ejin4499

are you going to do a dual exhaust or just run a y-pipe? With a body lift you should have lots of room on both sides of the transmission.

Dude I get this too. I've been trying to track it down. Have you made any progress on this?

the maf works by heating a wire to a certain temp then measures how much voltage it takes to maintain that temp. The more dense the air is the more heat it can pull from the maf the more heat the air pulls the more voltage it takes to maintain temp.

check your voltages at your maf if you damaged the heater in it you would be put in limp home mode.

You might consider swapping the accessory brackets from the old vg30 to the vg33 so you can mount the new accessories in old position. I don't know if they all mount to the old brackets or not but it might make other things easier later. Also the oil pump needs to be changed IIRC.

check you timing but also check your connector on your mafs make sure it isn't corroded and your getting the right voltages in and out.

check the manual look for limp home mode

standard craftsman mechanics set should have everything you need. You might also want a small cheater and two sets of wrenches to take off the driveline bolts. PMing is cool but I want to make sure this info gets on the forum for the next guy.

just swap the tranny over you don't need to mess with the diff or the axle. To make your gauges accurate just swap the gears from the speedo sensor in the tail of your tranny. If its 4x4 its in the rear of the transfer case. Let me know if you have any other questions. I did this swap last summer.

not onto a vg30 because of the different belts but to a vg33 yes.

Put the screw driver blade on a hard part of the engine ,like the top of a injector, then put the handle up to your ear. It lets you get a better idea of where the noise is coming from. I had a ticking noise that I was worried about until I tried that and it ended up just being my injectors. You can also try that to identify which lifter is tapping as well by putting the driver on to the valve cover. It's a neat trick for getting to know the noises of your truck.

did you ever try the screwdriver trick?

might also look for a vacuum leak.

if you get the accessories and the wires its cake. Otherwise you just swap the crank and follow nissannuts writeup on his website. I reused my oilpump cams lifters and fuel rail from my vg30. GL

do you still have the baffle on the front of the airbox or are you running a CAI at all, also have you checked for vacuum leaks? There is also a test in the FSM about if your engine is running lean or rich you may want to run that. None of it really matters (cause you already passed) other than making your truck runs the best it can.

Just out of curiosity when you took your emissions test what were the results?

Dude it is six or eight little bolts take them off set the engine to tdc and put it back on why are you not doing the simplest job in your todo list.

Forget the 350 studs go get a set for a vg33 they're 10mm instead of 8. drill and tap each hole put the 10mm in bore out the bolt holes on the headers (they are really really tight if you don't) and install.

I don't think you can set proper time off of another plug unless you have an alternate set of marks on the pulley. seriously I would pull it set #1 to TDC and put it back on so that the marks line up at 0. Then go about trying to diagnose everything else. Fix whats obviously wrong then you can fix the not so obvious with out getting screwed up by something that would have been easy to fix. radiator If your finding a bunch of crap in there it might be worth it to flush and drain a couple times.

I have no idea how they can cram there hands in there (between lower manifold and firewall) let alone get a wrench in too. Its all I can do just to put the wires back on without removing everything. As for the coolant I always just drained the whole system and replaced with new fluid. If I had to test something I would fill with water test and drain again. Then when i was finished use rad fluid.

You gots a ways to go yet. you need to drain the radiator fluid out of your engine block so when you remove the lower intake you don't dump a bunch of silicate rich radiator fluid down your intake valves into your cylinders. The big problem with this is that the silicone gets into your oil degrades your bearings and ultimately vaporizes and fouls your o2 sensors and your cats. The knock sensor is about 4 inches from the rear of the engine block.

dude if you weren't on the other side of the country from me I would be all over buying that from you.

Hey what state are you in I might be interested in buying the poor dear.

So far the project has stalled out. I have had an idle issue that I wanted to nail down for sure before I tried making any major mods to wiring. Basically I've been through the manual but my idle is still unstable sometimes. I've been able to smooth out 90% of the issue and I'm about ready to start the swap for my winter project.

IIRC the pinout on the ecu harness is as you look at the harness from the front. So you would actually disconnect the harness from the ecm and count your pins from the front of it.