ahardb0dy

NO problems with the OEM distributor cap cover, When I had the K&N on mine I made a spacer out of 1/2" plexi and the adapter they sell in the auto parts, the plexi helps isolate the air filter from the heat of the engine to lower intake air temps. Just kidding I made that up !! The plastic adapter didn't line up with the holes in the MAF sensor so I used the plexi to adapt the holes to meet up. I ended up taking it off and going back to stock as I couldn't stand hearing it any longer ! I used one of the stock air box mounts with one end straightened to support the air filter

Sold it !

you told him to take them out...... Ah, you wanted new one's anyway ! LOL

My 90 sentra ( pretty soon formerly owned ! LOL) does the same thing right now, when I fill it, it goes to full than 5 minutes later it may say 3/4 or it may read empty, when the gauge was working semi normal it never went to full and when it was on empty it usually meant 1/4. I could leave work with the gauge below the "E" and drive 30 miles towards home, stop and fill it and it would only take 10 gallons out of the 13.2 gallon tank ! But getting 29 MPG helped too !! I did see the low fuel light a couple times come on in the pathfinder.

meant just make "note" Welcome, When I re-indexed mine I banged on them with a rubber mallet as I tried to remove them and mine came right out.

I would jack up under the control arms to take the tension off the bars than loosen the adjusting bolts until you can remove the bars, no need to match up the slpines just make not of where the rear adjuster is before you remove them so you can put them back on in the same place. Can't help further with the clutch never owned a manual trans Nissan truck.

Rust and an oil leak, hope it gets warm up there you have work to do !!

rotated your pic:

I used Supertech 5W30 Dino oil when I changed the oil a week ago, I've heard good things about Supertech oil.

If you feel the vibration in the steering wheel it's coming from the front, if you feel it in the seat it's the rear (typically) If you are at the speed where the vibration happens and put the truck in neutral will the vibration go away?

I found one in the local junkyard one time out of a 2wd and tried it in a WD but I thought it fit too tight so I didn't pick it up. After today won't have to worry as my next truck will have cup holders, 2wd hardbody !

I would agree and say it is a problem with the contact ring on the back of the steering wheel, My 94 was like that where the cruise and horn would only work when the wheel was in certain positions. When you say it doesn't always start what exactly is it doing or not doing? Does it crank but not start? Not crank over at all? Make clicking noises?

I removed all that when I had my old 87 hardbody including the metal pipe that runs down to the cat, we took the pipe out of the exhaust manifold, cut it leaving about an inch of pipe out of the nut, crimped it in a vise than brazed it closed. I also was running a test pipe for a while too until I put a high flow cat in.

I wonder if you notch the sides of the console where it won't interfere with the inside storage area so the seat belt receptacles aren't so tight to the seats?

The float possibly may have a hole in it and is filling with gas causing it to sit lower than it should.

Depending on where the valve cover is leaking you may smell oil burning, if it is leaking onto the exhaust, or if it is leaking from the rear of the valve covers you may see it running down the top of the tranny. If it is wet in the area between the engine and trans under the truck, and no oil can be seen above the bottom of the engine than most likely it is the rear main seal. Have you checked any of the bolts on either valve cover yet to see if they are, or how loose they are? I know there are only a few that are accessible on the drivers side, but it may give you an idea on how the rest are, if some or all the accessible bolts are loose you pretty much can bet the in accessible one's will be too.

Not necessarily in a pathfinder but in a Nissan, anyone ever repair/rebuild the fuel sender rheostat? Need to get my fuel gauge to work in my sentra and only the dealer sells the fuel sender assembly and I really don't want to spend $193, can't find one in the junkyards, I guess 90's are getting harder to come by as time goes by. Thanks

any way to rebuild the rheostat for the fuel sender?

pretty sure the seal only goes in one way, so make sure to pay attention to that. This is from Nissanut's site when he did the VG33 swap, he gave me permission to re-post the pictures:

Did you check the Upper control arm bolts? Funny I mention that, I did brakes on my step daughters Tahoe today and she was telling me every time she backs out of the driveway she hears a clunk noise, so as soon as I raised the caliper I saw the upper control arm rear side move, I tried to move it with a large screw driver and it moved, Turns out the UCA bolt was loose !

I read a thread where a guy had one of those York compressors and even without a tank was able to air up his tires relatively quick, must put out some good air volume I guess

I really liked the E-code's, I drove the PF tonight to go pickup dinner, first time with the DOT Hella's and the low beam looks the same as my E-code, high beam isn't as bright due to the bulb wattage but they put out some good light. The E-codes and the DOT version both have a nice cut off for the upper area where the light is spread out, I can drive behind a pickup and the light will shine on the tailgate but none shines above the tailgate into the drivers vision. I know when I was researching the E-code headlights you have to be careful because in some Countries overseas they drive on the left side of the road and some they drive on the right as we do in the US. So you need to make sure the E-code headlight is designed for RHD traffic. Mine are. The 100 Watt high beams is like having two 7" off road lights !!

I have the E-code (European not DOT approved) Hella headlights in my pathfinder, I converted over to the hardbody style headlights a while ago, I just had a chance to take a pic of the DOT approved Hella's so I wanted to post the pics as a comparison, I also included a normal Halogen sealed beam for comparison. Sealed beam, notice all the fluting in the lens: DOT approved Hella with H4 bulb: Non DOT approved E-code Hella: I can't compare the light output between the DOT and non DOT Hella's as my E-code headlights have 55 watt low 100 watt high bulbs and the DOT hella's have the legal wattage bulbs of 55 watt low/65 watt high and I haven't driven the truck with the DOT Hella's at night.

What brace are you talking about?

Have you checked the 2 bolts (each side) that hold the upper control arm on to the frame to make sure they are not loose?