ejin4499

If we are using a manual transmission and don't have the tcu installed will that info still be usable by the m30 ecu? Or a more exact question would be what does the m30 ecu do with the info from the TPS?

You know I really don't know. I've seen a bunch of people talking about how awsome it is, so I wanted to check it out for myself. I do know you can put a nistune daughterboard in it and tune the ecu wich is pretty cool. That way you could just load in the map that made the most sense for what you were doing. Other than Nistune I'm still not sure what the big deal is. Thats why I'm looking.

If I find a downloadable FSM how would I upload the manual to the forum? Found a scanned in manual its 85 MB Here the link http://www.f31club.com/manual/ Is there anywhere you would recomend to find more info on what exactly the m30 is capable of. I know you recomended it over a standalone in another post I was just wondering where you found your info.

I read a while back about swaping out the stock ecu in a pathfinder for the ecu from an infiniti m30. I did a little looking around and have found some spoty information. Thought I throw out the idea and see if anyone knows any good resources. I've so far found the z31 forum but most of the info on that is missing important pics or severly incomplete. I have also found a post saying that the 94 pathfinder ecu and the m30 ecu are basicaly the same I was wondering if anyone knew anything about that. Thanks for the info.

If your going to go crate look for a vg33e. same amount of work but 10% more power, probably less miles on the motor and you can supercharge it with the super charger from an xterra or frontier later if you want. You would need to change your accessory pumps or change the crankshaft for the one in your vg30 (I did the later). Personaly were I you I would take the time to learn about the engine and do the different diagnostic tests so that if you later decide to swap motors you know how to do the tests when the new motor doesn't work quite the way you wanted.

Thanks I'll see if I can find the section you are referencing. My tach is all jacked up so I don't quite know where my rpms are. I'm just kinda guessing based on ear. I'm thinking about getting a replacement tach as it seems like everyone has trouble with the oem ones.

Update So the error codes were caused by a bad ground connection. When I put my intake manifold back on I didn't tighten them down good enough (they are the two wires that are bolted to the front of intake manifold that come off the main wireing harness) The horrible lope was at least partialy caused by my o2 sensor. Disconnected it, started up, idled way better. It still has a little lope to it but I think the egr valve is getting stuck open a little bit so its sucking in some exhaust on idle. When I give it a little gas it evens out. Anyone know where the idle speed adjustment screw on the Iac valve is supposed to be set? Half way in half way out? Also how does that interact with the idle speed adjuster on the back of the ecm? When I adjust either of these it doesn't seem to make any difference. I also have an exhaust leak that I think may be contributing to the lope issue. Will consult FSM for more idle hunting/lope info. Cheers

Sorry I didn't post those I meant to come back and add that later. I got distracted by dinner and the kids. Thank you for your help.

The truck has a horrible lope to the idle. When I step on the gas the check engine light comes on. When I let go of the gas the light goes out. Pulled the codes I got a 12 and 35. I looked up what the codes mean but I'm a little unsure of how to proceed. Anyone run into this before?

Ive looked at crate motors for a pathy usualy somewhere around 1200 you can get one from a salvage yard pulled out and loaded into your truck for around 600 or a pickn pull type place for around 200. I rebuilt one from a salvage yard ( vg33 from a 96 pathfinder ) its a really awesome way to get to know your vehicle and get a good feel for how engines work. On the flip side its a crapton of work if you have never done it before. You need an engine stand and a hoist. The FSM is a must.

The rings are a type of seal between your piston and the wall of your cylinders. When they start to wear out when your engine starts its compression stroke (where the air and fuel mixture start to get squished) some of mix gets pushed past the rings and the remainder doesn't get compressed the way it needs to.The more you compress it the better the resulting explosion will be. Also after spark has been applied to the mixture that is still left you loose alot of that explosions power as the expanding gases leak out past the rings. This is my simple understanding of how this works if anyone more knowledgeable would care to correct me I would appreciate it. I would start with a simple compression test. The tool is about fifty bucks and you can do it yourself in less than an hour. The FSM details what compression is within spec and if your out of spec you can post here and folks should be able to tell you how big of a problem it would be. thorley headers would run around 400 when I ordered mine I got them from 4x4parts.com there is a home made CAI topic pinned to the top of the wd21 forum check that out. you could do both on your own with a simple mechanics ratchet set from craftsman as long as you don't break any exhaust studs. Do some searching around the forum you'll find all sorts of ideas and stories about that. I have drilled out and helicoiled at least 5 on two different engines.

Prolly the best thing to do would be to rebuild the engine to get it back to stock power. Did they do a compression test? If a rebuild is just out of the cards your may want to consider putting a set of thorley headers on it a cold air intake and possibly a performance cam. If that stuff is out of the budget ( I know its out of mine) you may want to run some seafoam through it and try to clean some of the built up crap out of your engine. Good luck HTH

Swap to a manual trans. Enjoy the difference in power and the lack of worry for such mundane things.

Also check the o ring between the top of the gas pump and the gas tank. Heres a hint dont use silicon to replace that o ring. It makes if verrrry hard to get back out again when you need to replace your fuel pumpt.

using a timing light I am at 15 degrees. I think. Started vacuum testing all the parts of the upper intake think I found a vacuum leak (which could cause lean running at low rpm) the poor beat up hose that goes to the fuel pressure regulator, wich may also explain my rough idle.

Hey did you have any idle issues when you put your vg33 in? Which injectors did you use?

Na no snapping noises. Tried disconnecting that and using that connection for the vacuum gauge and still no vacuum.

Hey thanks for the reply but I'm not having any speedo problems. My problem relates to how much NOx I am making at 15 mph. How do I reset my ecu I haven't seen anything about doing that in any of the swap guides that I looked at? I think my cat is good cause my HC is waaaaaayyy low and at 25 mph my NOx drops to 21 ppm.

Ok so I rebuilt a vg33 and put it into my 95 pathfinder(first time rebuilding an engine). It ran a little rough at idle but as soon as it got some gas it flew. Also tach is a little goofy but the tach was goofy when I got it. So I get it to a smog station do the pre test and find out my nox, at 15 mph in second gear, is over 1500 ppm 5 times the limit but it recovers at 25mph to 61 ppm. Did a little research found a couple things on the forum to check out one of wich is the egr system. Looked up the different things that the egr and bpt valves are supposed to do and found out my truck isn't doing them. Namly supply vacuum to the egr valve to keep it open under certain conditions. At idle there is no vacuum going to the egr valve. ok fine there isn't supposed to be. When I get to cruising speed 55 mph still no vacuum. I checked the lines, all clear. I tested the silenoid all lines clear on that and it opens with 12 volts. Checked the valves those hold vacuum for 20 second no problem. I am getting 12 volts from the plug on the silenoid constantly. The only thing I can think of is that 1 I am not getting enough vacuum from the air intake in order to open the valve at low rpm. I am not getting any vacuum from this at all not matter how high I rev it. 2 the selinoid is never cutting out to allow the main vauum connection to open the egr valve. I am at a total loss any ideas on what I am missing or should I be looking at my cooling or fuel supply. Thanks

Its not that its just 10% larger its that you can actualy make it a 3.4 or 3.5. I figured going turbo was about getting as much gas as possible into the cylinder I thought maybe a bigger cylinder would allow you to get closer to your power goals without having to use as much boost. Also just a comparisson between vg30 auto and vg33 converted to manual 5th gear is actualy a gear to be used for acceleration uphill as opposed to just a craptastic cruising gear. Any ways awesome build

I was wondering. Since your trying to make so much power with boost and you obviuously know your way around a engine have you considered building up a vg33 to replace your vg30? I just got done with that swap along with the auto to manual. It makes a huge difference in how much power the beasty has. I'm running around at sea level so I have now idea how well it would work as high up as you are but its a way to start off with a lot more umph. just a curious. regards

Is there a particular reason they wont work ? Not enough flow?

what about injectors for a vg33. wouldn't they be at least %10 larger than your existing ones? Should be cheap to find a good set in a junkyard.