- Sign In Changes: You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password. Using your display name and password is no longer supported.
- If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.
-
Posts
1,710 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
14
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Everything posted by JamesRich
-
I hate to prove you wrong because you sound so confident, but YOUR WRONG! The 86.5 and 87 were the only one with a sub fuel gauge that I know of. I have an 88 owner’s manual and it doesn’t show the sub gauge. The sending unit in the tank actually had two rheostats and two floats. One for the main gauge and a small one for the sub gauge. Picture from the 87 FSM (the 87 pics are all scanned by hand) Picture of the wiring for the 87, notice two rheostats on the fuel tank gauge unit. Here a pic from the 94 FSM, it only shows the main rheostat. Picture of the wiring for the 94, only one rheostat. The FSM doesn't have a pic of the sender for the low fuel light but if you ever pulled a sender you will see instead of a rheostat it has a small tube with a floating metallic coated ball. (I'm assuming it's a ball, I never cut one open) When the fuel level drops the ball drops down in the tube and touches a contact turning on the light. See the little tube with the wire going to it? Nissan is not lazy or stupid, they would not put a more expensive sender in a vehicle that does not need it. If your light gets brighter as your fuel level drops it's probably because the metallic ball is dirty and doesn't make good contact when it is lightly touching the ground in the tube. If by chance your tank unit has two rheostats it's because someone replaced it with a unit from an 87 which would be very rare so you need to pull it and send it to me so I can get my sub gauge working. Someone replaced mine before I got the truck with the unit for the light. I have never seen the dual gauge unit. James
-
If your pathy was running fine before you changed the alternator, check your intake hose from the MAF to the throttle body. I'm sure you had to remove it to replace your alternator, so you might not have put it back on right or it might have a crack in it from moving it. Also I agree with everyone else, you got a crap rebuild. It should charge at idle too. Bring that thing back! James
-
You could alway buy one like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UO4cw565V98&feature=related 12.5 quarter mile on land and 60 mph on water. Damn shame they made it look like a dodge though. James
-
I've been wondering why no one tried an electronic flasher yet. Does the pathfinder take a regular two prong flasher? I used to replace them on big trucks, they could add all the lights they wanted and it would still flash at the same rate. Since I'm old this was back in the day before anyone in automotive knew what an LED was. Some drivers added so many lights to their rig (they called them chicken lights) they kept burning alternators and would end up having to buy $1000 alternators that pushed over 500 amps. Thats a lot of money just to look like a christmas tree rolling down the road! James
-
My 87 is only at 115K. A guy posted a while back about a pathy that was given to him by relatives that only had 78K. It was used as a winter truck only. James
-
Longer Shock Options for WD21 Pathfinder
JamesRich replied to Nefarious's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Do the F350 shocks bolt right on? I got some F150 shocks and had to push the bushing out the bottom and use the nissan bushings from my old shocks because the lower mount hole on the F150 shocks was too small. Also do you go with a heavy duty bronco II shock in the front? I would think that a shock in the front from a compact truck the size of ours and a shock for a 1 ton truck in the back would be quite unbalanced. James -
I want to see pics too! I always lower my 2wd vehicles a little. I dropped the back of my titan a couple of inches so it would sit more level and not look like it's just on the two front wheels when stopping fast. It looked like I was doing a stoppy in my truck! I like the lowered look but not dragging the pavement, it still needs to be practical. This is a pathfinder forum, your not the only 2wd on here. James
-
We need pics of said header fitment. James
-
Another Caution; don't let the wife find out you post comments about her on a world wide forum! You'll be in the dog house for weeks! James
-
I wish they offered these factory cup holders in America
JamesRich replied to jwblue's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Go ahead and rub it in why don't you! While it's 28 degrees here with a 10 to 15 mph wind and 100% humidity! Also about the drinking and driving comment. Down here in south Louisiana, if you drive around in a big truck you would be surprised how many beers you see in peoples laps at any time of the day. They don't use a cup holder, just clamp it between their legs. James -
Fix the short. If it's blowing 20 amp fuses something has to be shorted. Is it just when you plug in the trailer? If it is remove all the bulbs from the trailer and test the wires with an ohm meter. With no bulb none of the wires should show any continuity to ground. If the trailer is pretty old just save yourself a headache and rewire it. James
-
I'm sure they are the same size but your front tire looks way bigger than the back in this picture! James
-
My truck has 4.3 gears too. According to your spread sheet If I put 4.9 gears and 35" tires It will only be 20 RPMs different at 60 mph. Won't even have to change the speedometer gear. James
-
Sweet! So I can do 120 mph in first gear if I can get the motor up to 23,127 rpm! That shouldn't be too hard for a nissan, maybe just need a larger fuel pump. Good job on the spread sheet! James
-
The more you explain the easier it sounds! I figured the A/C had to be opened which isn't a big deal. My pathy came with R12 where as my parts truck came factory with 134 freon and it was still working when I parked it. I've converted mine to 134 and it works pretty good but I will probably put the condenser from my parts truck on it too, it should be a little bigger. Thanks for the info! James
-
Cool, doesn't sound too bad. I was thinking about bolting it back instead of welding so it could be repositioned if its not perfect. Is the front body mount connected to the radiator support? Does the wiring harness snake through it or is it just clipped to it? I believe the A/C will have to be disconnected too right? I haven't looked through it really good yet. I may have some troubles lining it all up because I know my frame is a little higher on one side because I had to shim my bumper. I know it won't be fun but It will be nice to have a straight panel to bolt everything up to. Thanks guys! James
-
I wouldn't paint the chrome, the gray grill I got in the pick a part needs a paint job. I got pissed yesterday while looking on rock auto, they have the gray 95 grill new for $17 I paid $15 for one that needs a paint job! I got a side clearance light for $5 too which was good, they cost $29 at rock auto. James
-
My pathy was wrecked before I bought it and fixed halfassed. When I put my bumper on I had to shim the passenger fender ALOT to make it line up. I'd like to replace my grill and head lights but don't want to make them fit. Rock auto sells a new radiator support or I could pull the one from my 94 parts truck. It doesn't look like its all bolt on though, has anyone done this before to shed some light for me? James
-
That looks good! I am debating on a different grill for mine. I have the 87 grill thats on it that I finally found a nissan emblem for, a chrome grill and clearance lights from my parts truck, and a 95 grill that needs a paint job. I don't think the chrome will look good with my black bumper but I'm undecided between leaving the 87 or painting the 95. James
-
looks like you have some tight spots! Could just be the way it appears in the pictures. Anxious to see it all completed. James
-
Cool, post some pics when you get them mounted up of how they exit under the truck. James
-
So what do you think about the OBX headers? I looked for reviews on google and found all good. They are stupid cheap on ebay. No Y pipe so I guess you will have to make your own. James
-
For the concealed holsters, are you going to make a universal type or specific gun? I mounted a old uncle mikes paddle holster in my titan console, but it will only hold my 1911. Most paddle holsters bolt to the paddle so I just drilled two holes inside the console and bolted it in there. Titan has a big ass console though. James
-
Ok I figured that. I'm not really looking right now I would just hate to pass one up for the cheap prices at pick a part. James
-
My local pick a part has a 84 grand wagoneer. Is this the axle I need for an SAS? It has some kind of vacuum valve on the chunk I assume is for engaging the front axles, can this be bypassed and just use locking hubs? James
