88pathoffroad

Yes. Lemme see if I can find the PN...

You can get generic bolt-on polyurethane or rubber bumpstops from an offroad shop, sure. Just measure to make sure they're the right height. There are two sets of front bumpstops for both the lower and upper control arms, both are replaceable with aftermarket bumpstops is needed. Daystar and Energy Suspension both make polyurethane bumpstops you can use. I have a spare pair of rear stock bumpstops if you want them. They're in great shape, like new. Asking $30 plus shipping. I doubt it'll exceed $7.70 with USPS fixed-rate shipping, they might even fit into a $5.90 box.

Why would a body lift affect the axle-to frame bumpstop clearance? I assert once again that it is not a good idea to drive around without them, but it's not necessarily gonna cause any problems for street driving.

They dampen movement in both directions equally, so it absorbs sudden shocks from the steering and helps keep the wheel from jerking around when you hit potholes, logs, trees, rocks, etc.

Actually, I think you'll be hard-pressed to find anyone with a stock SS on their Pathfinder. It was a rare option. The pin uses the steering box bolts to attach to the frame IIRC, and hopefully the new stabilizer comes with a bolt and nut? Heh. If not, whatever fits...get a grade 8 bolt and nut for safety's sake.

Try a Nissan dealership.

You could try looking in the How-To section in the Garage...

Maybe your lever was bent to begin with and it just works that way. Heh. DO NOT PUT A PIPE ON YOUR SHIFTER AND ATTEMPT TO BEND IT WHILE IT IS STILL INSTALLED IN YOUR VEHICLE. Jesus, vengeful. There are noob's out there, don't tell them to do stuff like that. Somebody'll end up breaking something or getting hurt that way. When I did mine: I took out the shifter, trimmed a notch out of the floor and carpet at the front of the console, then heated up and bent the shifter forward and a little left so it fit just right. When I did Rami's: I took it out, cut the shifter in half, lengthened the shifter (welded on a sleeve) so it was about 2.5" taller, then bent it a little to get it just right. Here's a picture.

Yeah, it's that easy. I took a couple apart in the junkyard a long time ago and it finally dawned on me that that was how I took the damn brackets out in the first place. I don't want one anymore, personally. I think my Pathy is quite heavy enough and it doesn't need another 150-200 lbs hanging off the extreme rear end of it. Last truck scale I went past said 4400 lbs with no spare, half-tank of gas, and me in it. I weigh 180 lbs.

If you've replaced everything BUT the proportioning valve and it still has a problem, what does that tell you?

Yeah, getcha one of these: Or one of these: They work great. Tighten that puppy down then tap on the end of the tie rod or the CL. BANG and out it comes. I've used mine on dozens of tie rod ends both at home and in the junkyard. Works every time.

Why don't you just take one bulb out, go into the nearest auto parts store and find a match? Last I checked, the lightbulb aisle was open territory to walk into. Then you'd have the right number to look up, at least.

They are fairly important, yes. If you were to hit a big enough bump and cause the axle to hit the frame, it might break the axlehousing or damage it in some other way with no bumpstops on the rear axle.

By the way, here's a pic of the complete L&P steering system, except for the idler arm brace. I made that.

First off on the steering subject, the L&P CL is a great piece to start with. It only gets stronger from there with the upgraded idler arm and brace, and if you haven't yet, add a steering stabilizer for even better control. To install the L&P centerlink, you will need to drill your idler arm and pitman arm straight through (drillpress style) so the bolt won't move when you bolt on the new CL. Some people take theirs off and take them to a metal fabrication shop for that, others just get a bench vise and drill and carefully drill it out. 1. Sounds like saggy coils to me. Is there already a lot of junk in your trunk? Clean out your Pathy! 2. I just so happened to find a pair of rear RS9000's in the junkyard, so I still have my old 5000's in front. That's my story. I dunno about anyone else. 3. For the front, yes. In the rear, if you want more flex than stock you'll want slightly longer shocks. If not, then stock size is fine.

It could be that the dealership didn't get the fluid level right after the service and it's simply been low for two years.

Nissan has a kit that allows you to install a stock external tire carrier on any Pathfinder. It costs around $50 IIRC and can be installed fairly easily. There are no known aftermarket external tire carriers that bolt on the same way as stock ones do. Also, tire carriers were highly optional. It doesn't matter what trim level your Pathfinder is (XE, LE, SE, E), it could have one installed if you wanted it. I figured out how to get the brackets inside the body... Remove the taillight on that side. Sorry for the confusion. It's totally possible to install one on a Pathy that didn't have one to begin with.

Just so you know...SOHC 300ZX VG30E cams are the exact same as Pathy VG30E cams.

It is the exact same casting, same internals, same heads, cams, everything. Just the intake and possibly the crank snout is different. They didn't make different VG30 blocks for different cars, that wouldn't make any economic sense.

PLEASE READ AGAIN.

You don't need springs to compare. The stock WD21 coils are 4" diameter, 16" tall. Are your R50 rear springs anything near that?

The upper intake and a few sensors. It's the exact same otherwise.

Heh, this is as far as stock IFS flexes...

Slick, where do you get this idea that since he replaced his shocks, the coils are automatically busted? Jeez. Please clarify: are the tires rubbing in front or rear? Your options are: Trim the fender flares with a utility knife. Remove the flares and hope the tires don't rub on the sheetmetal. Install a body lift or suspension lift.

They work fine, and if installed correctly they do not bleed off at all. We had one on a bucket truck (line truck, actually, over 50K lbs) and it held the truck on inclines all day long while we worked out of it.