colinnwn

Are the LR springs really that much of a load carrying improvement over AC 2" springs? I was wanting to fix the slight nose high stance when towing my trailer. Without the trailer I don't want too much rake. If they are likely to compress a lot less under 350 lbs, it's really surprising they aren't harsh, because my AC springs are plenty harsh, at least on Dallas potholes. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

For historical sake, per this thread, looks like 60742 will work on up to 2" of spring lift.

I was searching my email for a reply from Air Lift company, and this thread notification came up, which is the exact question I recently posted about whether part 60742 was good with a 2 inch lift. Great to know it works. Don't know why it didn't come up when I did a forum search before posting my thread. What are the white spring seats at the bottom in the pics? Its been 10 years since I installed my lift, but I didn't remember there being anything down there besides the metal seat and rubber sleeve around part of the spring. Doesn't look OEM either. Is it to increase height? I just saw in Towndawg's signature it says he has a 2" rear spacers. I'm going to assume that's what it is. It doesn't look 2 inches lift though. It looks like it would be about 1 inch lift and 1 inch of rim around the edge.

I'm thinking of putting on Air Lift bags on my Pathfinder for towing a small travel trailer with about 350 lb tongue weight. Air Lift says the right model is 60742 if you have the OE springs. https://www.airliftcompany.com/shop/60742/ I have the AC 2" lift springs, and the trailer compresses my rear springs just over 2 inches making the truck ride a little nose high, considering the normal rake. Has anyone installed the Air Lift bags on their Pathfinder with 2" lift springs? Does that same model number work, or is there another with taller bags? Any install tips as far as needing to drill the hole to exit the inflation tube? Extra spacers or bumpstops needed inside the spring to make it work, or anything else? Thanks.

No controller necessary. Can go straight to the battery. I put a 40 amp fuse in it immediately after the battery. But I did wire mine through a relay, that is controlled off of the fuel pump relay switched line, so if the engine isn't running, the trailer could never run down the car battery. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Of course thats very easy to do. My 7 pin connector I installed had a 4 pin plug in the back to just plug it in to. It also has a 4 pin on the front so if you need to tow something with that, you don't need another adapter. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

If you don't have a 4 wire trailer plug already, you can either get the factory adapter, or this device from Curt that has factory plugs to splice into your left rear brake light. If you want to manually do this by splicing in yourself, there are several other generic versions of this. But I wouldn't mess with it. https://www.suspensionconnection.com/55361-nissan-pathfinder-trailer-wiring-kit.html Good luck. It took me several years of on and off work to get my 7 pin plug and electric trailer brakes installed. I already had the 4 pin. I estimate at least 20 hours of work and 20 hours of research. But I was being too picky about how I did it. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Best I can tell from looking at mine, and the FSM, manual transmission Pathfinders don't have an oil cooler. Is that not true? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I didn't think to specifically ask the mechanics to check and replace the PCV valve as necessary. But the 2nd mechanic to do the 2nd and 3rd valve cover gaskets has an excellent reputation and I assume he would have at least checked it. There was actually a 3rd mechanic between the 1st and 2nd valve cover gasket replacements, who said I had a leak there, and at the rear main seal, and the oil pan. It's such an oily mess down there I don't know how they can tell. The mechanic who did the 2nd/3rd valve cover gasket replacement, said he didn't see other oil leaks he could identify. The obvious oil leaks on the pavement, and the burning oil smell when not moving, have stopped after the 3rd valve cover gasket replacement. The smell had been coming from under the hood. Occasionally I had seen a tiny wisp of smoke from under the hood. And as the 1st and 2nd valve cover gaskets started failing, it started losing 2 quarts a month. There is oil all over the bottom end of the engine front to back. It probably contributed to 2 alternator deaths on me. By the time I got it in each time, it was losing 1 quart every 2 days. There was oil all over the pavement at the back of the engine at that point. There is a little carbon in the tail pipe. But it doesn't seem oily or smoky, just more "gassy" smelling then when it had fewer miles on it. But that isn't a bother except when I'm hooking up my trailer. I had read in one thread that these engines tend to have a little too much taper in the bore, and loose oil control rings that lead to oil consumption, especially when decelerating under high manifold vacuum. And that the PCV baffle system on the passenger side is poor, and there is a revised valve cover to address it. I have no idea if there is any truth to that. I can replace the PCV valve this fall when the weather's better. It is mildly frustrating it is such a long job for something that should be easy to check/replace, and may not be a problem. I didn't expect the oil catch can to really fix anything. It was more to see if there is a more extensive issue internally to the engine, recover some octane lost if there is lots of oil mist coming through, and help decide if I should double down on looking for more leaks. It is a manual transmission, so no power control valves or screws to fall out. Also from looking at the engine, and reviewing the FSM, it appears there is no oil heat exchanger to leak on the manual transmission engines like is common with the automatic transmission engines. Any ideas you have would be welcome. Thanks.

Thanks for the detail. I've seen a lot of other threads that suggest installing a catch can on these particular engines as they age. Yours is the first recommending against it. I've spent $1,000 over 3 years replacing the valve cover gaskets twice (really 3 times but the 3rd was covered under the 2nd replacement warranty) to stop the smoky smell. I'm still losing about 1 qt per month (about every 1,200 miles). Not sure if that is the engine eating it, or leaking during operation at this point. Though I'd like to figure out. It used substantially less than that until about 3 years ago. Guess I'll have to 2nd guess the catch can.

At this point, at least on the 2001 models with the cable driven throttle body, I'm pretty certain the PCV vent can't be going into the throttle body or anything before it including the plastic intake boot. I can't see the hose at all. All I see is the hose coming out of the driver side valve cover into the intake boot. Should the oil catch can go off the driver vent and into the intake boot? I thought I saw on another forum where someone said that was the wrong place for it, they tried it anyway because it was easy to access, and they didn't collect any oil. If not, I'm not sure that the PCV valve side can be plumbed into an oil catch can without removing the upper intake. It doesn't seem there would be any clearance under there even after removing the throttle body, if it enters the metal intake runner behind the throttle body. And that's the only place left I could see it could be.

Thanks. If it goes right into the plastic air intake elbow, then on my 2001 VQ it must come off the drivers side valve cover. I have about a half inch by 12 inch preformed hose that does an L into the intake elbow. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'm trying to see where the PCV line comes into the bottom of the throttle body from the passenger side valve cover. I don't see anything related to that. I do see the 2 hoses for the coolant that flows through the throttle body. Does anyone know what the size of hose those are, so I can order a pipe nipple to bypass it as I do the rest of this project? Does anyone have some pictures of where the PCV hose comes into the throttle body? All I see is the ventilation hose from the driver's side valve cover to the rubber intake boot. The only thread I found google searching for pics goes to another Nissan forum where all the pics are no longer linked. I'm afraid I'm going to have to start taking things apart to find it, and I'm worried I won't have everything and will get stuck waiting on parts. Thanks

I'd get a medium duty OME set of springs. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

This sounds like an aftermarket alarm because the factory ones didn't have vibration sensors. Did unlocking manually ever shut off the alarm? I'd be surprised if it did. The problem is it can't tell the difference between that and someone opening the door from inside. It has no key hole sensor. I'd try to find the siren unit, get the model number and look up the manual online to see what my options were. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I think it was like these. But that was the last time I tried to use them 10 years ago. And they are only maybe at my parents house 200 miles away. I actually did take the struts to a NTB that agreed to do it under the table for a $50 tip. The shop manager was really condescending when I tried to show him how the FSM said they should go together. When I got home I discovered they didn't seat the bearing flat, and the chevron was pointing in the wrong direction. This was probably a little dicky of me but I was so mad that I would have never known about the sloppy work if I had taken the whole job to them, that I wrote corporate. I had to leave town, but my dad took them to an independent car shop we had a relationship with who hooked me up free of charge. I later found out the NTB shop manager got fired. I don't know if it was only that, or one of a string of things. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

My Autozone spring compressor just bent the jackscrew without compressing my HD springs much at all. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I found warm white HID lamps on Amazon. I really like them. They can power out of my fogged lenses better than halogen. They are almost as bright as high beam on low, but so far the only times I've been flashed were towing a trailer. The high beams aren't good. They just have a halogen hi beam to get by inspection. If I could find some warmer LED headlamps I'd be tempted to try them. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Pic? A fuse for a fuel pump will be like this, about a 1/4 inch by 3/4 by 3/4. A relay will be about as big as your thumb. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I've never seen a relay and fuse integrated in a Nissan or any other OEM vehicle. But they can be in the same larger wiring box. Does the box have labels on top? Have you opened it up? Here in a sec I'll take a pic. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I would have expected the oil to be milky coming out from water emulsification, or at the very least obvious pools of water sitting in the oil that came out. But does that somehow not happen with manual transmission water ingestion? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

In my 2001 it's in a box above the driver's wheel well inside the engine bay, and it's clearly labeled on the cover. I've tapped into it to control my electric radiator fan and trailer power lines. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

That's too bad about the Land Cruiser being hard to work on in general. I have other irritations with how Toyota does things too. I was kinda assuming post 2000 Toyota trucks would be pre-wired. But it was more out of principled frustration I said Toyota over Nissan. I finally got the wires run and the wheel well liner in. It has plastic speed nuts, that mount around both panels. I tried to pull off the liner and couldn't. When I couldn't get the liner on with them installed after 90 minutes, and after a cooling off period, I yanked the hell out of them, got them off, installed them on the body first, and it went much better. Now I just have to wire in the actual control box. But for today we just decided to go without them again, and drive conservatively. The camper is 2,600 lbs so they aren't required. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

So the years long project that will never end and that escalates at every turn does it again. I hope the Nissan marketing people who decided not to prewire for a 7 pin plug and electric brake controllers on a vehicle that can tow 3,500-5,000, and the engineers who designed them making it so difficult and time consuming to install and remove components without breaking them - rot in the hottest part of hell for all eternity. Alternatively I have great sympathy for the factory workers that build them. I can't understand how Nissan's don't cost $200,000 just from labor rates building them. If I was going to install this for someone else, I'd charge several thousand dollars. And if someone did it for a reasonable rate, they would have had to do a horrible hack job. Among other frustrations that had already raised my blood pressure past the explosive point - I've spent 90 minutes trying to reinstall the drivers wheel liner and I can't get it to go in. If I had any idea how hard this would be, I would have bought a used Xterra that had the 7-pin prewiring. Actually I'd rather not buy a Nissan ever again. But they are very affordable used trucks compared to Toyota. Just had to vent. I was getting to the point i needed to go to the hospital for chest pains.

Cool. It seems the 2001 remote is different than the 2002-2004. Mine looks like this. When I've looked at them they've been more expensive and fewer options than the 2002-2004 remotes. But I just found where this design was used on the 2000-2004 Sentras and Maximas too so I may see if there are more options I could try for generic replacements and flip keys. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk