88pathoffroad

You can transplant a Chevy MC on there for a LOT more brake line pressure. I hear it works great.

Same kinda thing...

I've got stories about Firestone.... Went in for new drums on a bucket truck, they installed 'em without test driving the truck, both drums were WAY out of round and required removal and replacement. When I stepped on the brakes it about vibrated my teeth out...and they're full-float rear axle drums with studs in them, not little slip-on ones. Different bucket truck, needed an EGR valve replaced. Truck came back with a new EGR, but also leaking coolant visibly from a heater core hose, the air cleaner lid was HALF ON with the nut screwed down tight. (old round-style Chevy aircleaner) Had to fix that one myself because we were leaving town. Little bro's S-10 Blazer went in for alignment. All they needed to do was adjust the UCA cam bolts and re-camber it, maybe change the toe a little. They sent him home with the front tires still visibly off-camber, said they couldn't get it back into spec. They didn't even try, I checked the bolts. Still covered in grime and dirt. No wrench ever touched those bolts. I don't mean to be too harsh about this, OR99.5Speed. Sorry if I came off too accusatory. Those Firestone people piss me off.

You can still poke the rad with a stick at the right angle, which will thoroughly ruin your day...

It's either the wiring under the hood at the distributor, or it's a bad tach. My money's on bad tach. They seem to do that sometimes.

OMG, you went to Firestone for vehicle work? That in and of itself is asking for trouble. Those people couldn't fix an unscrewed nut if it fell off and landed IN the proper size wrench in front of them. GO back to Firestone and kick some ass. It's only obvious they underfilled it, if they even put any in at all. ...I can't believe your oil light flashed and it started audibly ticking and you still drove around on it like nothing was wrong. That's insane, man. It was probably smoking because it had no oil and what was left in the oilpan was fuming up.

Needs more protection...your radiator is gonna take a beating....

There's a giant difference between a 2" BL and a 1.5" SL. The SL only alters the ride height at a standstill, when you go over bumps the tires still come just as close to the fenderwells as at stock height with this IFS system. With a 2" BL, it's always got 2" of tire clearance, no change in front due to wheel travel.

Further kudos to Statikuz and Mr. Pickles for some cash they sent earlier, I sincerely appreciate it, guys. What goes around comes around.

Yeah, bolt the new BJ's onto the UCA's, then install 'em. If you need longer spindle bolts to get the alignment right, I have some I found locally at a bolt shop. They're pretty hard to find and kinda spendy, $5 each...but that's all we got. Heh.

As long as I run this forum, it will remain a free membership forum. I believe the current forum software is a bit too limited for me to easily split up permissions levels and paid members tiers, it needs upgrading. Plus...I always hated trying to find something on the web and then finding out it cost money and you had to get a membership. IMHO, if it's on the internet, it should be a collaborative community effort supported by as many enthusiasts as possible and the info should be shared because we want to keep as many Pathfinder owners on the road as possible! Wouldn't it be cool to one day have a NPORA meet and see miles of Pathfinders of all years cruising down a mountain road? *gasps for breath* By the way, I'd like to thank three very kind people that sent me some money the other day: MaritimeMan, headpeace, and WithTheBackOfMyHand. headpeace not only sent me a few bucks, he sent me a cable modem! Thank you all very much. I'll pay you back one way or the other, you wait and see. And if anyone wants to help me out with a few bucks, my Paypal address is 88pathoffroad@gmail.com. That's my personal account.

*gives B a noogie while he's not looking* Allright, allright, I relent. Getting my intarweb acksess back would be a uber cool thing. Actually, headpeace(Aaron W the second!) is sending me his old cable modem to use! Alls I need to do is wait for my next paycheck to come in on the first and I can get teh intarweb back.

Obviously you have a bad short in your wiring. The water prolly moved the wiring harness around enough to cause a bad section to short out somewhere. The first thing to do is crawl under there and start checking the wiring. Then pull the carpet back inside the cargo area, take off the floor access panel and make sure it's all good on top of the tank. If you know how to use a multimeter or wire tester, use that.

Nope, no such setup on the Pathfinder tranny. Slick, a slow drip is normal for exhaust. The exhaust cools down a LOT after leaving the engine (hence the condensation of water vapor) and the higher flow rate of your new exhaust allows more surface area and a straighter path for condensation to exit the exhaust. I wouldn't worry about it unless you see green drips coming out the tailpipe. Pull your O2 sensor and clean it. Pull your MAF sensor and clean it. Make sure the connections on the cylinder head temp sensor and the dash gauge temp sensors are tight. All these things can make your engine run rich and give you poor gas mileage. KISS, eh?

OK, OK, OK, we get the point. This is not another Post Whore thread. Vsicks: I'm all for making things easy for newbies and making sure the info stays out there to be used by anyone, but common sense is to be expected when trying to find information. People can ask, then be pointed to the specified thread they need by whoever knows the info...or they can SEARCH. OK?

ONCE AGAIN, rear Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 coils are SHORTER than the fronts. The boss is wrong or has a different vehicle if they're longer in the rear. Actually, only ZJ's and Wranglers have coils front and rear, so that narrows down the selection. Do not use standard Cherokee 6-cyl front springs, they will not give you any lift. You can keep the stock shocks on, but they'll top out and eventually they'll pop a seal from it. Get replacement shocks for the rear that are between 22 and 25 inches long fully extended, like a pair of Rancho RS5112's.

Possibly, you should have mentioned that first.

Oh, fer cryin out loud. Allright, whatever. But you made your point a long time ago, OK?

I'm only back until my GF goes home with the cable modem, actually.

1. From the center of the hub inside the wheel to the bottom edge of the fender or fender flare. Actually, it doesn't really matter. Just make consistent measurements if you want accurate results. The front end sags more than the rear because it's both heavier and subjected to more side-loading when turning, and torsion bars tend to sag after a while anyway. A good even stance is what I recommend the torsion bars be adjusted to maintain. 2. They can be pressed out with a hydraulic press or drilled out and re-fitted carefully with new pins. Have you tried soaking the hinge pins in penetrating lubricant and then working the carrier back and forth through a full range of motion to see if it loosens up? You might be surprised at what a good workout can do for rusty hinges. 3. I'd just let a stereo shop take care of installing a stereo if you've never done it before. There's a bit of wiring to do there, but if you're comfy with that feel free to ask specifics. 4. Everything inside pops off or unscrews with a fairly obvious screw or bolt. Snaps and clips hold all the panels and headliner trim on. I don't know if the ceiling panels will have speaker mounts in them if your other Pathy doesn't have them there already though...so make sure before taking anything apart too far. Hope that helps.

Passenger's side rear side panel in the cargo area under the side window. Gold-colored metal box with two wiring harness plugs and three mounting bolts.

The "service" AC is selling there is simply them sending your ECU to Jim Wolf Technologies for reprogramming. Go to http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/ for more options. It may be cheaper to go directly through JWT instead.

*shrug* That's just how it is right now. I dunno if Jim even remembers his PW for the hosting account or not, but I can call and ask. Sorry for the negativity earlier, I got up on the wrong side of the peace pipe or something.

Very true. I think if it's going to be done, we should designate a Paypal account for general donations, then decide what needs to go where, like, for instance...the Faith Wheelers trip in Washington that no-one showed up to two years running. Prizes? Fix-its? I dunno. Whatever we ALL decide, and I'd need more than 35 votes to decide on it.

Yeah, throw out bearing for the clutch. Sometimes they last a while, sometimes they don't. If it starts getting louder, get ready to replace your clutch...it'd be worthless to just replace the bearing unless your clutch is brand new already.