88pathoffroad

Quite honestly, this is one of the silliest things I've heard all year. Have you tried opening the hatch, pulling off the cover and LOOKING AT IT yet? Jeez.

What do you mean, "the screw was too big"? Does the new sensor screw in or not? If not, get one that does. KISS...I'm gonna laugh at you if you spend $115 to replace a $10 sensor that you can do yourself.

Meh. I don't like that font at all. Looks like cartoon letters.

It should have two twisted brackets that go inside the front bumper and bolt to the frame, and two brackets that go down below in the tow hook holes. Unless it bolts to the old-style 87-89 bumper mount bolts alone like mine does.

Get some light in there so you can see it. Clean it off. It should be fairly obvious how it comes off after that...

This is NOT the forum to ask questions in. This is the forum to post good or bad experiences about products or companies, get it? That's why it's called the "Product Reviews" forum...

I've heard good things about Hi-Tec Retreading. Good prices, decent tire life and tread pattern, and BFG carcasses for the sidewalls...woohoo!

No O'Reilly's here either. D'oh.

Usually you have to drop the exhaust crossover pipe to get the pan off. It won't come off cause it's wedged above the t-case crossmember and the exhaust. Newer Pathys with the VG30E sometimes come with a tranny pan drain plug, but I doubt yours has one. Synthetic tranny fluid is best, but spendy. Dexron III is the type to use. It will take about 10 US quarts(I think, don't have the FSM in front of me) for a complete fluid change(torque converter and tranny/pan). Um...have fun? Heh.

Hey, I wonder if there's any benefit to running a JDM intake like the one on there. That's nothing like the regular VG30E US-issue intake. o.o If you want to get rid of that intake and FI setup, let me know. I wouldn't mind having that to play with.

I've got a front grille you can have, B. It's Rami's old one with a few cracks in it, but hey.

Portal axles are HEAVY. Like, over 1000 lbs heavy. Not a good choice if you stick with the stock engine. A Dana 44 front axle is a good choice because it's relatively lightweight, strong enough to handle the weight of the vehicle and common enough to be able to get cheap parts for. Thing is, D44's were made in different widths and with different steering, spring setups, brakes, axles...heh. A Wagoneer front axle is a good choice because it's fairly common, the centersection is on the driver's side just like on the stock IFS, and the width is almost the exact same as the IFS setup.

All I've got to say is, a flashing LED costs about $4 and deters most thievery. If you keep expensive stuff in plain view in your car and have no alarm, you're asking for it to get ripped off.

Yes, but only from a V6 HB. The 4-cylinder engine and tranny are different.

The one on the tranny is a reverse light switch, IIRC.

Sounds like you need a new cap and rotor. I'd replace 'em. By the way, I have a set of the stock Infinity carbon-fiber 5x7's in my van and they work great!

I may be exaggerating a bit cause I never did weigh that thing. Ask MaritimeMan, he bought the one I had and he knows how heavy they are. The plates inside on a Pathy that came with a carrier were spot-welded to the sheetmetal. What I'm gonna do is weld up a roof rack out of 1/2" electrical conduit or something similar and just put 'er up there with a plexiglass fairing on front like the Yak rack fairing. More room for stickers! And more PIAA lights!

Dan, it's not that bad to top it off a little so the light goes off. Whoever changes the pads next will need to bleed them enough to not matter anyway.

In the US, MOST manuals came with 4.3, MOST autos came with 4.6. They never offered 4.8's in the US unless it came on a 1-ton dually model or something. Mine is an auto with 4.625's, open rear diff, front discs with two-piston calipers and rear drums.

Sounds like your ECU took a voltage spike and is shot. You'll probably need another one.

The heat will be present regardless of whether or not the cooler is plugged up. Heat rises, there are many very hot things under there and it's only natural to have hot air coming through a ripped boot, especially when it's being forced through while you're driving.

You don't have to weld anything to install a tire carrier. The brackets are naturally held in place by the carrier hinge bolts, remember? I've considered this one and have since decided that I don't need an additional 150 lbs attached to the extreme rear end of the Pathy. The carrier weighs about 75 lbs and my spare 33x10.50 weighs about 70.

Simply use a large flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the screws, then just be careful with the sensor. They're not made THAT fragile, but a well-used heater wire would definitely be more prone to breaking than a new one.

That's not just a handbrake light, it's a brake warning light. It probably means that your brake fluid level is low. Get the brakes checked.

Not to mention the amperage draw of the aforementioned fans, which draw down the available electricity for the ignition and everything else...up to 50-80 amps for some of them. I haven't yet seen a dyno video of a car with a fan supercharger installed that I believe gave any reputable data back...