colinnwn

I've never put on a SFD or know what is involved besides reading some threads on this forum. But if you are wanting to do most of the work yourself, want it to be cheap, and have no access to a mechanic familiar with installing SFDs, I think a standard spring lift is easier. I did my own about 10 years ago except for assembling the strut package because the new springs were so strong. It was very easy to do if you are comfortable with basic wrenching. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I can't think of what open connector there is back there. Here is what you need if you don't have the factory version already. It splices in with factory plugs between each tail lamp Hopkins 43565 Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Q7ZU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v0N3Db12P9C17 Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

For compatibility you can look up on NissanPartsDeal website the model number. At the bottom I think it shows other compatibility. If it doesn't, switch your vehicle settings one year at a time until the model number of the ECU changes. You can probably also use the part diagrams there to determine what that solenoid is. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

For compatibility you can look up on NissanPartsDeal website the model number. At the bottom I think it shows other compatibility. If it doesn't, switch your vehicle settings one year at a time until the model number of the ECU changes. You can probably also use the part diagrams there to determine what that solenoid is. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'm gonna assume this is an automatic transmission? If manual, no power valve screws. If automatic, I know of no way to tell externally. Once you've done the work to see them, it's 30 more minutes to just replace the screws and loctite. You'll know the first one you try to remove if they were redone correctly. If he was the type to take it to the dealer, call them with the VIN. They should be able to tell you. If you know the likely shop he might have used, you could try calling them. Otherwise you are pretty much out of luck. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

That strut compressor definitely looks stouter. I have a whole story around getting this done. I had to call 3 shops to get someone even willing to touch it, since they weren't doing the whole job. NTB agreed to do it off the books. The guy was a jerk when I casually pointed out the notches and alignment. When I got them back they hadn't aligned them, and they hadn't ensured the plastic bearing seated correctly. I accidentally got the manager of that location fired, though I absolutely did not mean for that to happen. I just wanted them to train their shop employees better. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Everyone has different tools and different capabilities so you'll get a lot of different answers. My suggestion is if your bay doesn't have a press, have a backup mechanic plan to take the struts to. I installed my AC lift about 12 years ago. I did everything except assembling the struts. I had done it all successfully with an Altima before. I tried using a cheap Autozone McP spring compressor. I used both compressor sides on one strut. The spring barely compressed, the fingers were walking out and the jack screws were bending. Rather than buy a better one with full spring restraints and risking it still might not work, I took the struts to a mechanic to assemble.

There are some easier charts, but if you want to read more, this is pretty good https://www.bluesea.com/support/articles/Circuit_Protection/1437/Part_1%3A_Choosing_the_Correct_Wire_Size_for_a_DC_Circuit Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

You are talking about the 12 volt power wire to the trailer? No matter what gauge you choose, you should fuse or circuit breaker it for the size wire you have. That will also tell you if you undersized it. As far as gauge to use, it all depends on how much power you expect your trailer to require. If your trailer battery is always fully charged, and you don't leave anything on in it besides a few LED lights, then 16ga is fine. At a given gauge size and wire length, the more power you try to pull causes the end voltage to decrease, and of course for the wire to heat up. My 7 pin connector only had a 12 ga pigtail. The spade connector inside and RV pigtail has its limits too. But given the long run, I sill used 10 ga. I plan to try using the DC portion of my absorbtion refrigerator, and it pulls close to 200 watts at 12 volts as I remember. I'm still not sure 10 ga is big enough for me. But I may just stick with propane when traveling. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Blackstone labs has gone up a bit. It's $28 now. Cost isn't an issue if I get time. Is it worth the TBN test for amount of active additives left? That another $10. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'll see about doing that, depending on how long the wife tolerates it sitting in front of the house. For a couple of months I noticed the oil light would flicker quickly a couple of times right after a start, but would fully extinguish within a second of start up. I know it would happen in my driveway on cold starts. I think I saw it also happen out and about on hot starts. I never saw it come on other that that. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

It was clattering at the same time, but not synchronously with the light. It was fluttering intermittently, and irregularly, like when your voltage regulator is dying. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I have a manual transmission. Supposedly the FSM shows the manuals don't have the power valve system, and one person on here disassembled their manual transmission Pathy to verify. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I might try that from morbid curiosity. But I don't think in any way your suggestion killed my engine. You suggested a product designed to go in engine oil, in the amount specified in the instructions. If anything I'd blame Walmart, but I don't. And even then I'd have no way to prove that was the cause, and it had a known prior related problem. Thanks Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I think the Ole girl finally gave out for good unless she gets a new heart. I did a 30 mile round trip on the highway, staying below 65 mph and in the right lane. The clattering got to where it only stopped when accelerating. The temp creeped up to 215. I had to turn the AC off and the heat on full, to keep the temp below 205. It usually runs 185. As I turned in the driveway the low oil pressure light started flickering. I'll find the right forum to post it, but if anyone wants her to fix or part, I'm sure I'll be selling her. We are in Dallas TX. I'm getting a 2006 Acura MDX with 126k miles. A friend has one in great shape he will sell me for cheap. Not exactly what I wanted, but it still looks like a nice SUV. Hopefully I'll eventually have an R51 or R50 Pathfinder again. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

267k miles It's hard to tell with YouTube quality. I don't think it will do it parked revving, but I'll try that tomorrow. Mine I think sounds sharper, almost like ball peen hammer, or maybe predetonation. That one almost sounds like a more flimsy rattle. I'd probably suspect loose exhaust manifold hearing it. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'm getting it at *Cold start up 3 secs *Hot start up 1sec *Low rpm high load like going up a hill from a stop with my trailer *Deceleration events, including all shifts, in a manual with strong engine braking *And as of tonight on the ride home I can occasionally hear it at low rpm moderate cruising speed The deceleration I don't think can be anything loose. It is extremely regular and sharp, in time with the rpm, about 10 beats, and sharply stops. It all sounds exactly like when I was in high school, and had a Scout that was leaking 2 quarts a week, and I accidentally ran it out of oil on the highway. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The 2nd half of the bottle helped some, it's a little less noisy and can barely hear it under light deceleration. But it's still plenty loud and annoying under moderate deceleration for a half second. So this weekend definitely trying the 10w30. If I knew how loud it was going to get, I would have bought the 15w40. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

That's actually exactly what I want, a 2004 manual. But I only found one within 500 miles and it was $7k. Also my wife has convinced me to get an automatic so she can help drive if we take some really long trips with our camper. I'm sad about that, but won't dread the idea of a 900 mile trip anymore. I'll keep this thread updated on the oil experiments. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

In the past couple days I noticed a hint of clattering when lifting off the gas. Last night on the way home it started doing it loudly, for a half second, every time I lifted off the gas. I put in the 2nd half of the stabilizer bottle. Oil was already full, now it is a bit over full. Haven't had a chance to test drive it yet. But given the progression of symptoms, the engine sounds like it is in its swan song. This weekend I may try doing an oil change with the 10w30 I had already purchased. Since Idemitsu/Subaru doesn't sell 10w30 except in very expensive quart bottles for their rotary engines, I was going to try Shell Rotella T5 10w30 for diesels, which I've heard good things about using in gas engines too. Don't think it would be worth putting in a junkyard motor. So we are also looking at replacement Pathfinders. R50's are pretty scarce and lower mileage ones are getting expensive. I suspect we will end up with a R51. Would be open to a Toyota, but those are generally more expensive than I want to pay. I'm going to ask on the R51 board what to watch out for when buying a used one.

For Pathy in US was 2000 Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I was having some trouble with brake shimmy starting quickly, not immediately but within 5k miles, after a brake job. So far I've bought new rotors at every brake job, I've never skipped or machined them. It would probably be good to get even new rotors machined once mounted on the hub. I've always done a half hearted wipe down of the rotors with brake cleaner and figured any remaining would quickly burn off. I read a brake technical article that Sai you should get every bit of oil off new rotors by washing them with soap and water, then brake cleaner, then don't contaminate them getting them on. Oil left on can oxidize and embed into the metal changing the coefficient of friction and the rapid but tiny changes in deceleration as the pads wipe across the rotor can cause shimmy. So that's what I did and I'm at 15k miles I think and just starting to feel some subtle shimmy. But I also towed a 3k trailer a little before I got the electric brakes installed, and I think the new shimmy started after a couple hard stops due to people cutting on on me and slowing down. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I assume you would need to be careful to spray the radiator squarely and a bit back to not fold over any fins? I've been thinking about this problem. If it was me I'd hook an OBD reader up to it and drive around to verify it wasn't an out of calibration gauge. If that shows it is still too hot, I'd probably test the coolant temp sensor. There is a procedure in the service manual I think by dipping it in boiling water and checking the resistance. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

If you are going to live with it, I'd try putting in a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

OEM rad caps are so cheap I'd do that first too. You can get a coolant exhaust gas test kit on Amazon for $35, or Ebay for as little as $15, so I'd do that too. Not sure I trust China eBay kits. It will at least eliminate that possibility to move on to next Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk