ahardb0dy

sometimes if the belt is sitting too far down in the pulley it will squeal, this can be from the wrong size belt or if it is too tight.

don't think it matters, personal preference on whether you want a 2 or 4 door, TB or MPI

"I am going to weld in some balljoint spacers on top of the low profile bump stops to get maximum travel while retaining the 3" front lift." What do you mean by this? Where are you going to weld in the spacers? disregard below if this is what you meant If you still have the stock UCA's you could do what they used to do before the tubular arms came out and put a ball joint spacer between the UCA and the ball joint, this is the style UCA I had in my 87 hardbody as that is what was available at the time, never had a problem with them. Jim Connor racing ( the manufacturer) also welded in steel to close the bottom of the UCA to reinforce them, see below: this is the setup I had in my hardbody, although I never had the hoops welded in ( but still have them !!) triple shock setup AND THAN CAME THESE !!

what do you mean what year would be best? What year pathfinder to use?

sort of looks like this Warn, found using the internet time machine:

Just found this using the internet time machine: http://web.archive.o...nder_4inch.html and a component part diagram: ( give it a second it will load) http://web.archive.o...?image=NP43.gif

that doesn't look like a OEM part, may have been installed by the dealer. Sporting the kind of rare light bar as well !!

possibly someone installed a shift kit in the trans giving it firmer shifts?

some LKQ's are "you pull it" some are not

I think the rear shocks would be too short, and would limit the amount of flex, which would most likely kill the shocks, the front should be fine since your not increasing the distance between the upper and lower control arms your just changing the angle by raising the front end. I also have the adjustable shocks on my 94 SE and I usually keep them on the sport setting, eliminates some sway when on the highway.

now that I have the xterra rack on, I won't be removing the sunroof glass any time soon, I wish I didn't have the sunroof, never open it anyway and usually when it's closed all it does is add wind noise, well it did before I added some weatherstripping to the glass now it is quiet.

what about 4x4parts.com? they still sell complete kits and the individual parts if you want to go that way: https://www.4x4parts..._437_341_7.html The bump stops are the rubber stops that the upper and lower control arms hit when the suspension flexes, there is one under the upper control arm and one above the lower control arm, when you crank up the torsion bars ( tighten the adjuster bolt at the rear of the bars) it puts more tension on the bar which causes the lower control arm to be pushed down, this raises the front end giving more height, the higher you go the closer the upper control arm gets to the bump stop. The bad thing about cranking the bars is it makes the right stiffer and limits the amount of downward suspension travel, like if the tire fell into a hole the upper control arm would hit the bump stop. Some people remove the factory bump stop and replace it with a lower shorter profile one. Some times depending on where the rear torsion bar anchor is set when you crank the bars there may not be enough room for the anchor to move anymore so you need to "re-index" the bars, what this refers too is loosening the adjusting nut completely as if you were going to remove the torsion bar, taking the rear anchor off of the bar, turning it, and re-installing it on the bar so when you re tighten the adjuster bolt it will allow you to adjust the bars more. The stock torsion bars will only hold the additional amount of lift for so long, if you crank the torsion bars for more lift, that's why the aftermarket started making new torsion bars they can retain the cranked in lift longer. You will notice if you raise the front end using the bars after a while the front end will settle and drop down slightly. Your better off getting a pair of replacement upper control arms, they are made so you can crank the torsion bars up and still lets the ball joint sit at a good angle. You may be able to get about 2" of lift and still retain space between the upper control arm and the bump stop. A idler arm brace is a good idea if you plan to run larger tires and do a lot of 4 wheeling, in my experience the idler arm is the weak link on the Nissan's steering and will bend pretty easily. Was always amazed when my wife and I would go 4 wheeling, she had an 88 Toyota pickup with a 4" suspension and 33's, and I had my 87 hardbody with 33's,I could follow where ever she went and at the end of the day we would get back on the road and her truck would be fine and mine the idler arm would be bent !! Of course this didn't happen every time it depends on what type of 4 wheeling you do. I pulled a suburban running 36's off a hill one day that was high centered, the front end of my hardbody lifted up and when I started driving back down the road I could tell something was wrong, yes the idler arm was bent again!! here is my 94 when I bought it with the front end sitting all f--ked up from the previous owner not setting the bars correctly, and than a pic of how it is after I re-indexed the torsion bars to give you an idea: notice the pass. front tire how close the fender is and this pic the truck doesn't have the flare on: after and with the flare which sticks down about 2 inches, look at how much space is between the tire and the flare:

the bag isn't even padded or anything

I still have the one from my 87 hardbody !! might have had the glass in it once, still looks brand new My 94 is the thread type I think, I remember when I found the shade it had the twist type but I pulled a few of the plastic screws out of another car that the shade was messed up.

Definitely notice a difference down here in hot as hell Florida !! LOL I got lucky and found one at the junkyard a while back, almost didn't see it, the shade wasn't on the sunroof glass or in the truck, when I started to walk away from the PF I noticed something laying on the roof and there it was !

just found a guy on e-bay selling the 2 plastic screws for $30 !! Not sure if this is the right part number, 73893W9070, but if it is online dealer has them for $1.74 each

you ran the grounds from the lights back up to where the relay is mounted? I would have tried to keep the grounds as short as possible, usually I will loop the ground wire back up to the mounting bolt. You probably know this already but just in case you don't, relay numbers and where they go: 30 - 12 volts from positive battery ( with a fuse) 85 - ground 86 - 12 volts in from switch 87 - output to lights some relays have an extra terminal 87A - when relay is off this terminal has power, when relay is on 87 has power and this one does not, also referred to as a "changeover" relay Going to bed almost 2:30 here good luck, will check back in tomorrow.

Myself I would keep it, I would rather have no car payments and as was said already you know your truck and you have us if you need help.

the plastic screws should be easy to take out to swap what ever style you have, think they just have like a "C" clip holding them in. Good find on the xterra shade, (not like xterra's are any easier to find in the junkyards!! LOL)

Just to test the lights. So you have constant power to the relay, switched power, ground and output to the lights which are grounded, do the lights ground thru the mount or separate wire? does the relay have the numbers on the bottom next to the terminals? Make sure the wires are at the right terminals, you can have constant and switched power to the relay but still have the wires in the wrong place. I would just touch the wire from the battery to the wire going to the lights to make sure the lights work.

Guess I got lucky when I found my Warns at the junkyard for $14 each

try jumping the input wire to the output wire to see if you get anything at the light

I would make sure the relay is wired correctly and if so try another relay. You say you are getting 9 volts at the output of the relay, what do you have going into the relay or at the battery? You shouldn't lose 3 volts thru a relay. What lights are they? Are the bulbs 12 volts? I've seen some bulbs from Hella that come in 24 volt.

Found a pair of Fabtech UCA's on craigslist near me, I think the seller is out of his mind as to the price but wanted to see if anyone is running these and if they are any good? Also found someone selling a brand new in the package idler arm brace for $40, says he paid $50 for it.

I think cranking the torsion bars until the upper control arms hit the stock bump stops would limit the amount of lift before effecting either the ball joints or the cv axles. If you were to install low profile bump stops to gain more lift than the cv axles and ball joints may come into play as to having too much angle.