ejin4499

I was wondering. Since your trying to make so much power with boost and you obviuously know your way around a engine have you considered building up a vg33 to replace your vg30? I just got done with that swap along with the auto to manual. It makes a huge difference in how much power the beasty has. I'm running around at sea level so I have now idea how well it would work as high up as you are but its a way to start off with a lot more umph. just a curious. regards

Is there a particular reason they wont work ? Not enough flow?

what about injectors for a vg33. wouldn't they be at least %10 larger than your existing ones? Should be cheap to find a good set in a junkyard.

I had the same problem once. It ended up being the main switches in the driverside door panel. Those get more crap and oil in them then you would think. Try taking one of the good switches from that panel and moving it to the coresponding switch of the malfunctioning door. see if you can make that door lock work again that way. The switches are cheap at a pick n pull they are also the same 90 - 96 and probably later. The only reason I stopped at 96 is I swapped some switches from a 96 into a 90 at one point.

I thought so. What I ended up doing was taking the gear selection switch off the side of the tranny. Turned it to park and left it all attachted. Now I have my anti theft device and a working engine. Now I just gotta finish rebuilding it and bolt it on knowing that everything should just work. SWEEEEEEETT whats the difference between the two. Any change in fuel maps or anything to do with making more power or is it just the stuff to control the auto? I'm thinking I'll keep one to work with nistune with and have the other to keep so when I blow up my tuned one I have a backup.

That would be sweet thanks

I know there is a switch or relay I am supposed to rewire or jump or something but I can't seem to find out what it is. If there is anyone who has done this already help would be greatly appriciated. would using the ecu from the manual parts truck eliminate my need for this jumper?

wouldn't using distilled water solve the mineral problem? Also if you notice sediment in your drained fluid I've heard of running distilled vinegar through the system to disolve it then change out the fluid again? Any thoughts

LOL Though as gas prices continue to rise gas mileage may eventualy catch up to the cost of an engine swap.

So you must not have a visual smog inspection way up there in colorado??

for those of us who are drooling at this project but not all that familiar with turbos what is this for? Looked at one of your other posts. Is this for replacing your distributor with a coil pack and edis module? I am assuming it makes it easier to use with a megasquirt? Am I correct?

Ok I just went through this with my 95 auto pathfinder no body lift. you need to take out the auto tranny lines that hook up to the radiator. do that and it slides out the front. lube patience and some wiggleing required. they run from the side of the tranny along the side of the engine block. The lines aren't that hard to remove just a couple bolts holding it to the tranny and the rubber lines connecting them to the rad. you will get tranny fuild everywhere if you are not careful. I would recomend jacking up front of the truck loosening the bolt on the side of the tranny pan let that drain into a bucket that way there is a lot less fluid to leak from the rad when you disconect the lines from the front. After you get them disconnected you should be able to gently pull them out toward the rear of the vehicle. make sure when you put it all back together to replace the fuild you drained. hth ejin

Ah I figured he did that so he could get the space for the turbo. Ah well would have been nice.

I had to swap the crank for the 25 mm crank if you do that the 33 mm oilpump wont work with it. I don't have the money to get the oil pump off of a frontier that has the right crank size so I used the oil pump off the vg30 that I used for parts. Wich puts the oil filter in the same place as the vg30. When I see one go through a pick n pull where I can get it for next to nothing maybe then I'll swap it.

Ok so I saw in another guys twin turbo build thread that he used the bell housing from a 300zx and put it on the manual transmission from his pathfinder. He also put in a vg30dett. My question is could I put a bell housing from a 300zx on my manual trans and bolt it to the vg33 that I have in my pathfinder. I liked the idea of the side mount starter to get it out of the way and away from the oil filter. I already have the trans out of the pathy and need to check the syncros for wear and tear, so now is the time to do it if I'm going to. Thanks

Ya I found that option too in my research. I'm putting putting my engine in a 95 pathfinder. The problem for me was that I had to spend most of my build money on just getting the engine ( I bought everything but the accesories) I didn't have anything left over for a new ps pump or alternator so I had to use what I already had. I wish I had taken pics of the project but I am almost done with the engine rebuild. Just need to put the oil pump rear main seal oilpan and valve covers on and I can put that powerplant back in my blue beasty. Im also doing the automatic to manual swap at the same time. I'm so freaking stoked cause I'm going to start reasembly tomarrow. Im hoping I can have the engine and transmission in and bolted on by monday so next weekend I can spend getting it all working again. Can't wait to take this gold prospecting.

I wish I had the extra cash. That 200 means the difference between getting the beast rolling by april or by next december. Frickin get out of debt snow ball. Grumble grumble moan moan

I'm just getting into this myself so I'm not really sure. As far as I understand a crankshaft has counter weights built into it to balance the weight of the rods and pistons and if you change what is attached to the crank would that not change what the counter balance needs to be?

forgive my ignorance but wont the bigger pistons and different rods change the weight?

Do I really need to balance the crankshaft when swaping the 33 mm crank from the vg33 for a 25 mm crank out of a vg30. I've looked at a couple of how tos and blogs and nobody mentions it. I have found both http://nissannut.com/maintenance/vg33e_upgrade/ and http://www.csc-service.com/images/swap/vg33swap.pdf I am following more of nissannuts aproach with rebuilding from the shortblock rather than modifying parts to work with vg30 accesories. Any thoughts or good search terms to work with? Thanks

Seems reasonable enough to me. Which is a good thing cause I just realized the thorley headers that I was going to put on there are 2.25". So its not like I have a whole lot of choice.

Hey wheres that shop your know of. I've been to some of the local guys around me and .... ya .... they don't listen to well. Also Im in the middle of building up a vg33 is 2.25 still the best size for the exhaust?

makes total sense. wouldn't a baloon pressure sensor attached to the fuel pump telling it how hard to pump do the same thing ? baloon really getting squished don't put as much voltage to pump let the pressure in the tank do some of the work.

I would have though a tank that could take the pressure would have been cheaper to design than the whole canister valve vapor lines etc....

Ok so what would happen if I took out the charcol canister and all the lines with it and caped off the vent on the gas tank? Or more to the point why do we bother with it. I know it gives the gas vapo a place to go but whats the point?