ejin4499

I don't wish to argue. I am trying to expand my information. I was able to remove the engine from my 95 with out removing the front diff. I was then able to put in its place a vg33 with a vg30 oil pan in its place again without removing the front diff. Did I do something wrong or risk damaging my oil pan? I did this several 1000 miles ago and have not had any issues with the pan leaking and it doesn't apear to be damaged. Also I don't want to thread jack so if its more appropriate I can start a new thread. I remember what I did. I had removed the transmission so I could swap in a manual so I just tilted the engine on the hoist so the oil pan stuck into where the transmission would have been until the engine settled on the motor mounts. Whats worse pulling the front diff or droping the tranny?

I've done both you don't need to drop the front diff just move the tranny back and pull motor.

disconnect all your cables and harnesses and air intake unbolt the tranny i think 13 bolts make sure you get the one under the starter unbolt drive lines from differentials 4 bolts each slide transmission back a few inches unbolt motor mounts should be about 4 bolt total on that may need to move starter so you can unbolt the torque converter if you have an auto if manual no need If you need more info do a search. Removing the motor is covered in depth in this forum in one post or another.

I'm looking now but incase you already have a solution do these guys have a connector for the m30 maf plug? N/m no they don't

stripped it down to the shortblock cleaned new gaskets and seals swapped the mounting brackets from the vg30 to the vg33 so all my accessories mount up in the stock locations. I didn't have to build or modify any bracketry. swapped the crank from the vg30 swapped the oil pump 4x4 water pump from a 95 cams from the vg30 intake from the vg30 installed oil filter stud and little ball thingy that I can't remember the name of that goes next to the stud. orginaly I used the vg30 fuel rail but switched to the vg33 fuel rail and changed out the clips. I wouldn't bother with this again cause the flow rate of the injectors is the same. basicaly made a bigger bore vg30. It was great to learn from and is giving me a great foundation to build from. If you look at my engine everything is in stock wd21 locations all my wireing harnesses are stock so all the manuals still apply with out any futzing around.

What speed and rpm are you driving during your commute?

I know that Mr. 510 is working on a pulley adapter to use the 33 crank with 30 accessories. Has anyone seen a hybrid pulley that would allow you to use the ribbed pulley for the super charger from the frontiers and xterras and use the rest of your vbelt vg30 accessories?

my maf harness connector was loose and worn out. I tried retensioning it and made a mess out of it. doh Also at some point I intend to swap in the maf and ecu from an m30 that I have laying around here. I've been chasing a intermittent idle issue for a while. I wanted to get that sorted first. Thus trying to retention the loose maf harness.

Maaaaaannnn (end whine) Why is it all the cool stuff comes out after I get done with the project?

Those look sweet. I like that option alot better than splicing stuff from parts trucks. Any idea who the manufacturer is?

To splice or not to splice that is the question. Wether it is nobler to cut and splice existing cable or to replace the whole thing and repin connector and the conection at the ecu. Obviously running new wire would be the better way to go but is splicing a new plug on the maf wireing harness a problem?

My thought was to install a pan in the rear cargo area that dropped down into where the gas tank would be then be able to cover it with a panel and the cargo mat. That way its not dropping to low just the thinkness of the tire (wich is less the the thinkness of the tank) I don't have to lift it on top of my truck, I can mount what ever I want to the carrier or I can remove it altogether and I can still get to it if I get my truck stuck up to its axles in something.

has anyone swaped the gas tank from a 96 -up pathfinder to a 90-95? I was thinking if I move the tank I could move the spare under the truck and be able to mount something else to that tire carrier ie gas can.

Hell if the whole engine is there just grab the whole thing swap your accessory brackets from the 30 to the 33 with a new water pump swap your crank and cams and your set. almost all that work is just ratchet wrenching.

have you checked the reset of your hoses for cracking esp the ones under the intake manifold?

you will need to drill out your bolt holes on your headers to get them to fit over the 10mm studs I would make sure your have a little slack in there for expansion and cooling. I think you will need to notch out one of the water channels to get them to line up properly. The intake manifold I would use off the vg33 I think it is a little larger but don't quote me on that.

I think it depends on where the leak is. I have always been told that if you have a leak anywhere before your O2 sensor that it can throw off your reading.When I put my headers on they use a slip fitting on the cross over pipe; I had a lot of trouble with my idle until I got that welded. When I had a leaking manifold I don't think I had any real issues with emissions or idle. Personaly I think its not that big at deal as long as its right at your manifold or after your O2 sensor. YMMV

dude that sucks. Pick up a vg33 rebuild it or at least give it a good inspection and go with that. Not much diff in the gas mileage.

What happened to your old ones? If they warped you have other problems that need to be fixed first.

Have you checked to make sure all your connections are good and tight and your not just suffering from a bad electrical connection. Shouldn't need a mechanic for that one.

why rebuild a vg30 when you can drop in a vg33 out of a 2003 xterra? While your at it drop in the transmission out of the same xterra along with a cooler bypass and your set.

well sure if you want to take the easy way out.

If you switch your ecu to a federal 90-93 and switch your o2 sensor to the old smaller style I think you can side step the whole issue. Also for anyone in Cali the federal will still pass smog but give you a little bit better fuel map. I swapped mine out and could tell the difference, not a huge difference mind you but a difference.

Sorry man but your tranny sounds like its shot. Reverse is the first to go. I'd start trying to find a junked Xterra and pull that one to replace yours. But you could go through the factory manuals pinned in this forum. I think it has a diagnostic procedure to go through for each gear.

just for kicks disconnect the o2 sensor and see if it leans out or stays running rich. If it leans out there is your problem an $80 o2 sensor. If it stays running rich see if something is impeding air intake.