Jump to content

ejin4499

Members
  • Posts

    358
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ejin4499

  1. So I was noodling around the net and ran across an idea of recovering heat from the exhaust using the rankine cycle. I though that was a great idea as then you could reduce the load put on your alternator and by extension your engine and then run more accessories from the battery. My next thought was if we are recoverying truly wasted heat you could then run a hydrogen generator to further improve efficency. Anyone have any ideas on what it would take to make that work? So I found someone making a small turbine. http://www.infinityt...it_Version.html this one is only about three inches long but they also make one a little larger. Does anyone know how much pressure the stock cooler for the auto trans is rated for? My thought was (since I swaped to manual and still have the stock cooler) run copper tubing around the exhaust to heat it then run it through the turbine then use the stock transmission cooler to condense the steam back to liquid again gravity feeds back to the copper tubing. repeat.
  2. Yes you are correct a vacuum leak would cause a rough idle. The reason I suspect its my valves (still trying to get a leak down tester) is because of how the vacuum gague was vibrating (http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm) Also I have replaced every hose on the top end of my engine and I have sprayed propane at every seem joint and fitting in the top and bottom end of the engine. If there was a leak the propane should have found it. BTW the wand from a household weed burner makes a great propane dilivery device. (http://www.harborfreight.com/propane-torch-91033.html) the bell unscrews and you have a wand with a bend in it and great control of how much propane at a time get released.
  3. whats wrong with just a screw with a washer torqued to the approp tension? wow that sounds like it should be a euphemism.
  4. Update spoke with a couple of local machinists they all said that they had never seen a vg33 head need new guides but that I might have a bent valve or something going on with my lifters. I don't get the classic lifter tick in this truck after the first 1 second on a cold start. Anyone have any feedback on bent valves or any other reason my valves wouldn't be seating proper?
  5. I've been fighing a rough idle problem since I replaced the engine. I recently read about using a vacuum gauge to diagnose different engine trouble. I put the gauge on there and it fluttered about 17 - 21 inches and when rpms increased the needle smoothed out. I looked around on the net and so far what most sites are saying is that is an indication of worn valve guides. I looked up what it takes to replace them in the FSM. I was wondering if anyone has had to replace the guides or if there is something else I should try first. Also if I'm going to pull the heads off my beasty I'm going to do a total rebuild on them. Anyone seen a good guide on a simple port and polish job? what replacment valves should I look at. Would doing a three angle grind be doable in a home garage by a non machinist? Thanks guys
  6. are you doing a swap or are you trying to use it in a 96 and up? if your doing the swap yes you can make it work. If your putting it in a newer vehicle then no you can't.
  7. I am almost 100% certain that your ecu will work just fine with any vg33 you get as long as you use the sensors that were in your pathfinder originally. IE don't try and wire in the mafs from the vg33 into the ecu for the vg30. I think I read someone tried that and it never ran right if at all. there are sensors that you can swap over just by changing the end on it but I don't know what they all are. Just easier to stick with what you have until you have a reason to change it. I would recommend you google nissannut and look at his swap. He had lots of pictures on his site with some good explanations of why he did certain things. Then check out what Mr. 510 did on this forum. Then there is another guy who posted a pdf on this forum detailing his swap. He modified his the least out of any that I have seen. I think he made a few custom brackets and dented is oil pan till it cleared. Anyone have a link to that post?
  8. Are you swapping your crank or are you getting the pulley adapter?
  9. You might try a thin coating of RTV on the outside. Its strong bonds well the tube and is still flexible. Not to mention you probably already have a bunch in your garage so its cheap.
  10. The plan right now is to get Injectors from a pick n pull cobble together a fuel rail for it. Then start splash mixing incrementally more e85 in the tank and see what happens at each stage. I'll keep a mileage and driving condition log. Then I'll take a look at tuning in for a particular mix that gets me to the price point I'm looking for that still allows me the range I need on a single fill up. Has anyone added a hardbody gas tank to these as a secondary tank?
  11. what color are your spark plugs? Do you have any leaks in your exhaust before your O2 sensor? Have you leaked any radiator fluid into the engine? I'm thinking your cat and your O2 sensor have been fouled. Have you done lean rich check using your ecu. Instructions for that are in the FSM. What kind of gas mileage do you get?
  12. I love it when I'm right Seafoam doesn't get into those and I think that the issue isn't so much that they get dirty as they get old and corroded inside. I don't know if you can clean it, but you might try and see what you get. I've taken one apart, but I was never able to get it to work properly after reassembly. Good luck let us know if you get it cleaned out.
  13. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32936 my bad its IAC regulator in the pic
  14. Passed the visual inspection no problem. While you have the whole thing apart do yourself a favor and replace all your hoses. I had a couple cracked ones and had to chase a vacuum leak. Make sure you keep your entire intake from the vg30 little baffles and everything. I had taken my baffles off and it was pulling to much air in. My hydrocarbons were non existent while my NOX was around 1500. The issue may have also been caused by a problematic Mafs wire but I wont know till I get it smoged again in a couple years.
  15. Just about everything will self ignite / detonate/ pre-ignition when its gotten to a specific temperature. Nismothunders idea was that because ethanol burns at a lower temp it takes a lower temp to ignite it and thus you should have cooler plugs or else they might cause issues with preignition. Ethanol does burn cooler and slower than gasoline but it takes a higher temp to ignite it. The reason some people are putting cooler plugs in there machines is because they are messing with boost and CR not because the the ignition temp of ethanol. I'm not sure what you mean when you say its a wetter mixture. When you distill your Ethanol you have to get it to e100/200 proof before mixing with gasoline. Otherwise the water can cause the gas and ethanol to separate. If you are running just ethanol you can have a little water in 10-15% and not have anything to bad. One report I read did a study and found that 1-2% water in the ethanol reduced some of the corrosive effects on metals. I didn't quite get that one so take it with a grain of salt. If your talking about the exhaust and how much water is in it after combustion that I'm not sure of.
  16. ejin4499

    More fuel

    Thanks for the info. Do you have a board that you recommend that I can search through? I'm just getting into the ethanol scene. It's neat to think that one might be able make your own fuel in your backyard. On top of that all the projects that I want to do anyway will offset some of ethanol's energy deficiency.
  17. You might see if your iacv-aac is sticking. its that long tower looking thing behind your egr valve if you tap it after your engine has warmed up and your idle drops that might be your issue.
  18. Ethanol auto combusts at 689 degrees F Gasoline auto combusts at 536 degrees F I looked it up you are wrong.
  19. ejin4499

    More fuel

    If I want to run say 34% more fuel through an injector how would I calculate the required duty cycle ? I want to switch to ethanol. One of the challenges is how to get more fuel into the cylinder. Would our stock injectors be able to do this? I've been trolling through google and have gained a general understanding of how some of this is measured just not quite sure how to do the calculations.
  20. I guess we will find out. you don't have to change compression ratio or or ignition when you switch to ethanol. The properties of the fuel allow you to use a much higher compression ratio (up to 19:1 for e100) and allow you to advance your timing. As far as pre-ignition is concerned if your running a colder cleaner fuel and you have pre-ignition problems then you have something else seriously wrong with your engine.
  21. no more miles per gallon means I am trying to get my gallon of gas to take me further. Very difficult or expensive with our trucks but fewer dollars per mile mean I am trying to use a cheaper gallon. By brewing my gallon of fuel at home using a solar powered still (solar heat not solar electricity) I can cut my cost of fuel to well below a dollar per gallon. So even if I only get half the MPG I am still cutting my fuel expenses in half. So your simplification is incorrect they are not the exact same thing. I am in fact giving up mpg to gain a better dollar per mile.
  22. Thank you for your kind words of wisdom but you must not have read the post. It's obvious that I'm not looking for more miles per gallon but fewer dollars per mile.
  23. So the other day I had to shell out 70 bones to fill up the tank. even though I only drive the pathfinder on the weekends when I go gold prospecting this was still a major ouch for me. So I started researching alternative fuels looking for one I could make safely in my back yard. I stumbled upon this site. http://running_on_alcohol.tripod.com/id36.html Ok so how do I run a fuel injected truck that is underpowered to begin with on a fuel that gives half the energy per liter. Obvious starting place is put more fuel in the cylinders per injection. Ok how do I do that? bigger injectors bigger pump and remap the ecu. Sounds expensive that's when I found these guys. http://www.change2e85.com/servlet/StoreFront The kit basicaly just lengthens the ground pulse to the injectors based on what the ecu is sending. Ok this takes care of the remap for the ecu and I can still run gas if I want to but will the pump and the injectors be able to keep up with the demand for more booze? Also has anyone made a bigger tank something in the realm of thirty gallons?
  24. You have to unbolt and pull it back to disengage the transmission drive shaft why not pull it a little further and not have to drop the front diff ?
×
×
  • Create New...