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I got the P1145 code 2 nights ago, which is the same code for bank 2 (driver's side) rather than P1140 for bank 1 (passenger's side). So that would indicate a failing camshaft sensor. I I ordered a generic one from Amazon for $15, rather than the $80-100 that the parts stores or Nissan wanted. Parts Geek was comparable price without the convenient shipping. Rock Auto was a bit more around $50. I didn't get the exact part number as called out on NissanPartsDeal, but it did crossreference by other numbers. Nissan is such a pain in how they substitute all over the place and it is never clear the actual right part number, and part interchangeability history and order. Hopefully this fixes it.

? Where did you find it was the knock sensor? I didn't look at my FSM, but googling i found a lot of references to the VVT system. Like this https://forums.nicoclub.com/novice-with-p1140-code-on-2001-pathfinder-t617173.html Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Two weekends ago we went camping and towed our Casita travel trailer with the Pathfinder. On the way, going through some hills during a long full throttle run, my SES light came on. The code was P1140. The Pathy seemed to run fine on the trip home, maybe a tiny bit rough. P1140 is bank 1 intake variable valve timing control performance, and the common causes are faulty bank 1 camshaft sensor faulty crankshaft sensor faulty variable valve timing solenoid wiring issue oil starvation to the valve timing solenoid I use really high quality filters, either Mobil 1 or Purolator Pure One, and full synthetic motor oil, and do 10k oil changes. I'm at about 7k miles on the oil filter, and the oil was full and looks in good condition. I know that is higher than many people do, but I've done the same with 3 cars and gotten over 250k miles on each without issue. To try to figure out which sensor by process of elimination, I swapped the bank 1 and bank 2 camshaft sensors, to see if the error came back on the same or opposite side. So far the code hasn't come back at all. I did wipe off both sensors good, but they looked relatively clean. One person said theirs had a lot of buildup on it and cleaning it eliminated the problem. Has anyone else had this code pop up once, and not come back after not really doing anything?

I thought the cheap regulators weren't particularly reliable and you should try to get an OEM regulator which is a good bit more expensive? I did remove the alternator the last 3 times I've installed a new one. It is a huge bear on the VQs, takes a good 3 hours and lots of laying on your back. It's cold now. I took my junkyard special that I removed last time to the rebuild shop. It's a Malaysian generic 13900. I figured out after I removed it the real problem was the voltage sensing circuit in my ScanGauge. I asked him to check the brushes in it, clean it up if necessary, and check it. I'm hoping it will last until I retire the truck. Wednesday and Thursday will be nice weather. I'll replace it then. I may or may not get the Hitachi alternator tested. It worked fine going over to the shop. I'll be driving the truck until I replace the alternator. So unless the diode ripple is out of spec, it will probably test fine. If the Hitachi ever goes back on the truck it will get a new voltage regulator. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

In the past 2 months, 3 different times I've had my alternator not work for the first few minutes after starting the car and driving off. I could tell because the battery, and brake light was on, I have a ScanGauge that stayed off (it should turn on automatically), and if I turned it on it showed 11.4 volts. So far this has only happened on the first start of the day, with it fairly cold ~35 degrees. But each time after driving for about 2-3 minutes, before I could get back home, the alternator started working again (the lights went off and the voltage was normal at 14.3 volts.) I'm about to go through the service manual, but has anyone had something like this, or have thoughts on what it could be? The alternator is original, but last year it quit working. I took it to a rebuild shop who replaced the brushes, cleaned it up, tested it, and said it was good. He said it is really rare for a voltage regulator to go, which I was surprised about. The alternator plug is a little tight. I've worried that some day the wires may pull out a little. But if that happens, I think I'd see the alternator be totally intermittent or not work at all. Thanks.

Have you checked the fuel filter? Also I'd check the engine codes and the injector trims to see if they are out of whack. If that looks good, it could be an intermittent fault with the fuel pump. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yes. It works once because you disturbed the connection and it has metal to metal contact again. After the first start the high current causes heat and oxidation across the poor connection so it will no longer work. Cables need to be tight. I've seen a loose one become red hot and smoke on an old Scout that required a lot of cranking and very high amperages. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'd try spraying some Kroil or PB Blaster on them, then repeatedly tap the bolt for a couple minutes,then try. If that doesn't work, with a hose handy you could try putting a propane torch to them for about 15 seconds and then quenching them. Can repeat a couple of times. You could also try an impact driver. If you have an air compressor, you can get the driver cheap at Harbor Freight. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

LBJ-Lower ball joint Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The voltage regulator is in the alternator. I found that overcharging can also be caused by old oily brushes in the alternator and the voltage regulator can be fine. If you are really handy you can replace the voltage regulator yourself. But if you need to keep your truck in service, I would pull an alternator at a junkyard, get it tested, and then put it in. You can take your old alternator to a rebuild shop to be properly cleaned and diagnosed. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Mine does it, but it snuck up over time and didn't really realize it was a defect. I guess I figured it was just an old display. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

My first Optima lasted 10 years. I got a Bosch AGM that lasted 11 months. I replaced it with an Optima and at about 2 years old, while it is still starting my truck, the resting voltage is sitting at 12.2 volts. That may indicate a shorting cell inside. There is another really expensive brand that is used in aircraft a lot, that I can't think of the name of right now. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

My 2001 SE has the heated mirrors, but not a light on the mirror. Have you checked to see if yours came factory and just need to diagnose why they aren't working? The wiring in the truck may or may not be there. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I use a Scan Gauge for voltage and other gauges you don't generally see in cars. I don't think our VQs have an oil pressure sender that can indicate pressure tied to the ECU. It does have a low hi sensor for the idiot light. I'll have to double check that. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The bolts have a narrower shaft with an eccentric inner lobe of the same diameter as the strut hole, that allows the offset to adjust based on the clock position of the bolt head. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Not my 2001 SE Pathfinder Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yeah they will get warm. I turn them on in rain to dry the water droplets. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

My 2001 SE has the heated mirrors, but when I hold the unlock button down my side windows don't go down. I'm going to have to look up the years and trim level of that. My mom's old 95 Maxima did it, and I was always surprised my Pathfinder didn't. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

When the coil field collapses most of that arching high voltage energy goes to the spark plugs, but some of it rings back onto the DC input side of the coil. The condenser, which is generally a capacitor, but perhaps Nissan used a combination of a capacitor and a resistor, dampens that ring back. If it isn't dampened, it can do bad things to other electronic devices, especially hall effect RPM sensors if that is what the VG uses. I'm sure it is in a substantially bigger case than necessary. But you can't base a resistor size on its ohm resistance. It will have a power dissipation factor too. At 2200ohms, a tiny resistor for a tiny load might be 1/8 watt, or one as big as your fist in an industrial application might be for a 100 watt load. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yeah that's what the ignition condenser looks like on a Nissan. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I forgot about that. Also check recall status on gas filler tube rust, or that it has lived its life in non-salting states. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yeah I thought the $15 door switch was fine. The $180 latch replacement irked me for a cheap and what reasonably should be serviceable part. I do think I found the latch for $100 direct from Japan. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

If you can, park it warm facing nose down for 10 minutes and see if you have visible oil leaks on the pavement. Look for dampness and smell underneath the front floor mats to see if the sunroof or front windshield seal is leaking. I still haven't figured out where it's coming from but I've been fighting it for years. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The 3.5 does have a timing chain. Ask about oil consumption. Ask if auto tranny, whether the swirl control valves have been tightened and locktited. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I doubt there is any chance. The light flickers in time with me jiggling the latch plate inside of the locking mechanism. But when I get the plastic interior panel off and the locking mechanism is visible, I will look around. I had the exact problem with the driver rear door, and a new door switch fixed it. Now I just have to figure out how to get the plastic panel off without damaging it. I don't see any screws or pop points. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk