You can't take everybody's word at face value...

The thermostat kit will come with instructions. Mine simply sticks inbetween cooling fins right next to the upper radiator hose. I bought the thermostat kit from a local parts store, Knechts. A Ford Taurus 16.5" fan will fit fine after trimming, as will a Quest or Villager 16.5" fan after trimming. They don't fit well in stock form, but trimming plastic is child's play.

Fun fun. You have to take the TBI off to get the injectors out. Takes a few taps with a precision dealie to remove them. Were those strut rod bushings as big of a PITA for you as they were for me?

I ran a 3" body lift with cranked and reindexed stock t-bars and stock UCA's for like 3 years with 33x10.50's on 15x8" wheels with 4" backspacing (neutral backspacing). I had to trim the fenders in the front a lot, though. I'd say unless you wheel it a lot or really want to go to 33's, just get some 32's and run those for a while. Bottom line, you can run 33x10.50's with just a 3" body lift and stock components, but it's not the best way to go...