88pathoffroad

Plywood works fine. I have some 1x2' steel plate I use sometimes.

The crank angle sensor also fires the injectors, in case you didn't know.

Here you go. Comparison of stock UCA, AC UCA, and Superlift UCA. Note that the AC UCA does not have angled balljoint mounting surface like the SL UCA does. AC UCA's have poor fit. Heh, try getting these to work out of the box.

The O2 sensor will not cause misfiring. That's an ignition or fuel delivery problem. On plug wires, I generally just change 'em every 30-50K miles regardless, silicone and rubber breaks down under the heat and will eventually crack and arc out somewhere. The lower the resistance the better, AFAIK. Plug wire sets generally run from $35-55 for generic and more like $50-$75 for aftermarket.

Wow, you guys are good. You scared Vsicks off. Er...well... disgusted him off at least. I've rebuilt my CV axles twice and they still work allright. All it takes is the time and place to work in. It's a fairly simple job. Remanned CV's generally run between $100 and $150 for one side complete, and get this: they're the same on either side. The picture with half a missing CV boot looks fairly well hosed, I'd get that replaced before trying to go offroading and beating on it again... The wobbly CL and tie rods on Harbinger's Pathy are probably what's causing it to steer funny in 4WD. Mine did that very badly before I got the L&P steering. I wouldn't blame the steering box unless it makes noises or starts leaking. I have two good CV axles for a 90-95 Pathy for sale ATM, actually...See my post in the For Sale section.

I'm going to go with bolts on mine when I get headers. Bolts with two lock washers, two sets of gaskets and a kiss goodbye to ticking manifolds!

They're KYB GR-2 aftermarket shocks, and the dampening factor is not a problem, they work fine for me.

S10's have drive flanges, not hubs. Pathfinders have hubs. It is safe to shift into 4HI up to 45 MPH AFAIK, done it before on the beach. 4LO requires stopping and putting the trans into neutral first.

You know that fuel additive costs more than you're saving, right? The best way to save gas is to go with the smallest size tire you can get away with, run the tires at maximum pressure, go VERY easy on the gas, and drive 65-75 max on the freeway. Drive as little as possible and combine trips around town. That's about it.

That's my rock bar/anchor point tool. It's a 1" cast steel utility pole anchor with the end cut to a chisel point for moving rocks, logs, etc on the trail. In the sand, you can pound it all the way down and use it to winch yourself out, unless you're really dug in bad.

Well, the NA ones from 90-95 have the same VG30E but with different FI setup and ECU. The 86-89's had VG30E's while 86-89 Pathys have VG30i's. Same block up till they went to a DOHC design for the Z32 line. I don't know that much about 300ZX's tho.

You guys...don't you remember that automatics have 4.625 gears, while manuals got 4.375? And it's 233mm on the ring gear...

The CC on 95's has an electronic solenoid instead of a vaccuum diaphragm, IIRC.

The deal with the AC UCA's is poor fitment and finish, as well as not correcting BJ angles for the amount of lift they advertise for their UCA's. I've had a pair and the Rough Country/Superlift UCA's are superior in every way. Geordie: it's expensive to have them shipped to you, yes...but it only costs them $25 in steel and 1/2 hour's work to weld 'em up on a jig in the US. Is it any wonder they were a bit rough?

The more oil is in the system, the cooler it can run and better it can lubricate, especially on cold starts. Better filtration via having more filter element inside is a gimmie, it helps protect the engine. It's not about oil pressure, it's about capacity and filtration.

Doesn't matter. They'll both do the same job. If one has more options that you desire, get that one instead of the base model.

It could be a crappy connection on the ABS sensor on the rear axle. Try wiggling or cleaning it, maybe. The ABS sensor is the only thing with wiring going to it on the front top side of your rear axle. Should be right above where the driveshaft bolts to the rear axle pinion flange.

Very true. They didn't tell you that at the dealership? It'll improve slightly as the engine fully breaks in and gets all nice and smoothed out. I wouldn't expect to break 20, though.

In other words Jay, there's probably something in your blower fan. Remove it and clean it out. It's pretty easy to get to under the passenger's side of the dash.

He's right...a TB spacer only helps after you do every other performance mod you can to the engine, including porting and polishing the intake and heads. If there were a big difference from using one on a stock vehicle, we'd see 'em on everybody's car, not just marketed as a "Gain 2 HP With This Amazing New Product" crap.

I have a Warn XD9000i that I got used. It's not mounted yet. Gotta build a winch bumper.

#1, it's not a car. It's a truck. Drive it as such. It weighs just over four thousand pounds. No car since the 70's has weighed that much. Is it any wonder it sways when you have no swaybars? #2, Calmini's not known for their problem-free designs. You oughta see how many people with XTerras and Frontiers are having terrible problems with their steering kits. The idler arm bushings wear out and then Calmini makes everybody buy new ones, only to have them get sloppy again...

Brake fluid does not evaporate, just for the record...

All I have to say is, good lord man. Damn. And what's a drive belt? You mean the timing belt?

Have you got the tie rods adjusted right? I haven't heard of any swaybar problems, it shouldn't interfere with it. FWIW, I've heard that the tie rod adjusters get kinda wacky when you get the alignment right...one is all the way out, one is all the way in.