colinnwn

I have a manual. On my trailer brake, I think there is 4 wires, 3 of which are fairly large gauge. I considered routing through the hood release cable, but it is really small and has a molded grommet that I didn't want to tear up, and then have chafing concerns. The only other visible option I remember is around the clutch cable or brake rod bushings. Also didn't want to make a mess of that. Other cable entrances and exits I haven't been able to see from behind the dash. If there is a particularly good one I should search for again, happy to try. Thanks Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

Thanks. I'll try to clean out first and if it doesn't work, I may have some more questions. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

I'm getting ready to do some work on my truck this weekend. I'm going to install electric trailer brakes. For the wiring, I decided to drill through the firewall near where the hood release cable goes, which is right behind the drivers wheel well liner. Has anyone removed this before? It seems to be in there more tightly than just being held by the plastic rivets inside the wheel well, and I think a screw or two in the wheel flare. But is that all it takes and the liner will pop right out? Thanks Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

My washer jets only come about 2 inches up the window now. I cleaned out the nozzles with a needle and no change. I figure I need to replace the washer pump. I assume like most it is attached to the tank. But you can't even see the tank in this truck. Has anyone replaced their pump and know how hard it was, and the basic steps? Thanks Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

Congratulations. I've replaced more starters in IH Scouts than I can count. I can do it in 30 minutes. But after buying a starter for my Pathfinder, getting under there and seeing how tight everything was, I didn't even dare try. I just push started it and took it to a mechanic. I still don't think I could do it before I took a sledgehammer to the truck and destroyed everything. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

Definitely. Mine used very little, maybe a half quart per 5000 miles until about 2 years ago. I recently got a leaky valve cover redone. Something is still leaking, but I can't tell what. Next week I plan to take it to another mechanic to see if they can figure out. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

I was researching this further to figure out what o-rings I needed to buy, and how hard it realistically would be. I couldn't even find the oil cooler under my truck this afternoon while changing the oil. My undercarriage on the passenger side of the engine is fairly soaked with oil. This is the link that Blindaviator originally linked to. http://www.nissanforums.com/pathfinder/142468-2001-pathfinder-odd-oil-leak-pics.html On post #10 I found this screen shot from the service manual. It seems to indicate that manual transmission Pathfinders didn't have the oil cooler?

I mostly fixed mine by just spraying and wiping down the belt. It was getting stiff. I used PB Blaster brand wet silicone lubricant. http://blastercorp.com/Silicone-Lube I tested the dry stuff, and it leaves a messy white residue when dry. The PB Blaster did leave a heavy petroleum smell that made me nauseous while driving for about a week.

I was looking for another post and came across this. Just for future reference I found a place in South Dallas that did my hood for $250 last year. They did an excellent job. The only mess-up was getting the gasket crooked on the windshield washer nozzle. He offered to do my whole truck for $1,200. Unfortunately 3 months later on the freeway a huge nut flew onto my hood. It put a large dent and 2 big paint chips in it, and then hit my window. Miraculously the window didn't crack.

I need one too. My order on NissanPartsDeal just got canceled for being on indefinite backorder. I was going to buy the one on PartsGeek but I just realized it isn't genuine Nissan. It is a brand called OES Genuine. Since it is no cheaper than genuine Nissan, I'm thinking of ordering from another dealership.

Thanks for the very detailed description. I'll look for it on my manual PF. How hard are those seals to replace as a DIYer? The burning oil smell has dramatically reduced since my valve cover gasket replacement. But after 2 engine washes, I still smell a hint of burning oil. Hoping I can track that down. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I have a little trouble with missing oil. I've been running synthetic oil for 100k miles. Is engine sludge as likely to develop when running synthetic this long, and I should try seafoam in the oil still? Just wondering since I thought prevention of sludge buildup was one of its advantages. I've already had the valve cover gaskets replaced and that fixed about half of the missing oil. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Thanks, I'll be ordering one Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Hi, Somehow I missed that Jackson Autosport manufactured, and then quit manufacturing, a control arm brace. I've seen a couple posts where people manufactured their own, but it was pretty short on details. I was going to get a local metal shop to make me one. Does anyone know what type of metal I should request, and what the square tube wall thickness should be? I saw where one guy crimped the ends on 1" round steel electrical conduit. That seems like it is way too thin and flexible to survive long term. But is that really all you need, and it would be safe? I'm ignoring the possible concern about engine movement in a wreck for now while talking about safe. I just don't want it to break and pole vault my front end one day. Thanks. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I think I just found a vacuum diagram with it. It looks like it should go to the power valve actuator. I'm pretty sure those are only on automatic transmission Pathfinders. So my manual it would probably be capped. http://imgur.com/IpQSrWh

Hi, I have a vacuum hose barb, without a hose attached (circled in red in the picture). I can't find any other open barb it could attach to. Does anyone know where this goes? Or is it capped off from the factory? http://imgur.com/i8jwu9d Thanks

Work continues on my truck to get it reliable again, but it actually ran an entire week without throwing the error code or running rough. I made some interesting findings, and ran into more issues. I decided not to replace the fuel filter a 2nd time, and launch straight into replacing the spark plugs and coils. I actually found my 2009 post on this forum, from the last time I did the spark plug replacement that I forgot I posted. I actually said it wasn't that bad except for #4. And it hasn't been bad, if not for old brittle rubber. It hasn't been anything like what I thought I remembered from 7 years ago. Bank 1/3/5 requires taking off a couple brackets and can be done quick, with some knuckle scraping. Bank 2/4/6 requires taking the airbox/MAF/snorkle out. 4 in particular also requires removing the throttle body. A guy on YouTube thought it was easier to leave the airbox in. I think he's crazy. The bottom 2 connecting bolts of the MAF to the airbox would be a bear to remove and install. When I got in there, I discovered that the mechanic who replaced my valve cover gaskets used silver liquid gasket and made a mess. There was liquid gasket down in the spark plug holes, and on the spark plug boots. I don't think enough to cause misfire, and it ran fine for a while after the replacement. But I was disappointed. I hope he also used a legit gasket, and there isn't so much extra in the engine that it is plugging up oil passageways. Incidentally the valve gasket replacement made a big difference in the smell of hot oil, and also my oil consumption. I still have a little of both, that I need to explore further or take to someone with a lift to see if there are any remaining leaks. Hopefully the liquid gasket holds. I paid too much money for it to fail in a couple years like it frequently does. When I got the plugs out, I found they were NKG Iridium LFR5AIX-11. These are apparently 60k sparkplugs, and they lasted 80k. They were well worn, and all wore to one side of the electrode. I don't remember using cheap plugs at all. I always go for the factory recommended plugs. Something must have happened. Anyway I decided to go ahead and replace all 6 coils, that I'm sure I don't need at this time. But they aren't the revised coils with the dot on them, so I figure it is a miracle they lasted this long and could give out any day. I'm also replacing the ignition condenser. I saw on Youtube that they don't last forever and can cause misfires. While removing the airbox I discovered the snorkle is cracked at the throttle body entrance. I'm going to replace that. I was also replacing some very cracked 5/32" vacuum lines. I found one pipe without a vacuum hose on it. I'm still not sure where that is supposed to go, or if it supposed to be capped. The mechanic broke the nipple off the vacuum tank and epoxied it back on with the crap vacuum line. So of course when I tried to replace the line, the nipple broke again and is fairly unrepairable. I'm ordering a new vacuum tank. I discovered the mechanic cracked the 5/8" vacuum hose that goes from the valve cover to the snorkle, and repaired it with electric tape. I can't find any vacuum hose that big online. So I assume it has to be harder and preformed. I'll be ordering that. It also looks like he replaced a hose of similar size coming from underneath the intake manifold going to the valve cover on the front of the engine with generic coolant hose. It has no hose clamp on it, so I bet it is a vacuum line too and it looks slightly crushed. I think that's everything. One other interesting discovery was half of the can of Seafoam intake spray poured out of my resonator when I removed the airbox. I know I had that straw as far back against the plate as I could. Hopefully it didn't get on the MAF sensor or hurt it. Not gonna use that stuff again.

Does anyone know what happened to Courtesy's part site? I had been using them for at least 15 years. They were one of the first Nissan part sites that had incredible functionality to be able to do part searches, look at factory schematics, and link to the parts in the schematics to buy, and almost everything showed available (for differing lead times). Their reasonable prices coupled with the awesome website was the reason I used them exclusively for parts. I knew they did a website "enhancement" several years ago. I had been fortunate not to need parts for a while, and the one time I did I knew the part number and searched directly for it. But I recently needed to find the part numbers for a couple items I didn't have and it was completely impossible to do on their site. The vehicle specific part schematics are gone, replaced with generic unhelpful part diagrams. The lists of parts tied to a diagram are incomplete compared to other sites and the system in the service manual, many of the parts show completely unavailable, and the ones that do I don't think show in stock at Courtesy or special order with lead times anymore. The NissanUSA website is somewhat like what Courtesy used to have, but it is slower and clunkier https://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanparts/?siteid=14&action=replacement Nissan Parts Deal is very close to what Courtesy had, without the info about lead time https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/2001-nissan-pathfinder-parts.html It is just sad and interesting that Courtesy was so innovative, and then for some reason walked away from it. Other company websites are getting better every year. Their old site maybe wasn't super pretty, but it would still be as good or better functionally than any site out there today. I actually live in South Dallas, but I can't say I see any advantage to using them for parts anymore. Online I'd give my business to a site that has the model specific schematics. And if I need something right now, I'll use a dealer in South Dallas or Arlington.

Hi, Does anyone know anything about the ignition condenser or capacitor on the 2001 Pathfinders? I found out about checking and proactively replacing it on YouTube. I haven't found it in the service manual, or specifically for my vehicle ( 2001 SE 5-speed ) on any of several websites ( Courtesy, NissanPartsDeal, NissanUSA.com ). I did find it on my truck, exactly where the guy on YouTube said it would be. It has no part number on it. It only says Nissan 0.47 microfarad. I did finally find this condenser https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-condenser-ignit~28351-89901.html Interestingly NissanPartsDeal says it is only applicable to the 2000-2002 LE model, among several other models. And on Courtesy's site it has no applicability listed http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/2835189901 The only other condenser I found was this https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-condensor-ignition-coil~28351-89902.html It shows applicability for the newer Pathfinders, among many other models. And on Courtesy's site, it is only listed for the 15/16 Murano and delivery vans. So there is significant discrepancies in the applicability across sites. http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/2835189902 I think I'm going to order the -89901 and hope it is right. But I can't believe both Nissan, and 3rd party sites have this stuff so wrong. Thanks.

#2 yes. It is probably out of balance (mine was). And will eventually let go and tear up your radiator. I replaced with an electric fan. If I was going to replace that, I would have used Courtesy Nissan in Dallas, or PartsGeek or RockAuto for aftermarket. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

That expanding foam stuff eventually turns into a sponge and causes more rust where it is sprayed, and by diverting water to other areas as you surmised. Sorry I don't have alternatives. But I'd live with the rust instead of spray foam. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I haven't had time to replace the fuel filter again yet. But some days it is running fine and some days it runs poorly. I did finally get another code, P0303, cylinder 3 misfire. After I replace the fuel filter again, if the misfire comes back I'm thinking of replacing all the spark plugs and the #3 coil. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

That's a good idea. That area on the Pathfinder has very little extra hose slack before it goes above the tank though. You'd have to be careful in how you plan your cuts. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I don't see how you can do that on a fuel filter without tearing the hose, since the case of the fuel filter is so much larger than the hose barb. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Well the P1320 code came back twice in the past 2 weeks, with no other codes, and I cleared it each time. The last time the truck seemed to be running a little rough. I'm unsure whether to replace the fuel filter again, in case there was still some sludge in the tank. Or if I should try replacing the spark plugs next. My current plugs have about 60k on them. They were the recommend plus straight from a Nissan dealer. So theoretically they should have another 40k of life. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk