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ejin4499

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Everything posted by ejin4499

  1. ok so first thing that I'm going to try now that I have a diagram of pressure flow is jacking up the rear putting a gague on the direct clutch hydralic line and watching how the line pressure changes. As far as I know it should be a realatively smooth application of pressure. If its jerky I probably have a valve problem that needs looking at. If anyone would like to chime in here with any thoughts or brain farts that would be appriciated.
  2. no solution but may be valuable to someone sometime. http://www.gearsmagazine.com/magazine/view/801da54d-4fc7-4ff1-950e-46c757942748#page1 http://www.gearsmagazine.com/magazine/view/1e70aa21-c054-4e96-a301-3ae3ed420f35#page1 http://www.atraonline.com/gears/2007/2007-04/2007_04_40.pdf http://www.atraonline.com/gears/2010/2010-09/2010_9_36.pdf http://www.atraonline.com/gears/2010/2010-08/2010_8_16.pdf http://www.atraonline.com/gears/2010/2010-09/2010_9_4.pdf http://www.atraonline.com/gears/2007/2007-01/2007_01_12.pdf http://www.sonnax.com/articles/128-RE5R05A-Facts-and-Observations I think my answer may come from some of this information. If anyone looks at it and can tell me a procedure to try that would be great. I am not a mechanic I am just willing to teardown and transmission and rebuild it until I get it right.
  3. So I bought a 2006 pathfinder 4x4 se. It had the classic blown radiator but I got a good deal on it. I got the manual and the master rebuild kit and went to town. Gotta say a really fun project. Anyway the problem after the rebuild every gear shifts smooth as butter except 2nd. If I give it about 1/8 throttle it pops in like something rear ended me. If I give it 1/2 throttle it shifts relatively smooth but I can still feel it shift. I've read the manual and gone through the diagnostics as far as someone with out a consult can do. I'm not getting any light or dtc's. Is 2nd supposed to be hard under light throttle or do I need to start pulling parts and finding a way to bench test them? Or even better does someone have a consult 2 with obd2 adapter I can rent from them? Thanks guys
  4. Anyone that tried this ever get any gas mileage results?
  5. being in cali you should be able to find a rust free frame to either get pieces to weld in or do a frame swap. I know up here by SF there are at least 4 picknpulls that I could get a good frame from. How does the rest of the truck look? have you checked under the rear seats?
  6. or weld it to something with lots of leverage or not easily movable.
  7. A timing belt can be done in a open field with a craftsmen 100 piece tool kit a bucket and a appropriately sized socket for the crank snout. You can do it in an afternoon/evening. You don't work over time every day do you? Check the videos on youtube for it read the manual about properly timing the engine (lining up the timing marks) you can do it no problem.
  8. If you already have the stuff to rebuild your heads (most top end gasket kits) and the tools to take proper measurements to make sure the junk yard heads are good; I would swap the heads and have the top end all nice and refreshed. While your in there might as well change the water pump and the timing belt if you change the heads.
  9. Dressing a vg33 as a vg30 works just fine. The only verifiable difference that doesn't involve a micrometer is the VG33 stamp on the deck of your block just behind the passenger side head. Hard to see but findable if you know to look for it. You could probably get away with a vg34 as long as the sniffer passed. Let us know about what pistons you end up with.
  10. just put a bolt in the egr for now. Ran mine like that just fine no loss is power or mileage for a couple months as a daily driver.
  11. Just keep clean good grade oil in there change as required. If your feeling spunky pull your valve cover to check for sludge buildup. Throw some sea-foam in there to clean most of the crap out if you find any.
  12. Dude quit being a whiner. If you don't like the forum leave don't let the door hit you on the way out.
  13. If you want bolt on . If you want to keep the oil pumps and crank from the 33 search for mr 510's vg34 build and do what he does without the machine work and pistons.
  14. How hot is hot enough? The rings in these are stainless steel aren't they? I did run it for about a month after it overheated before I started having trouble. A machinist in town said that if the carbon ring at the top of the cylinder is still intact than it probably doesn't need rings. Any thoughts or rebuttals to that?
  15. Thanks everybody. I'm still debating whether I'm going to go that far or not but if i decide to re-ring it I will definitely get it honed one way or the other.
  16. Okey dokey I don't feel a slope or taper to the cylinder. I don't feel a ridge at the top of the cylinder and I can still (barley) see the hone marks from a previous hone crossing at about 45 degrees. Can I get a bore gauge at harbor freight or is that something I would need to get on amazon or other? Are allowable tolerances available in the FSM I didn't think to look?
  17. I've got a a vg33 with the heads off and out of the truck. I'm debating re-ringing it. Does it need a new hone on the cylinders or can I just get a new set of rings and go? If I do need to hone the cylinders can I do that at home for less than $100 or should I have a shop do it? I didn't think to do a compression test before I pulled the heads. The engine was bought from a junk yard that didn't keep very good records so I don't know how many miles are on it. Before I pulled the heads (radiator hose blew over heated) the engine ran smooth and didn't burn oil. Thanks
  18. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35967-really-need-help-with-the-wiring-for-auto-to-manual/?hl=%2Bauto+%2Bmanual+%2Bswap&do=findComment&comment=674116 I used the posted manual when I did my swap. Its not 100% but its close enough to get you there between that and the forums.
  19. Your vg30 accessory brackets will bolt to the proper locations on a vg33 block regardless of where you got the vg33 block from.
  20. Anyone who tells you otherwise is a liar.
  21. ejin4499

    High Idle

    tap on your aux iac valve with a screwdriver. its the little tower on near the back of your intake. They can get stuck open resulting in a high idle.
  22. Wheels out of round? They would balance but still give you a rough ride.
  23. around here the best price is the guy who has a shop right next to the picknpull. Every picknpull I have been to has a shop next door that does windows.
  24. I would be concerned about melting the aluminum. Be very careful with that.
  25. Not really a point in not running one unless the one you have is all coked up.

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