silverton

that looks like the same cherry bomb I have on my rig!

Well the thing with WD21's and the autos is that they are prone to failure, the stock tranny cooler clogs and reduces flow of the fluid so they over heat. Which is kind of what happens when they are ran low on fluid. your best bet is to stop driving it until you get an aftermarket cooler installed and the proper fluid level is obtained. But since it's slipping already, the damage has been done.

oh snap! literally. Now I'm scared with mine, cause one side has the use of 4 shims!

Probably just a jack to hold the weight while you unbolt it.

Some people here must have really tired engines. I have to watch myself or I will "merge" with freeway traffic at 80+. And that's with an MPFI truck with 198,000 miles and an auto with the 4.6 gears. But I'm not sure if I would feel safe going any faster than 90 in it...

Well, I know the AT computer is on the passenger side in one of the fender area. so could be the ABS one.

if there is any kind of leak on the engine side of the air flow sensor, your vehicle is going to run like absolute @!*%, because it's unmetered air. After the silicone dries on your intake pipe, she should be good as new!

check your air intake tube for cracks.

I would hold out for another truck if it needs other repairs. Sentimental or not, it's just a truck on jack stands in your driveway if it needs any kind of major repair. I paid $725 for my truck, it needed a transmission and was pretty mint before I turned it in to a daily driving wheeler. Here's my intro thread with pics. Oh, and might I add, not a lick of rust, but completely different markets. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25574&view=findpost&p=470177

That is something that was started by the quick lube places. I will admit I take mine to one of those places, but only because I hate dealing with the oil filter and the used oil. Though this last time I went, the sticker didn't have the next change recommended at a 3k interval, it was 5k!

Yeah, it's basically only really needed when you are out wheeling.

Do a tune up. Replace the six spark plugs Replace the distributor rotor. Replace the distributor cap. Replace the oxygen sensor. Replace the air filter. Change the oil. Maybe even replace the spark plug wires themselves!

The saying around the forum goes "3 + 3 == 33's" Which means a 3" body lift, and a 3" suspension lift means 33's are perfect. One of the main reasons of doing a body lift is to fit bigger tires, and I'm sure you could go as big as 35". But as said in previous posts, more info about your current wheels are needed. Do you have the stock legos that came on the SE trucks? or do you have the steelies that were on the XE/LE trucks? Or do you have aftermarket wheels, which means wheels not put on your nissan from the factory. I run stock toyota wheels on mine, but they are still considered "aftermarket".

I'm diggin it! looks flashier than the stock one too!

Right now I have a magnet mount antenna til I'm about to get a whip mount, which will be going on my tire carrier. You obviously don't have that option. BUT, my magnet mount antenna sticks above the roof probably about 3.5-4', went wheelin the other day and heard it hit stuff all day long, it's still in the same spot and undamaged!

4x4? Sounds to me like an auto hub may have decided to go on the fritz. The auto locking pin only partially protruding would hit the holes but not fully engage and make a sound like the one you're describing. not a clue how you found a meat cleaver or if it even came from your truck!

on the WD21 the trim level is just a sticker. As all the options were available on all the trucks. So you could get a truck that says XE on the back, but is exactly the same as an SE. Edit: I saw a '90 four door in the yard with manual windows and door locks with a 5spd trans, so, super base model right? But it had a sunroof and a tire carrier.

I have a 95 auto with slightly different interior pieces, I mounted it to the right of the auto shifter. One suggested, you'll want your whip a bit higher than that. You'll get better receive/send range if you have more of the whip sticking up over the roof of your vehicle.

They all clog as far as I know, and the aftermarket ones don't really have anywhere for the "sediment" to settle, as it's just a tube running between fins. Where as the one in the radiator is it's only little compartment area and such.

If you have a LSD, you need to put in limited slip additive. Even if you don't have a limited slip, or maybe unsure, I'd put in limited slip additive. I put some 80'ish/140'ish gear oil in mine with an LSD additive, but that's only because I know I have a LSD. But, unless you're in Australia, you most definitely do not have a LSD in the front.

That's exactly where it is, and Mister510 talked to one of his buddies (he knows everyone who knows nissans) about my problem and said that the ABS module gets bled first, and then the rear wheels.

my ABS light is just on, and I have similar problems. When you double pump does the pedal stiffen up? My pedal goes much farther than it should, and I have done exactly what you've done. Bled all five bleeders til it was clear fluid coming out. Be sure to bleed the ABS unit before you bleed the rear's! But when I double pump the pedal on the second pump it's stiff as a rock and I could make the truck stand on its nose.

if your button lights up on the dash, but won't engage (and turn the light on in the cluster) you could have a faulty switch. On mine, the Resume/Accel button does not work, and the cancel button will work if I press it real hard and wiggle it around. The Set/Decel button works fine though, thankfully!

I doubt you'll notice a difference. the amount of braking that the rear end does is so minimal. Basically the only reason switching from drum to disc is purely cosmetic and ease of changing pads as opposed to shoes.

Those look like AC UCA's which are known to not correct the ball joint angle correctly. I actually just put AC UCA's and rear springs on my pathfinder. aside from a panhard drop bar bracket for the rear track bar, that's about all you need to do a SL on a pathy, along with longer rear shocks. the Rancho RS5116 is what I used. the rear springs only actually raised me up 2" but my truck seemed to sit a little high anyway, 34" from the ground to the lip of the fender, and I'm now 36"