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My cable adjustment was already at the limit. I thought about the zip tie method, but I figured the little bushing was there to soften the throttle tip in, and the sheath was deteriorating anyway, so I decided to replace it. The throttle end isn't removable. So you have to get a whole assembly with inside mounting plate. It is removed and installed from inside. I didn't want to mess around with a junkyard assembly that could already be deteriorating. It was $90 delivered from Nissanpartsdeal.com. Courtesy parts website had the wrong part number. The actual install was very easy, aside from the awkwardness and limited space under the dash. It took 1 hour. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

There is no way I believe someone did a starter replacement on a 3.5 4x4 in 45 minutes. I bought a starter, got under the truck, and chickened out because it looked impossible without removing the right front half shaft, this is my daily driver, and I didn't have time to risk it. My shop charged 2 hours and said they didn't have to remove the half shaft. They used multiple u joints and extensions on their socket wrench, and with patience was able to Tetris the starter out and in. I don't think my arms are long or thin enough to do that, especially without a lift. There is a young guy who started a thread on here about a year ago, rightly very proud of himself for accomplishing it as his first big car repair. I think it took him about 4 hours. But I don't recall him posting many details. He pointed out the dearth of information online too. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

My accelerator pedal has lots of play now after some small black hard rubber bushing broke between the end of the throttle cable and the accelerator pedal arm. I can only get to about 3/4 throttle. Has anyone had this happen? It looks like the throttle cable end ferrule is crimped on. I don't see how it can be replaced. It almost looks like you have to replace the whole assembly. I hope not! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

My 2001 remote looks like this. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B074HBNCNN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_OFF0Ab60WD2KD I wonder if the remote you posted would work instead, since it's half the price for twice the remotes. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I have a 5 speed. If you want to have it completely separate from fog lights, you could drill a hole directly above or below the hood release cable and bring it through the wheel well into the engine bay. That's what I'm going to do for my electric trailer brakes. You might be able to push 1 small wire through the existing hood cable grommet. Then you can use that for a switched ground to energize a relay mounted in the engine bay. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

If you have an automatic, use the firewall hole for the clutch pedal pushrod. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

My 2001 has had an ongoing problem with this for the past 3 years. When it rains heavily I can see the drips appear in the door frame area just below where the dash starts. And under the floor mat it gets soaked and mildew smelling. I tried replacing the inner door seal (not cheap), using 14 ga wire to fish out the sunroof drains, vacuuming the drains and the fender where leaves collect. The only things I have thought of I haven't done are replacing the sunroof seal, and verifying the sunroof drains are still attached. I did have a problem with the tiny front window seal rubber at the outside base between the plastic hood finisher has deteriorated and was curling up. I glued it down with silicone and the leak seems less, but I'm not convinced it is the real problem. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The very next core column over, so probably 1/4 of an inch. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yeah it's a 3.5. I'm not about to pull the engine on my own. I'd suspect it'd be pretty expensive to do at a shop. But at some point I'll probably take it in to get quoted. If that's the case, this won't be getting fixed. It's mildly annoying to smell the hot oil, but not $1k annoying. Once it comes time for a new clutch, based on the cost to replace it, I'll decide whether to fix it all or retire the truck.

After 3 years of reliable operation, my electric radiator fan (that has the external probe you push into the core) didn't come on with the coolant temp passing 212 degrees. I originally set it to come on as close to 190 as possible. The actual turn on temp varied between 185 and 195. The first thing I tried was pushing it into a new location in the radiator. Over the years it had gouged out the original location where it wasn't getting good contact. That got it coming back on at 200 degrees. To get it coming on at 190 degrees, I had to set the adjustable temp control to its lowest setting. So the controller is slowly dying (at least in sensitivity). I'd like to get a new controller with a proper coolant temp sensor in the radiator water. Has anyone found a location to put another one of these into the engine? If not, I've considered getting one of those metal adapters that you splice into your radiator hose, that has the bung for a temp sensor. The ones I've seen are bulky. Has anyone found a good option to do this? Thanks.

I've had the normal amount of oil loss for Pathfinders (about 1 qt per month), no drips on the ground I see. After driving a while when the engine is hot, I occasionally have a hot oil smell while stopped at lights, but no smoke. I've had it to 2 mechanics. The first mechanic replaced the valve gaskets. That slowed the loss for a while. The 2nd mechanic re-tightened the valve covers, and said I have leaks at the oil pan, and at the rear main seal. I haven't addressed those yet. I'm debating which to do. Under the engine I see oil on the alternator, and also down and further back. But I can't tell where it is coming from. I have the manual transmission engine, so it isn't coming from the oil cooler. It doesn't really look like from the oil pan gasket though. The leak looked higher up on the engine block. I wouldn't be surprised on the main seal, but I couldn't find where it would come out. And I don't expect to do it until I need a new clutch. Has anyone redone the oil pan gasket? I was thinking of replacing it just to see. It doesn't look easy to do. I also noticed the cover between the power steering pump and the pulley for the radiator fan (I have an electric fan), looks damp. I wasn't sure what this covers, and if it could be part of the oil loss problem, because it is straight down to the alternator.

What did you use to separate the ball joint on the steering arm? I've been needing to change my steering rack boots. Harbor Freight has several options. I haven't figured out which one would work best.

I have a 2 inch spring lift. I didn't adjust my LSV. I've been happy with my braking both empty and towing. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Sounds like at a minimum you need new rear shocks. They are really easy to replace if you don't change springs. Of course you need a warm spot to do it. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Many years ago when I redid my shocks and added lift springs, it went from driving fine, to feeling like all the shocks and struts were toast within a week. It happened during the first cold snap of the year, but for me that's getting in the 20s. Have you tried jumping around on your rear bumper to see if it keeps rocking or stops? You can do something similar with the front by bouncing gently off a small curb. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I know people install remote starters on manual transmission cars, but I didn't think there were any systems certified for it. You'd have to leave your vehicle out of gear and bypass the clutch start switch. Without that the vehicle wouldn't be able to start, or the vehicle would drive off. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I got my console covered using the skin I had bought already. Looking at other options on Amazon, it seems they are all about the same. And possibly it is synthetic leather. It smells like leather, and the back has that suede look of real leather instead of fabric mesh of old style leather looking vinyl. But it looks synthetic leather has advanced to the point it is hard to tell the difference. It still has a bulge on the front left corner because of a poor cut/stitch job, but it isn't too bad. And the long direction was too short leaving very little for the back seam to catch and hold against the tape. The secret is getting some 1/4" wide leather basting tape. The leather does stick well to that. Combined with me not pulling it as tight, and giving up on smoothing out that bulge, it looks pretty good now installed. The plastic top insert flexed enough that it squeezed in and I was able to screw it together without feeling like I was going to crack it. Overall I'd do it again, with another brand of cover from Amazon (I saw about 5 different brands), and now that I know about basting tape.

Whether ryjaytay has a 3.3 or a 3.5 makes a big difference. If it's a model year 2001 I think it has to be a 3.5. Out of curiosity what is the advantage of popping the belt off with a screwdriver and the starter? I would think you'd need to release the tensioner to get the new belt on anyway. And I'd be afraid the screwdriver could flick into something and tear that part up. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

There is no easy way to replace the alternator except take it to a shop. I'd plan 5 hours for myself, and that's after doing it 3 times in the last 6 months. I don't know what the shop hourly rate book says. I can't imagine how it could come out from the top. Here is my thread about it. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?/topic/43419-Removing-the-alternator-on-a-3.5-(5-speed) Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

Same thing happened to me. On the 2001, there are 2 switches on the brake pedal, one for the brake lights and one to cancel the cruise, and one on the clutch pedal also to cancel the cruise. There are 3 rubber bushings with 2 different part numbers. They are about $ 6 each, and they are a B to install unless you have the hands and arms of a 10 year old. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

I bought one of the console covers off Amazon, and tried to replace it, but it has been a disaster. I bought one the description said was synthetic, because I read real leather was thicker and harder to get it to look nice, though I'd prefer real leather. When it arrived the description was wrong, it was real leather. It is about 1/4 inch too short in the long direction to fold over the edges good. The cut also isn't great. It bulges on the front sides unless pulled very tight. I got scotch double sided tape to see if I could get it on OK, and the plastic frame back in. The leather back doesn't stick to the scotch tape, it pops back up in seconds. The thick seams don't stay down at all. The factory double sided tape was fiberous rather than plastic, and seemed slightly gummy. I'm going to see if I can find something more similar to that. And I'll probably have to get the vinyl cover instead of leather to get it to look half decent. If this doesn't work out, I'm going to try to find a car upholstery place to fix it.

When I was under my truck today, I discovered my driver side steering rack boot is torn. Has anyone replaced the boots and have pointers on tools, tips, or best parts? What type of pitman arm puller works best? There seems to be a ton of different styles. Has anyone done the shortcut of the lubed bag over the tie rod end, and slide the boot over the end? It looks pretty hard to do, and you need to be sure the new boot is neoprene otherwise it won't be flexible enough. Other people say it's unnecessary, just remove the end and count the turns, and if you put it back on the same number of turns you shouldn't need to get it re-aligned. Thanks.

Well stupid me. I replaced my alternator again without verifying the voltage readings using a 2nd method. I didn't imagine the ScanGauge could be reporting the wrong data. The ScanGauge is still showing rapidly fluctuating voltage. I put a voltage meter on the truck and it is rock steady at 14.4 volts. I think the ScanGauge is screwed up. But to be sure the truck isn't reporting the crazy voltage, I'm going to get another cheap OBD2 reader. I'll start another thread. But if anyone is reading this and has a cheap and nice OBD reader, they like, let me know. Thanks.

Oh yeah I forgot. Well I did use the strut compressor to squeeze the rear springs enough to work them in without having to detatch the brake lines. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

Also just FYI, I installed them myself, but the one piece I couldn't do, and I don't think most backyard mechanics could do unless they have a shop screw press, is assemble the strut package. I bent my McPherson strut compressor trying to compress those dam springs to assemble the strut. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk