ejin4499

unless the counter my workbench the other head and the engine block are all warped exactly the same way at 4 different angles it was pretty straight

Ok so I cleaned both the aluminum head and the shortblock surface. I ran a metal ruler edge across the surface of the heads and I couldn't see the light or put a peice of paper between them. when I put the head on the block they looked like they mated very well. My only concern is that when the head is on the block there is a tiny amount of wobble between them. Not enough to see but enough that I can feel it. This is all of course without any gasket in place.

I got a engine from a junkyard that I have been tearing down to rebuild and I think that one of the heads might be warped. is there a test that I can try other than sending it in. I know sending it would be the most accurate way but I was hoping for a "if it does this than its probably but still might be not warped" If that makes any sense. thanks

Ok Ill go with that. How do I figure out wich one would be the closest to the right one?

anyone know if the fs5r30a had a magneticaly drive speedo or a gear driven speedo?

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/0801rc_mechanica_speedometer_calibration/index.html While its not an answer it does give some really good info and may lead to an answer

They might be legit but the site looks a little skechy to me. They don't even have an about us page. Dunno YMMV

I am doing a auto to manual swap with (for the project truck) non-stock size tires and was wondering how I figure out how many teeth need to be on the speedo gear in order for the gague to be within 5-10 mph at 70 mph. I think the gear from the manual will be off because of the different rear differential and the gear from the auto will be wrong because of the different gears in the manual transsmision all of wich happens before we even get to the tire size. thanks for any links regards already searched +speedo +speedo +calibration +speedo +gear

if you want the search to require a term put a + with no space infront of the term example +radiator if you need to search for an exact phrase put quotes around it. Example "torque converter" if you want to find info that does not contains terms put a minus in front of it example -poho If you want to make a term optional simply type it in with out any modifiers example support If used properly this becomes a really powerful search feature. Hope this helps some lazy bastards that don't search and keeps the search nazis quiet for a while.

banned for being an insensitive piggy murderer. Charlotte and Wilbur for president 2012

anyone found a write up for this yet? Please please please

tell ya what if you dont want it I'll give you a great deal a bridge in trade.

Are you running everything on your engine stock? I looked at your profile and it doesn't say anything about any intake or exhaust mods?

what does this mean in terms of power vs top speed etc. I'm thinking about swaping the manual transmission from my rusted out 90 to this 94 instead of rebuilding the auto on the 94. Just tring to figure out the best differential to use. thanks

I've given that some thought. Isn't the gearing in the rear axle different on the auto vs the manuals?

Oh I found tons of stuff on the crappy cooler and even more posts on people with the same problem I just haven't found any info on anyone who actualy rebuilt the transmission. I've seen people who say they rebuilt their transmission but they never say with what kit or what manual they followed. Everyone seems to make auto trans out to be some sort of magic box and only the those who are initiated can know the secrets.

Ok So I got a screaming deal on a 94 pathfinder the only problem is it wont go in reverse.I'm in the process of doing research on how these transmissions work and what is involved with rebuilding them. I have already changed the tranny fluid but not the filter. I'm not hearing any noises when it is in reverse and the low gears 1 and 2 work fine. I'm working my way through the rest of the troubleshooting guide in the manual hoping I don't have to pull the whole thing. Any thoughts ideas and information would be greatly appriciated. Thanks P.S if I have to pull this thing I will try and post a full guide with pics as I wasn't able to find one on the forum.

Good, but, get the right line or put a hose clamp on it if it is close enough, don't count on RTV for something like this; it will let you down IMO. Then chase the rest... A cold form tap may help if there is enough thread, but no gaurentee. Yes to drill out and put in a threaded insert. Don't go deeper than it is, you may be close to a water channel. I've had good luck with Heli-coil but have not used it with this application. All in all, what ever you use, make sure to do it right the first time. I'm a machinist, so if you have any questions, ask... Ok I looked up cold form tap and it doesn't sound like that would work as the first half of thread was stripped before I got the truck and the rest stripped out as I was tightening the new stud in place (they had used a bolt which still allowed the gasket to blow out) Should I helicoil the rest of the studs on that side of the head so I keep the same thermal expansion across all of the studs or is no big deal? Basic theory of the helicoil as I understand it is clean out existing thread remnants with recomended drill bit thinking I'll get a dowel measure depth then mark drillbit so I don't over do it tap the hole with supplied tap which resembles the pictures of a cold form tap. gently at the proper angle :dirty mind filter: having never tapped anything other than a keyboard is it self aligning or is there a trick to get it in there straight:close dirty mind filter: back out shaving frequently use lots of lube thinking penetrating oil insert threaded insert which looks like it just threads in maybe some type of lock tight may be in order ? insert stud Profit Are they the swivel fittings?? Mine leaked also so I replaced them with solid units... Regardless, if it leaks, you have to replace it with something better. yes they are the crappy swivel fittings. I know I'm looking for somthing 3/4" but beyong that I'm a little lost. do I get all new lines what are the specs other than 300 psi and 3/4" any particular brand or material do I just get new fittings cut the old ones off and inset these ( where get. don't trust OSH ) Ok thats as lucid as I get after 10 :coffee!: Thanks for the help

ok got part of one problem and found two new ones. Ok so the part of the problem that I found is that the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the motor didn't fit as well as I thought it did. A little rtv on the end of the line while it was on the nipple saw that straight I think... maybe.. still hearing a strong sucking noise.. I wasted a whole can of carb cleaner trying to track that down. But on the plus side my truck no longer stalls or idlehunts when I step on the cluch during deceleration. I still have a small hesitation when I stomp on the gas which I think is related to the suspected vacuum leak. Any ways the problem that I just discovered is that one of the exhaust manifold studds that I just replaced only had thread on the bottom half of the hole that the stud goes in. I gues helicoil is the only way to go on that ???? Would be greatful for any input on the issue. second problem I discovered is that the brass fittings on my oil filter relocation kit are leaking badly. I wrapped som wire between the brass fitting and the plastic spacer and that helped massivly. Now it only leaks a small amount when driving instead of spraying when idling. Do these universally suck and I wasted money or did I happen to just get a bum one?? Thanks

I thought it apt ok so I pulled the spark plugs and they all looked good. I will post pics of worst one, meaning the one with the most deposits. I have been looking through the manuals it looks like the 94 is the closest to mine. Pathfinders 90-95 are just about the same under the hood right? while under the hood a little later I noticed a hissing noise but could not find a source. It seems to be coming from the back of the engine. I am only aware of one small vacuum line back there and I just replaced it about a week ago. Is it possible that I have a blown gasket back there ??? What should I be looking for???

you'll spend more on the labor at the shop than you would at the pick and pull ..... I understand being broke but unless the shop is going to do it for free your probably better off saving the 30 bucks and getting the part from pick n pull. Good luck man

I'm dying the death of a thousand pinpricks. tried spraying carb cleaner around the heads and around hoses the engine didn't start to race but what I did notice is just about every one of my vacuum hoses has more cracks than a room full of proctologists. I'm going to start with replacing all of those and checking my spark plugs. The plugs are only about 1000 miles old would they still show a problem?

I'll take a look at my spark plugs this weekend and let you know. If the water pump wasn't moving as much water as it should, would that lead to a engine that is running to hot even though the temp gague show only about half way? Also would that have anything to do with my idle not being stable? When its cold its steady at 750 but when it warms up sometimes it will waver between 1000 and 250 and even sometimes stall.

While I had my exhaust manifold off I noticed that 5 of my exhaust valves were bone white and one of them was black. I've been trying to find a definative description of what the colors mean and what if anything should be done about it. Anyone have any info that might explain why one would be black while the others are white? Thanks