88pathoffroad

Um, a body lift has exactly squat to do with frame and suspension alignment. Take it to a different mechanic in the future.

Just for backup lights, or do they make dual-filament bulbs for brake lights? I already have the 50W backup light bulbs. They work great and have lasted for years with the little amount of use they get.

The earth is ever changing. In ten years none of the tire marks will remain and nobody will cry over the rocks your rubber tires drove over. It's the silliest thing I've ever heard..."you're hurting the mountain!"

Sometimes the ends are tapered to fit the seats better, that's all. Cool beans, it's good to know you got the right ones. Get ready for lots of rear end lift!

I'm not trying to be cool, I'm trying to get people to use common sense and do things themselves instead of asking everyone else for advice/pics/a complete write-up on How To Remove Side Step Bars, you know? There are about three steps. It's fairly simple stuff. Pay attention. One: get under the Pathy. Two: use the appropriate tool to remove the bolts holding on the bar. Three: stand back and open your eyes. Evaluate what you see. Do you like it? If so, repeat on the other side. That's about it... Also, it's spelled "you're". Thank you.

1. Might be the contacts inside the steering wheel. Take off the center cover and have a look. That's wierd that it works with the key off but not with it on. 2. Brake booster 3. Check the wiring connector at the MC for corrosion, that's the fluid level light switch. If it got brake fluid on it it may be screwed up a bit. Your ABS sensor is located on the rear axle at the front on top of the centersection. Only thing on the axle with wiring going to it. Make sure the wiring's good and the connector's tight, etc. Oh, and the brake light is supposed to come on when you pull the e-brake. 4. Checked the insides of your wheels? Might be mud or something sticking to a surface you can't see that unbalances 'em...but then again if they've been balanced recently and it still does it, nevermind. How's your steering? Loose, tight? A steering stabilizer will help the vibes a LOT if you don't have one already. Another thing to think about is that maybe one auto hub is sticking and spinning the CV/front diff/driveshaft for you, which might cause vibes at highway speeds. Make sure the front driveshaft is greased.

Yeah, apparently they suck. Lee from L&P recommends Fel-Pro gaskets.

The Halo 1157's are nice, but spendy. Anything less won't make you happy, as others have said. The problem with generic LED bulb replacements is the focus. A regular bulb will spray light inside the housing pretty brightly and evenly. The LED replacements are usually just pointing straight ahead, so only a little light goes through the lens in a straight line...which doesn't fill the lens with light like a standard bulb does. A simple answer to the fast flash of turn signals is to replace your flasher with an electronic model instead of a thermal one. Done, fixed, no more fast flash. Also, regular 1157/etc bulbs aren't halogen, they're usually filled with argon just like regular home light bulbs.

Did you feel like asking how? Or searching the net for info? There's a lot out there for free.

I think you'll have to set backlash, etc if you want to change carriers internally. Get a Lock-Right and never have to rebuild it again! The LSD will eventually wear out. What year Pathy did the new diffs come from anyway? They had several different revisions internally. Different bolt patterns, etc.

Where are you measuring at anyway? Don't do it on the end, use the middle of any coil for a proper measurement.

Good luck finding a junkyard that'll let you even touch a 00+ Nissan without someone watching you every second. Heh. Newer cars are like gold to junkyards. Most charge near dealership prices for parts from what I've seen.

WTF...you people mystify me. Just take the damn things off and see how it looks. Jeez. Like it makes that much difference.

Headers and new pipes with proper hangers is about all you need. Perhaps the last shop did some shady work on it and didn't say anything.

Rev the engine a little when you start it and see if it comes on. My Quest alternator wouldn't kick on until the engine went higher than 1800 RPM's at startup because the plug on the back wasn't plugged in, which kicks it on automatically. Make sure the plug in the back of the alternator is pushed all the way in and is tight.

Stock Nissan springs are .50". Your "JGC springs" are apparently even weaker than stock ones. Ouch. I'd take 'em back.

HAHAHAHAHAHA!!

Not when you give it hell in 4LO with 33's up a rock-studded hill, they won't. People break engine mounts all the time. Ask Rami.

Jeez, $900 for tires? My 33x13.50's were like $690 mounted and balanced.

Offhand, I'd say the dealership. Get ready to fork over a bundle if you want to keep the stock stereo.

Mine never had one and my rear brakes still suck. It's safe to toss it out if you can find a way to loop the lines together again afterwards.

Why would you pay someone to check your timing? A timing light is like $25 and it takes all of ten minutes to do.

$173 EACH? Jeez. I don't like how they don't have the specs listed, either. I'd like to see specifics.

Did he re-ring the pistons for you while it was out?

I can rock my Pathy back and forth by grabbing the Yak rack and shaking. That thing should be tight, if not the tower feet might be vibrating a bit, which isn't good cause that'll wear your paint off.