88pathoffroad

The voltage regulator only runs the fuel and temp gauges, guys. Go read the FAQ's. If you ONLY have a speedo/odo problem, it's more likely to be the speed sensor on the tranny, don't you think?

Harbor Freight Tools used to sell a tool for that. It was #45407, "Pulley Removal Wrench". It was a 24" long steel-handled bar with a v-belt that ran out the handle and back in after you loop it around the pulley. Use one of those if you can get one. Alternately, try a strap wrench if it's strong enough.

Not to interrupt, but most quick-change places do charge extra to remove non-factory skidplates for normal maintenance. I worked for a Jiffy Lube where it was $15 extra, IIRC.

Check your rear swaybar end links, rear axle lower and upper control arms, and the panhard rod. Something's loose either from wear or from something else.

What do you need a spring compressor for? Simply remove the panhard rod end, one swaybar endlink, then the shocks and lower the axle down until the springs fall out. New springs pop in the exact same way. Takes me like 20 minutes to do.

1. I still have stock torsion bars. I'd rather have them flex than not, and they've worked fine for me so far. The 30% stiffer bars don't flex worth beans. Once again, the torsion bars alone do not lift the truck. The act of cranking up the tension on the torsion bars is what creates a suspension lift. 2. New upper control arms are recommended, but not entirely necessary unless you really want to go that extra little bit and change more stuff out. 3. 4 new shocks would be good, yes. The front shocks should be left stock length regardless of the amount of IFS lift, though. The front suspension travel does not change with an IFS lift, only the ride height and stiffness. (Especially if you leave the swaybar on.) A set of 3" longer shocks are recommended for the rear to make use of the additional suspension travel supplied by new longer/higher spring rate coil springs. Yes, I still have stock-length Rancho shocks on the front of mine. 4. Simply keep up on your steering component inspection, get an idler arm brace and supplement that with a steering stabilizer for a fairly rugged setup that should keep your steering happy for the time being. Tie rods, idler arms, and centerlinks do wear out, however, so don't expect everything to survive regardless of anything you throw at it. 5. Yeah yeah yeah. n00b's keep on coming, whatcha gonna do?

Only if you plan on doing some severe-duty offroading in 4LO... Wait till those 33's suck the power and mileage out of your Pathy, you'll need even more mods.

I advise you to do what you want with it. Ask specific questions regarding things you want to know about or use the search function. It's not that hard. You didn't really ask any questions that I can answer for you.

It's funny how uninformed people try to make money on Ebay...note that he's offering to give a free bike with it just to make the deal that much sweeter...wow, a $250 bike to go with the $15,000 '89 Pathfinder. What a deal! dumbass...

The 200SX LSD doesn't fit, the output shaft collars or something else are completely different. Won't work AFAIK. The 300ZX LSD does, but you DO NOT want the VLSD (viscous limited slip diff, came in the pearl white SS edition models), because it doesn't work under load the same way as a clutch-and-plate type LSD. The quoted years for 300ZX diffs is right, from 4/87-89.

I can do that. Done and done. Look in the Garage section for your new diesel discussion forum.

Depending on where the fire is originating, the gas will boil inside the tank, overpressurize the filler hose and then start puking fumes out the filler hose, which will catch on fire rather quickly, burning the hose and letting the gas boil over unhindered.

I think that listing was an error. Perhaps they were thinking Hard Body instead. That's a stocker with painted flares is all. The red one was more like it, they made a full front bumper and airdam setup for the Pathy sometime, but if all you do to make it a "widebody" is change the fender flares, then mine's a widebody too. .

If my Pathy engine got fooked up like yours because of a Firestone problem, first I'd get a lawyer. Then I'd go back to the Firestone I went to , back it up to the first open bay, put it in Neutral and floor it. Let 'em eat smoke. Bastards. Honestly, I don't know why you're not looking into suing Firestone. You seem content to just lie there and take it up the butt while they caused thousands of dollars worth of damage to your truck by not doing the maintenance properly...

I dunno. Did he?

The BDS kit is an example of a company not knowing how to properly lift an adjustable IFS suspension. You should have replacement UCA's if you want the upper BJ's to live trouble-free.

Good points Vsicks, I just mean that the TB spacer by itself is no miracle worker...don't expect any seat-of-the-pants power gains from adding one by itself. I bet 99.9% of the power gains on the Jeep in the test you gave a link to was from the new complete air intake. I bet if they took off the spacer it'd still dyno the same.

Eh, do what you like, I just really don't go for the whole "exposed guts" look on the most important and delicate bits on the front end of the vehicle.

I got a disc brake MC from the JY a few days ago, gonna see what the FSM says about line pressures and see if I can just plug and play that baby to get the drums working better. Mine suck, always have. I'd LOVE to have better brakes. On another note, now all I need is the backing plates or a pair of whole axles off a disc rear to swap mine out.

All I gotta say is I want to see definite increases on repeated dyno results on at least two different vehicles that says a TB spacer does ONE thing for power. I don't think they do crap. There's no reason for them to. There's no physics there. Ask a physicist if the nearside upper intake volume being increased by a cylindrical 1 inch spacer should make ONE bit of difference in the engine's production of power. The answer is no, it's not enough of a difference to make up for the cost. They'd sell those for 39 cents if they only went by the amount of power they supposedly help create... Just my 2 cents worth. Can anyone dig up the science that supposedly makes TB spacers work? Let's see it.

Did the oil filter get changed for sure at Firestone? If they just drained the oil for a short while, plugged it and let it go with the old filter on it still, it could concievably have up to a quart of oil left in the block/passages/oil pump, but the chance is slim...

I think that's right. Pathys all have ten body mounts, and they're fairly securely built. Older trucks with larger bodies and of course 20 years worth of road salt, etc on the underbody parts are of COURSE worse to body lift just for the reasons already stated. On the Pathy in most cases it's not an unsafe idea. I've never heard of any body lift failures on any Nissan of any sort. Except my buddy Steve-O, who nose-dived his Pathy over a sand dune and shifted the entire body forward so the bolts were at angles... O.o Thanks for the input on the BL vs SL topic, Vsicks. Good points all.

You'd have better luck finding a whole used gauge cluster than trying to find just the tach unless you want to order one from a dealership.

UCA bushings will squeak over bumps and when turning the steering wheel if they're in squeaky enough shape. Mine did once. Drove me nuts. I have grease fittings installed though, so I greased 'em and it quit.

Either that or one of your swaybar end links may be loose or broken.