88pathoffroad

Where do you live again?

No, that's NOT correct. An open diff will supply power to both tires equally until one tire has substantially less traction. THAT'S when only one tire gets all the power.

No, I only covered the rear lockers above. The only lockers for the front are an ARB air locker or welding it yourself. You can modify/use a 300ZX rear LSD centersection(Calmini sells them), but they're rare and just as expensive as an air locker usually.

What have you been smoking, tbeckhold? The knock sensor is in the center of the top of the engine, under the intake. The crank position sensor is inside the distributor. You can simply unplug the knock sensor to test if it's causing your problems or not. Get a Chilton's manual or a factory service manual for the specifics.

The whistling noise is the throttlebody idle air bypass valve or screw letting air bleed through just right so it whistles. All the VG30E's I've heard with a cone or K&N make the same noise.

Nope, you're fine. The body's totally separate from the frame and the suspension. No worries. B: The rear shocks will limit articulation with the swaybar removed, but the limiting factor in the front is the UCA bumpstops and the LCA bumpstops.

I probably won't replace mine. It's a moot point in a part of a state where emissions laws don't apply. My '83 Chevy van used to be a diesel, but now it has a gas 350. Doesn't matter. It's exempt from emissions laws in Oregon because it was originally a diesel engined vehicle. My 1976 Laguna is more than 20 years old, therefore exempt from emissions laws in Oregon. In 2008, the Pathy will officially be a 20 year old antique and therefore exempt from emissions law. About the same time, I acquire a nice 383 stroker.......and then the shxt will fly. Anyway. I keep the Pathy's engine tuned up, run it with semi-synthetic oil, and I don't floor it everywhere I go. I make conscious efforts to go easy on the gas. My exhaust doesn't blow black smoke, and the ECU has no stored error codes. It's still got good compression. I believe it runs much cleaner than most of the 70's Chevy 350's did. Point being, I'm not driving around for no good reason all the time without a cat installed. Last year I barely broke 10,000 miles of driving on the Pathy. I'm being a good boy, dammit! *sort of*

If they need it, yes...

I never said I wasn't an ass, I just resented being called on it.

No, it's a commonly available PCV valve. No biggie.

Hey, you just called me an ass! Jerk! I can't afford a new cat, they're like $100 and I'm two months behind on my rent as it is. Plus, mine was plugged and broken already.

I wasn't aware that there were two sizes, all the 87-95 Pathfinders in the US seem to have the same part.

If you measure again, I think you'll find that they're 5x7's. I've seen numerous 90-95's at the junkyard and that's all any of them came with stock in the front doors. The rears got 6x9's or whatever it called for.

The heat shields are mostly to keep the floor of the body cool and keep the carpet and insulation from burning. There's even a heat sensor under the driver's seat, just in case the cat overheaats. Just leave the stock heat shields on the body and it'll be fine.

Is that so you can mall-crawl with it and look tough on the boulevard? I started on the AC board, then found Jim's site and started coming here. I started modding my Pathy shortly after buying it.

Check your hoses, hose clamps and the air bypass hose and valve(if so equipped) for leaks or bulges.

1. It may be running a bit rich on startup, which would be normal anyway... 2. What's steaming? Is it or isn't it? Please elaborate. 3. Most likely brakes, that's a relatively easy first check at the least. 4. o.O Hmmmm. It should be pretty easy to tell if the rear diff leaks. Is there oil on the bottom of it? Oil seeping around the seal on the centersection? If it's too hard to tell, clean it off with degreaser and then check it again in a week or so. The oil should be changed if it's dark-colored or creamy-colored(water in the oil). It's cheap insurance against not knowing when it was done last...

He's right, it may simply be against exhaust codes to run a dual under the tank in a spot it was never meant to be. Shoot, that and the fact that it's illegal for any mechanic or exhaust shop to remove or render inoperable any catalytic converter device in any vehicle originally equipped with one... That said, I've seen several Pathfinders with duals, including Lee from L&P Performance, who built his own. And with that said, I believe that if you remove the cat yourself and take it in (drive it in with no cat, wear earplugs), they can't say much about it and you can build it the way you want, provided they have the skill to do it and you have the money to afford the time spent to do it your way. Good enough?

I vote hubs too. Just to be safe, take off the hubs and clean them, regrease them, then I'd repack the wheel bearings at the same time just in case.

Try again now, Vsicks.

It'll balance out if you always refill the tank at or near the same point and add the same amount of acetone every time. I don't believe there will be any problems from the acetone added to the gas, being as it is such a small amount compared to the volume of gas it's being added to... And to finish... Bernard, I simply haven't had enough money lately to be able to fill the tank more than once a month. Makes it kinda hard to estimate mileage. Go figure. Good thing I got a job near-by, bad thing winter's coming and I can't take the option of riding my bike to work anymore unless I want to show up sweaty and tired.

You don't have a carburetor, you have throttle body injection. BIG difference, man. Were you going to ask a specific question or just kinda of wait for random responses?

No, it's not. Just take off the air cleaner and use a long extension on a 3/8" ratchet to take it out. You'll see if you get up there face to face.

Neither. I believe that's an ignition problem all the way. Check all the wiring for the coil, power transistor, ECU(at the connector and under the carpet all the way up to the firewall), distributor and all the harnesses in the engine bay that have those wiring harnesses routed through them.

An idler arm brace prevents the idler arm from wearing out it's own pivot bushings under radial (up-and-down) load induced by the crappy centerlink joints which allow the tie rods to torsionally twist the entire centerlink when sufficient side-shock loads are encounteded while offroading. In the end that contributes toward bending the idler arm pivot shaft (and possibly bending the arm itself, yes), rendering the whole thing useless. With a brace, the stock IA is a lot stronger than without and it also keeps the IA bushings maintenance free. (Or at least lower than without the brace) Thank you for the design compliment, but it's not all mine. My steering setup is L&P Performance's full steering system with a custom idler arm brace I made. Look into their website for how it's built. http://www.lpperformance.com