88pathoffroad

I always leave the jack in place AFTER setting jackstands. Who wants their head crushed for no good reason?

If everything else battery operated still works, then it's most likely the starter. Secondary causes can be the ignition switch or the starter switched (trigger) wire possibly coming loose or being corroded. Mine went out on me shortly after starting to click and/or slowly turn over...worn-out brushes were the cause and were a $7 fix, but I rebuilt it myself.

ALL your bulbs would most likely be popping if it was from overvoltage.

My brother has a Ranger. I've had to work on it. A lot. Don't buy a Ranger unless you really want it...

Have the tranny fluid tested to see if they used GL-5 AND if they underfilled it, because of the case design having the fill hole located too low. Both things could kill it depending on overall condition. The only thing that should go into a Nissan Pathfinder manual tranny is GL-4.

Aha! See? Other people figure stuff out too. Apparently the I6 and V8 springs are the same and will both work fine in a Pathfinder after modifying the top coil.

Vsicks, obviously you have an answer he doesn't see. Quit poking him and trying to make a point and spit it out.

Sticky shift solenoids are fairly common. That's probably what's causing your "phenomenon". Fixing that requires removal of the tranny pan and the valvebody (I think) to access the shift solenoids. I don't have the diagram in front of me, though. Have you changed the tranny fluid yet? Public Service Notice: The stock transmission cooler is known to clog and cause tranny fluid overheating of Pathfinders with automatic transmissions, which makes them DIE. A replacement, aftermarket, high-capacity, external fluid cooler is HIGHLY recommended.

It's simple wiring logistics. They both go on the same fused circuit because they both need to come on at the same time for the same reason, when you turn the switch on.

Once again, NO. A twin turbo V6 will not fit into a Pathfinder without major engine bay modifications and turbo relocation. This question gets asked a million times, I'm surprised you haven't seen it asked yet.

FWIW, 2-doors and 4-doors have the same wheelbase and overall length. AND THERE HAS NEVER BEEN A CARBURETED PATHFINDER! They're all either TBI or MPFI. Why do you think there's an ECU under the seat?

As long as the surface is level it shouldn't really matter...

So punch another hole in your firewall. Or use an existing rubber grommet and just poke a hole in that. There's lots of room down there.

It sounds like a good idea to me if it really works, but why don't we see fuel preheaters on semi trucks and commercial diesel engines already if it's such an effective modification?

Offroaders with solid axles do not use swaybars(stabilizer bar), because they limit flex. Flex is what keeps your tires in contact with the ground and keeps you moving with the most traction available to you at that moment. Flex is a very good thing for offroading. Stock vehicles with IFS OR solid axles have swaybars to keep the suspension from flexing too much. Because who wants to have your coffee spilled on you when turning onto an onramp for the freeway because your vehicle's body rolled like a tipsy cow? The flatter your vehicle stays around corners and turns, the better for street driving. That's why most vehicles come with them and keep them installed. Swaybar disconnects are a good thing! You can keep your street-driving capability and stability and yet unplug one pin and have all the flex for offroading you can get out of it. Making your own is cheaper than buying new, but not many people have the skill and equipment to do so. Get it now?

Back on topic, please...

Packie88: that's not how they engineered it, it just happens that both lights are on the same fuse, so when it pops you have no lights on either end. It's either a fuse or a switch problem. If the fuse is still tested good for continuity with an ohmmeter or voltmeter, then the switch is the next thing to look at. Do your brake lights still work?

Yeah, CV's should spin either direction with the t-case in 2WD (and if you have manual hubs, they should be unlocked). Basically when it's in 2WD, the front diff is in Neutral unless the hubs are locked, which would just spin the front diff and driveshaft as you drive and add to the drivetrain drag.

Well, we can see which cylinder had the popped head gasket at least...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Nissan-Pathfinder-Terr...1QQcmdZViewItem Just thought I'd share.

Sweet deal, Pat! That should be a great runner when it's done. Rebuild parts would include gaskets of course, rod bearings, rings and maybe a new oil pump, t-belt parts, etc. Depends on what the engine in question needs, I'm sure Pat can get it all together.

Yeah yeah yeah...PIAAs are teh shiznit.

There's a bulb in there and it should work to illuminate the controls just fine. Mine does. Note: the plastic face pulls off after you pull the switch knobs off. It snaps into place.

Headers give a very decent power boost and aren't THAT bad to install. It's just the EGR bung that gives people trouble. Bend the stock EGR line a little and it should match up just fine, AFAIH. The deal with bolts is just that they're cheaper and just as effective. Get grade 8.8 or higher, though. Don't use grade 5 bolts, they might not like the heat cycling they'll be put through.

Harbor Freight grinders work fine for me. Had two of 'em for going on two-three years and they still work great. They even come with replacement brushes for the motor. Oh, and a sub-$400 welder is allright if it's a Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 like mine. I can't find anything wrong with it and it's been through a full 25 lb spool of wire, working on the next! Do what you can, buy what you can afford, and take everything with a grain of salt. Above all, have fun making your own stuff!