ahardb0dy

12.50's on a 7" wheel is pushing it, the 33x10.50's would be fine on the lego wheels

What do you mean the 12.50's rubbed on the tension rod mount? Do you mean when turning? If that was the problem the steering stops could be adjusted. In fact I beleive the steering stops are set differently depending on if the PF (or pickup) came with the smaller tires stock compared to if the truck came stock with 31's. I had 33 & 35, 12.50's on the proper offset 15 x 8 wheels and also on 15 x 10's on my old hardbody, ( I know the HB body sits higher than the PF but don't think that would effect the tire rubbing on the tension rod), and my tires never came close to rubbing on the frame or the tension rod mounts.

After being away for a week (cruise) When we got home Saturday I started it to make sure it still starts, nothing else as since we have been home I have been sick and have not gone out of the house.

I first saw a factory brush guard back in 87 when I bought my hardbody and always thought it was the best one available, the one I saw was mounted very solidly to the truck it was on which made me want one, so I bought one. Of course I would never have tried to tow off of it but I liked the fact that when you pulled on the brush guard the whole truck moved.

so this projection assembly goes inside the housing and sticks out the rear slightly so a nut can be screwed on right? I wonder if a sealed beam conversion type headlight has more room than the PF style headlight does??

Is there anyway you could space the grille out slightly to make the headlights not look like they are sticking out so far? I may look into doing that to give the lights in my grille some more clearance

First I want to say Nice job on the conversion. Anyway you can post a pic of what the projector assembly looks like before inserted into the housing? Disregard I saw your link. I appreciate the time it took you to do this mod and it is true everyone has their own opinion so here is mine, I like what you did but I too do not like how far the headlights stick out, but it's your truck and your project so you being satisfied with how it turned out is all that matters. If people didn't modify things we would all be driving around with the exact same trucks, GOOD JOB Keep it up!!

Anytime, as someone added the hardest part is lining up those 2 bolts but once you do one side the other will go easier

Thanks, I'll make a junkyard trip in a couple weeks, we're leaving this Saturday to head down to Ft Lauderdale, going on a cruise, leaves next Sunday so will be gone for the week.

This is how I did mine: removed center cap and loosened lugs Jacked up one side at a time under the control arm, I put one of the tabs on my floor jack cradle(not sure what you call it) into the hole on the bottom of the control arm removed lug nuts and tire placed a jack stand under the control arm right where the lower ball joint is lowered floor jack to put weight of truck on the jackstand but left the floor jack under the arm for safety removed rear nut with wrench, 1/4 turn at a time (15/16"), No way was I getting a socket in that small area !! removed rear washer and bushing loosened 2 nuts on the bolts that hold the tension rod to the control arm, I used a 3/4" ratchet I have with a 1/2" adapter that I use as a ratcheting breaker bar removed the 2 bolts slid tension rod forward into control arm and removed front bushing and sleeve the one side the sleeve wouldn't just slide off so removed the tension rod with the front bushing and sleeve still on the rod removed the tension rod wire brushed the thread on the 2 bolts and the rear of the tension rod, made sure the surface the sleeve sits on was clean and smooth, wiped the holes in the frame down reassembled slid arm back into control arm placed front washer and bushing on new sleeve in place and held there while sliding the tension rod thru the sleeve thru the hole in the frame mount, you can also put a bushing on the sleeve and insert the sleeve thru the hole in the frame from the rear side than put the front bushing on the sleeve and insert the tension rod thru the sleeve placed rear bushing onto sleeve placed rear washer over tension rod installed rear nut and tightened until nut stopped I used a screwdriver thru the hole in the control arm and thru the tension rod to stop the tension rod from turning while tightening the rear nut used screwdriver to line up one of the holes in the control arm with the tension rod hole installed one bolt and nut did not fully tighten yet had to pry on end of bar, side of bar to get 2nd hole to line up installed 2nd bolt and nut tightened both nuts double checked rear nut and rechecked 2 nuts and bolts going thru control arm put tire back on put lug nuts back on jacked up truck and removed jack stand lowered floor jack and removed tightened lug nuts and installed center cap went to other side

Took my wife to the store in the PF, it was also a test drive after replacing the tension rod bushings, all ok. Also stole a rear grab handle from the PF to use in my sentra!! LOL

Well the sentra now has a pass. side grab handle, the 2 holes were there under the headliner and the trim didn't even need to be notched as the handle mounts above the trim !!! Didn't even have to measure anything for the screw holes as the empty holes had made an impression on the back side of the headliner, all I did was use a right angle scribe and poked a hole in the center of the impression and than made it larger with a Phillips screwdriver from the front side, done! oh, the PF is minus one rear grab handle for now!! LOL

Well the sentra is the lowest base model and I don't think they started installing them from the factory until the 91 year, I bet the bolt holes are in the roof though. I've added a lot of parts that my car didn't come with and so far everything was there (bolt holes, cavities for the seat belts,etc.) My car didn't come with the remote fuel door and trunk release or normal seat belts but all the necessary holes were there, it didn't even come with a pass. side door switch for the dome light just a rubber plug, but the wire was tucked inside the body just had to put a switch in and plug it in.

Thanks, I noticed the outer bushings looked like they were all cracked so I figured it was time to replace them, they are probably original knowing my buddy that I bought the truck from!! Hardest part was getting the 2 bolts in the control arm to line up and taking the rear nut off with a wrench a 1/4 turn at a time took a few minutes. It's funny I get this deja vu feeling when ever I replace something on the PF, like I did it before..... Probably because I have !! on the ole Hardbody!! LOL

So, how do plastic shavings in your coffee taste?? I need to pull the trim on my sentra as there is no "oh @!*%" handle on the pass. side and after driving the PF to work and my buddy always holding on to the PF's handle he reaches up in the sentra and I always say, :there's o handle there" LOL, Guess I drive to crazy for him !! LOL

Finally got around to replacing the Tension Rod bushings today here are some pics, Pass side: Pass side shaft, clean: Pass side bushings and sleeve: Pass side one old bushing showing hole elongated slightly: Pass side old vs new (Moog part): Dr. Side, outer bushing came right off, inner bushing I had to use a meter wrench (from work) to remove the bushing, Sleeve did not want to come off right away but I got it finally: all the cups on the frame mounts were intact and in good shape.

The red color is not so rare down here, most PF's I see in the junkyards have the red interior, I personally hate it.

I agree the brown spots that are left behind after cleaning are the result of letting the brake dust remain on the wheels for a long time, after a while it won't come off as it gets embedded into the surface. When I bought my 94 PF from my buddy the wheels were like that as all he ever did was put gas in it and drive it, he never does/did any cleaning or preventative maintenance. After I bought it I think I used some wheel cleaner I had lying around, no idea what brand it was and I probably used some purple power also, I did use a toothbrush to get in all the hard to reach places, most of the brake dust did come off but if the wheels were neglected there will be areas that will not come clean. I'm sure you have all seen my pics where I re-painted the center caps, using the wheel cleaner with the toothbrush and a razor blade to scrape off all the old paint. The color I used was like aluminum or something I think and they may not match the stock wheel color but they look pretty close. after cleaning with painted center cap: If you are considering painting the wheels why not just prep them and paint them the same color since you said you may not want to paint them black as the truck is black. I think the way the lego wheels lool with all the nooks and cranny's are part of the reason I bought new wheels when I lifted my old hardbody, ease of cleaning plus needed a wider wheel for the larger tires.

Haven't done it yet but today I will replace the negative battery terminal with the Streetwires one I just received in the mail, now both terminals will match. And I also plan on picking up a set of Moog strut rod bushings and replacing them. does anyone know if the strut rod from a hardbody is the same as the one on the pathfinder> I had an extra one in storage and figured I would bring it home just in case one of the PF one's was wore down, thanks never mind last question I just checked on Nissan Fast and cross referenced the PF part and it is the same

When I had my 01 dakota with the 4.7 V8 I put a cat back on it from flowmaster that included a delta flow 50 series muffler, 2.5" in single 3" out, I went with single out because I had read a larger single pipe makes more HP than 2 smaller pipes, anyway the 50 series was louder than stock but not louder enough for my tastes (I wasn't looking for something obnoxious just wanted it to sound good), so I ordered a 40 series and had it swapped in for the 50 and it sounded 100 % better, still not over the top but I think the cat back kit should have came with the 40 instead of the 50. The delta flow 50 series was also much longer than the 40. As to Nissan applications on my 87 hardbody with no cat and 2.25" stainless pipe from the cat back (well from the test pipe back I should say), I originally had a flowmaster, (there were no series numbers for the mufflers back than as when I had it put on flowmaster had just become available). The flowmaster sounded real good but it evenutally cracked on the bottom, and working in a 4x4 shop and getting a mega discount I than switched to a Supertrapp which was ok for a while but a pain in the butt to adjust. From there I switched to a Borla SS muffler and that was still on the truck when I traded it in for the dakota. So having had both the 40 and 50 series flowmasters I would have to say the 40's are def louder but depending on what they are used on would effect how loud they would be. There is a video on here of my hardbody in 4 low with the Borla and I think it sounded pretty good. OP said the stock pipe is only 1 7/8?? I didn't think it was that small Just a suggestion we should have a topic with just exhaust sound clips so others can hear the differences between the different setups people are running.

I heard pink may be a color option off topic 1 sec, Nunya this color better for you? see I had pink parts too way back, might be why I never installed these !! LOL back on topic, sorry

one reason I know of is because when on inclines (hills) the engine will stall.

Not sure if the OD tranny is the same basic design as the older non-OD tranny but the first time I had my tranny rebuilt in my old 87 hardbody the tranny shop told me first and reverse are on the same clutch pack, and when one goes out the other is soon to follow. Can't recall what I lost first.

Thanks, I did go thru the whole tire thread after my post on here and it really amazes me on how so many people have nothing but good things to say about this tire than add they don't do good in the mud, well it isn't a mud terrain so I wouldn't expect it too!! LOL Thanks for the reply I think I will get a set when I finally get new tires.

Just ordered the negative terminal from Parts express, I had a $7 credit so order came out to $17, now the 2 terminals will match and hopefully no problems down the road with bad terminals.