88pathoffroad

No idea. Never driven a vehicle with a HUD setup. Never seen an aftermarket setup either, but I haven't really been looking for one.

It'd just free-spin the front axles inside the hubs and turn the back wheels normally.

A lot if you take it to a mechanic or the dealership. Like, in the $600 range.

Should read about 14 volts with the engine higher than idle, a little less at idle.

If you happen to come across a set of 1987-1995 stock Terrano, Pathfinder or Nissan pickup clear corner marker lights with black trim for cheap, I'd REALLY really really really like a set. I can buy them direct from an Australian parts retailer for about $65 USD, but I thought I'd ask if anyone else can help me get a pair cheaper. There's also a set on Ebay right now for $49, but man. I could buy the chrome ones on Ebay for $28, Dremel off the chrome and repaint them for less... Thanks.

I think the longer you wait, the worse it'll get. More studs will have enough flexibility to break after the first one goes.

You'd be better off to just go with headers and a K&N type air filter, keep it tuned up and you won't have any problems passing DEQ requirements and it'll have plenty of power. On the cams, yeah, they make mild performance cams and a total power performance cam set, but the performance version isn't for daily drivers that usually drive stop-and-go traffic. The milder cams will still make more power than the stock cams. You also have to replace all the lifters if you replace the cams.

Bottom line...if you want it to last a long time, leave the suspension stock and just get a body lift. If you use a suspension lift, you're going to wear out parts quicker, that's something you have to accept if you want to go that route. I'm currently on my third set of upper balljoints and second set of lowers, second set of rear lower control arms, second set of tension rod bushings and numerous centerlinks and tie rods... Here's a tip. If you're in the market for new balljoints, buy the cheapest ones you can find with a lifetime warranty and KEEP THE BOX AND RECIEPTS. Price doesn't necessarily represent quality when it comes to BJ's, like a lot of other things.

Was it wet outside at the time? Check your e-brake. If your axle seal is leaking onto the ebrake pads it'll do that, but the regular disc brakes will still work OK... If you hear a grinding noise, stop driving it and take it apart. You DON'T want to be stranded on the side of the 580/880 with a ruined rear axle and no bearing...

The original video is still on the NPORA main videos page... http://www.jimbennett.net/THEAIRNISSAN.wmv

You can only get one aftermarket performance camshaft set, and they run about $600 just for the cams if I remember right. It won't pass emissions if you install those. If somebody put the belt back on with one cam way off, it would run like crap, have no power and get terrible gas mileage. I wouldn't worry about the cam, I'd worry about the valves themselves. If they got hit by pistons, you'll need new valves, not cams. Doesn't your mechanic know that the VG30 is an interference engine? Why would he check the cams before the valves?

Technically speaking, you can crank 'em up till the UCA's are resting on the upper bumpstops and drive around all day like that, but your BJ's and CV's will die pretty quickly (particularly with off-road use). 2" of front-end lift is acceptable. Just make sure you have at least 1/2" between the UCA and the upper bumpstop and it gets re-aligned afterwards.

I've heard one other case like this being caused by a shot bronze distributor gear or worn cam driving gear... Other than that, wow. Wierdness. All I can say is K.I.S.S. and try the very simplest things first... I dunno.

You can try this...worked for me, at least somewhat. I used 400 grit sandpaper, tore it into a thin strip, then fed it under the seatbelt under and back out of the hanger, then you just grip the sandpaper along with the seatbelt and run it back and forth through the hanger using the belt to stroke it back and forth. Removes 99% of the built-up crap on the hanger and makes the belt slide much smoother through on it's way in and out.

Well, you have to remove the axle, which involves removing many other parts first...

What's your other Pathy for, then? Hm? hehe

When you get them on rims and the weight of the vehicle is on them, they'll compress a little bit. Don't worry about it. If they rub in the front, crank up your torsion bars about three turns.

You're welcome. Like the paint color and all?

That's kinda funny you mention that, cause most Wal-Marts actually HAVE a gourmet Wal-Mart Edition McDonalds inside now...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...itemnumber=3980 $10.99, coil spring compressors

$135 for a diagnostic is extremely excessive. All he has to do is run the ECU error codes with an OBDIII scanner. Five minutes worth of work for $135? I don't think so. You can get the same service free at AutoZone or Schucks/CSK Auto, try that first. Ask if you can get a free scan of the ECU codes at the counter. That's how cheap it is and how much you're getting ripped off if you pay that much for diagnostics...

I pulled my rear anchors. You don't have to drop the crossmember to do it, it just takes some finagling to get the anchor off the t-bar. Remember there's a c-clip on the end of the t-bar before you can take the anchor off. Then the anchor will come off and slide out of the crossmember. DEFINITELY mark both the t-bar and the anchor as to which spline is which before you take them apart. Rotate two or three splines (I'd say 3), then slide the anchor back onto the t-bar and reassemble after cleaning the bolts and everything.

I have some 3/4" reinforced rubber mat available, so I cut out two rubber donuts to space the top and bottom of the springs. Works fine. That's about a 1.5" spacer height amount...with the amount the ends of the springs sink into the rubber, I'd say about 1" tops.

Bend the EGR tube so the fitting on the end fits better.

Awww, thanks. And I thought only my GF called me that.