ejin4499

Ok so after way to much time I finaly got ahold of a m30 ecu. Every time I hit picknpull someone else had already been there. The maf on this sucker is freeking huge. will post picks soon. Im thinking what I want to do is create an adapter from the stock wiring harness to the new ecu. That way if I ever need to I can easily switch back to a pathfinder ecu. I think all I would need to do for that is run the lines for the m30 maf back to the m30 ecu and then canabalize an old ecu for connecters and solder that critter together. maybe ..... I think .......... we'll see.

I don't think that the bracket has any thread on it. If you grind the head off you might be able to just take the bracket off at that point. You could check the other holes and see if they have any thread on them.

If I remember right you don't need to take it out. You can get access to the tc bolts though the starter hole and just use the offset end wrench. I think. If that doesn't work you get at it from the top if you take out the exhaust manifold. You have the starter out already right?

Your talking about the plate that that mounts to the side of the engine and the tranny that has the hole that the starter goes through right? and your trying to get that off so you can get to the torque converter bolts that hold the tc to the flex-plate right? I think I skipped this part and used an offset ratcheting end wrench to disconnect the tc. If I remember right the bolts are pretty short. I had to take the exhaust manifold off to get some room to work with though. Good Luck

manual vs automatic are different.

If the bpt valve is no longer operational that means that no vacuum is being applied to your egr valve. Which means that it is never opening. This is not necessarily a bad thing and it wont throw a code on our trucks if its not working right. The egr attempts to reduces NOX emissions by diluting the intake air mix down so the engine runs a little cooler. If its not working right and you take it to get your truck smoged you may not pass smog due to high NOX emissions. If its missing altogether you wont even pass the visual inspection if they have that in your area.

LOL ya I read that too. I've had the motors out of two different pathfinders along with the transmissions from the same and I still haven't had to pull the front end.

Lol step 1 try to start it step 2 try again step 3 hit it with a hammer step 4 cuss at it Repeat step 5 clean it real good and reassemble

I know that is one of the most commonly rusted out parts in the salt belt but would it not be considerably less work/time to get someone from California or another state where they don't use salt on the roads to ship you the panel that you need? I've cruised through a dozen trucks easy here in the pick n pulls and not one of them has a rust spot on the rear pan. Just curious.

I chose to remove the radiator undo stuff from engine and motor mounts disconnect drive lines disconnect tranny mounts (This way the engine and tranny can wiggle up and down it makes it easier to get the bolts from around the bell housing. Was able to get the dreaded top bolt off with just a wrench and socket from the bottom of the truck) push transmission back as far as possible (tranny jack highly desirable but not required a regular rolling floor jack will work) pull engine forward off the last inch or so of transmission shaft lift motor straight up. careful to not park to close to the garage so your picker can raise without hitting the garage door frame. drop tranny any time or take out through the engine compartment. Supposedly there is a way to pull the engine and trans as a mated set I have not seen it done, but I would imagine that you would have to cut the cross piece that the radiator bolts to or drop the front suspension or both. HTH

I didn't happen to see what the listing was. Are you getting another wd21 or are you going to upgrade the engine to a vg33? Kudos on the auto to manual swap. Its not the hardest thing to do but feel free to PM me if you get stuck I just got done doing it myself. Regards ejin

check your connections on your ecu. The manual tells you how much voltage under what conditions to expect. I'm thinking either bad maf or bad O2 or bad ecu. I had a similar list of symptoms it ended up being the ecu that needed to be replaced. We checked all the voltages and when everything checked out we swapped the ecu. Problem solved. Good luck

Its still not easy as you still get compression (or should anyways) on the rest of the cylinders. If the heads are at relaxed all the valves are closed so you can turn it safely. What I mean by relaxed is if you turn the cam gear until it is held in place by the valve springs. You can still turn it but you feel a boat load of spring resistance. At that point the valves are closed enough to safly turn the crank and get it all back TDC. I would relax the heads (you should only need to turn a couple of teeth to get there) and then put the crank tdc then try and time the heads. Personaly I would consider finding a beater while you rebuild the engine/engine swap your pathy. Good luck.

if you raise the wages the vendors will raise the prices. Its a vicious cirlce without end. The only answer is stop earning wages and start earning revenue. Money is money its the mindset that changes. Man that looks like a beautiful place to live.

LOL thats what I heard. I don't think the vg30 has the same problem though I've been running with mine disconnected and haven't had a problem or an ses/cel light. I was able to reconnect the sensor to the harness without taking off the lower intake so I think I'll skip this project in deferment to the dubious wisdom of the Nissan engineers.

Hey thanks for the response. Don't worry about the pics I've had the upper and lower intakes off a couple times. Its not that big of a deal once you reroute the two small radiator hoses with longer hose. I like the idea of putting it on the bell housing. Do you know if he used the existing loom or rewired a new one. Also did he have to take apart the intake to get a drill in there or just used a really long extension? Thanks

Ok so I've been searching around about this knock sensor relocation to the top of the intake manifold. 1. its mostly people with an OBDII system who don't want to take apart there manifold to replace the stock one. 2. they are using a maxima KS and KS harness I assume but can't confirm that this is due to cost of parts I am wondering is this worth doing on a WD21 and since I don't have my current KS hooked up could I just use my existing wiring and a new Pathfinder KS on the top of the intake. Or is this just something that OBDII people are doing cause there ECU utilize there KS's more then our ECU does and leaving mine disconnected will be just fine. FYI no CEL is on at this time with it disconected. thanks

Just for giggles try disconecting you O2 sensor while your at idle. That might fix the rest of the rough idle. My vote is still on a dozen small vacuum leaks from the old hoses or dirty connections.

Vacuum or exhaust leaks? What condition are your rubber lines in? when you changed the oil was there water/gas/anything that didn't belong? go through page 127 - 132 on the service manual check all your electrical connections to the ecu. Make sure you didn't bend or break any pins on the ecu connection harness. check that you don't have any obviously damaged wires in the harness under the water level. You mentioned that it was in mud did you clean out the wireing harness ? If you got water and crap in there it could be shorting something out. I recomend 90% isopropyl alcohol( available at a pharmacy) distill white vinegar (this is not the stuff you use in salad dressing) then distilled water. DO NOT USE TAP WATER!!!!! Use each to gently rinse your ecm harness connector inside and out then allow to dry. The drying period is two days minimum with a fan blowing on it at all times. This is the process I use to clean keyboards and laptops when they get crap spilled on them. You may have spun a bearing if you over worked your engine getting back out of the mud.

Yes I have already replaced it before running this smog test

how exactly does one measure the functionality of the cat? I've already cleaned out the carbon from the egr. The wire I'll repair when I figure out why the solenoid gets a constant voltage that never disengages. I think I have a shorted wire somewhere. I'll rerun the diagnostic on the O2 sensor. Thanks for your reply.

So I cut the ground wire on the solenoid which allowes vacuum to get to the egr valve. Egr is always being used now instead of just at cruise but it worked for my smog test. only problem was it didn't work good enough. My NOX at 15 mph 2000 rmps was at 1040 roughly as opposed to 2500 so it made a huge difference just not enough. I think what the rest of the problem is the fact that I used to vg30 injectors when I put my vg33 block in. I think that while its running at the low speed the ecu is in a preprogramed mode and only allowing predetirmined amount through but with the larger displacement engine isn't enough gas to air, but when its running at 25 its paying attention to the O2 sensor and flowing more fuel into the chamber. Thats why my 25 mph at 2000 rpms always passed. If anyone has any thoughts even if its just to say I'm a dumb ass feel free to chime in. I know its been posted but I can't find it. Does anyone know the flowrate of the vg33 pink blue dot injectors is? I think the vg30 ones are somewhere around 180 cc/min or at least I just read that in the turbo build thread.

I did a set of thorleys and a custom midpipe. Thorleys did in my driveway in the rain under a tarp. (no I wasn't barefoot nor was there a midget with a chicken )

So I've been fighting CA smog checks and have finaly nailed down the problem to the egr solenoid valve. Basicaly the valve never cuts to manifold vacuum unless I unplug it from power. It alwas has current running to it. I can't figure out if I have a faulty ECU that never realizes that my rpms are at 2000 or some other issue. The truck drives great idles good so I don't think its my cam position sensor. Could someone post a pic of there solenoid valve so I can double check that I have my vacuum lines hooked up right. The vacuum diagrams aren't exactly in 3d. I am 90% certain I have it right but you never know. Any other thoughts would be appriciated. Thanks After thought If I diconect power and run it in for a test the egr valve should be opening and closing at that point and cooling my engine down for the test. The part that I am failing on is Nox at 15 miles. everything else is well below requirements. If I put a ecu from a 1990 vehicle that did not have a egr temp sensor would the imput from that sensor be ignored or would it be able to react to the temp readings from the sensor?

headed over to sacramento this week to pick one up. Gonna try this out looks like fun. Anyone know which ecu was better 90 91 92 or convertable or not?