colinnwn

I'd replace your radiator cap first. That is what controls what goes into your overflow tank. Also have you verified your radiator is full when cool? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

I bought my 2001 in like 2005 with 135,000 miles. It now has 240,000 miles. It's a manual tranny so it doesn't have the power screws to ingest. Power is still great and it's a really smooth engine for a truck. It uses about 1 qt of oil in 2000 miles. Not sure if eating or dripping it. I don't park on concrete to know. But every once in a while I smell hot oil when sitting at lights or when I get out. The valve covers may have gotten loose and be weeping like they did on my 1990 Maxima. Only difference is tightening them back down was super easy on that engine and not so much on this engine.

Has anyone replaced the weather stripping around the sunroof? If so how hard was it and do you have any pointers? Mine has a small tear from a stick getting caught in it, and the floorboard gets wet when parked downhill in rain. I've been struggling with figuring out if my front sunroof drains are clogged or disconnected or something else. Thanks Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

I actually changed the speed resistor first, because it look burnt and I was hoping that was the problem. Unfortunately it wasn't, but I do feel better that it is fresh with a new motor. Where were you able to get them for $10? Mine was $29 from Courtesy Nissan, and the Nissan list price is $39. Also how did you clean the evap core? Did you take the whole box out and apart? I tried to clean it a little once through the cabin filter opening, and it was near impossible to get anything but a few leaves out.

My driver's seatbelt is getting to where it barely retracts, and I have to push it back up if I want it to go in. Has anyone else had this happen? Do you just have to replace the seatbelt and reel module? How hard was that to do, as far as getting trim off without breaking things? Thanks.

This is correct, about 3000 RPM at 70 mph. They were designed to be able to tow. The only thing that could reasonably affect this, aside from changing the gearing, or different sized tires (a little bit), would be a slipping clutch. And if that was happening you'd know it right away any time you tried to accelerate briskly, your RPMs would jump way up.

Just got finished. It was the motor. Is the old motor and cage fan worth keeping? Does anyone rebuild them?

Not a bad idea, but given how I saw it fail, I doubt that would be conclusive. It was running on 4. There was a burning electrical smell, and the fan slowly spooled down from high to low, and stayed low the rest of the drive. The next day when I tried it, it wouldn't come on at all. I have pigtails made up and am waiting on my wife to help me hold the old motor while I test it on the battery. If it does run, I'll do your test next. If that is the case, I suspect it is some kind of short in the fan switch that caused the harness at the switch to melt. I've found a couple instances of that with Pathfinders after subsequent internet searching.

I got a little more aggressive and managed to get it off without breaking it. Now I was trying to figure out if the fan is really the problem before installing it. I couldn't return it if I was wrong, but I could sell it on eBay. Unfortunately the old fan doesn't have significantly different resistance than the new one. I may have to come up with some jumper wires and try it direct to my battery.

Hi, I'm trying to replace my AC blower motor. That 3rd screw for the blower motor is to where you can't get it out without removing the passenger kick panel, or probably even completely remove the fan cage. I've removed the plastic nut and the 1 screw for the kick panel. Something else is holding it on, either a clip or just a hooked molding. But I can't feel or see where. Does anyone know how to remove it? I've google searched and everyone just glosses over this. I didn't find a thread on here that covered it. I'm about to just pull it until it tears off. Thanks.

I just saw this question. The final price was $550. I believe the starter was $300 of that. I can look it up if it matters. The mechanic was cagey and would only say he didn't need to pull the half-shaft. What I said was just based off of my inspection from underneath. My truck has a 2 inch lift and no other underbody changes. I didn't have a garage lift. I wasn't convinced I could wiggle the starter out, and there was absolutely no way I could get my arm in there far enough to remove the positive terminal.

How did you paint the wheels? With tires on rim and masked them off? If so have you dismounted the tires yet to be sure they aren't glued to the rims?

Actually except for the hood and roof, my paint job doesn't look that bad, especially for a 14 year old car. I'm sure fresh paint on the hood will look sort of out of place, though probably better than the clearcoat peeling that looks like a bad sunburn. But there is almost no way I'll want to spend the money to paint the whole car. The 2 tone tan on the fender flares is starting to fade a little too. I live in Dallas and I don't have a garage to park in at home or work, so warm and sunny is a colossal understatement. I regularly see over 120 degrees on my car thermometer in July and August, so I am sure the hood and roof get to 160 degrees or more. I also don't have a choice but to park under trees at home, which the sap is obviously not good for paint either. I keep my cars for a long time, and my last 2 Nissans the paint held up better without maintenance. I ran it through a carwash a couple times a year. I'd never gotten it waxed until I started getting it detailed once a year the last 2 years. I didn't realize that it would make that much of a difference, besides for tree sap. I assumed that the weather in Texas was a far bigger determinate of paint longevity. But for my future cars I do plan to get them detailed including waxed twice a year hoping it will help. I have no patience to wash and wax cars myself.

The clearcoat on my forest green Pathy is mostly peeled off of my hood, and is starting to fail on my roof, but not bad yet. Does anyone know what my options and approx price is to get a decent job done on hood and maybe roof? I don't want Maaco $100 job, or to spend too much on an old truck with an old paint job. I assume you can't just clearcoat over the current paint and expect it to look ok. Maybe that would be OK on the roof just for protection. This is in Texas if prices vary by region much. Thanks

My truck has the manual HVAC controls with the 3 dials, and the temp selector knob quit working. It would only blow cold air. I discovered it was because the plastic shoulder that holds the cable to the control assembly broke. Theoretically I could have epoxied it back in there, but I discovered the other shoulder for the vent selector cable was close to breaking, and the back frame of the assembly had another crack in it. So I decided I should just replace it. Unfortunately you can't just replace the frame. It only comes as a whole assembly including the fan control, knobs, other switches, and cables - part number 27130. But for Nissan, this part was very reasonable $144 from Courtesy. In comparison, to just replace your clock is an astronomical $160. Upon receiving and reinstalling the part, I discovered the cables are not designed to be removable from the control assembly. You have to remove the cables you have from the HVAC system, which is no easy task. I'm not sure one could do the vent selector cable if you were much bigger than me at 5 foot 6 and 180 lbs. Each cable has a one sided clip near the air door connection that holds the cable cover in place, and a circle on the end of the cable to attach to the air door lever. The temp door attachment is in the passenger foot well in the corner between the console and glove box. The plastic knob is forked and you just squeeze it together and the control cable slips off. That one sided steel clip has teeth, and you have to carefully pull it back a good way to disengage from the plastic cable cover. But it would also be easy to bend it so far it doesn't work anymore or breaks entirely out of the plastic HVAC plenum box, then you'd have a big job on your hands. On the vent selector air door you have to move the cable fully in, which I believe was full defrost, to even be able to see the cable connection. Then you need to get down in the driver foot well and cram your head as far back between the area of the console and the gas pedal as you can, and look straight up with a flashlight. You'll be able to see a metal lever with the control cable on a metal knob, and it has a circular friction washer on the knob to hold the cable on. Getting that washer on and off in the space constrained area without losing it is the hardest part. I bent it pretty bad getting it off, but fortunately I was able to bend it back so I didn't have to wait on getting a new one. I didn't know to order it, and this one cent part didn't come with the control assembly that requires its removal, but comes with everything else under the sun that you probably don't need. To reinstall the control assembly, turn the vent control to defrost, and temp control to full cold (I'm pretty sure it was). Then fish the cables back into the general area they go, and connect the wiring. Lay the assembly down in front of the dash and reinstall the vent control cable first. After you have it connected, snap its cable in the one sided clip to secure it (this one is plastic and easier to do), and mount the assembly in the dash. Now install the temp control cable to the lever. Be sure to push the lever as far away from you as you can, and the dial to full cold. After popping the cable on the lever, again secure the cable in the one sided clip. If you start from hot/lever close to you, the dial will stop turning before it gets to full cold. I couldn't figure out why that was. I was ready to cuss the crap out of the Nissan HVAC engineer for the way they designed this, because some very simple and cheap changes would have made servicing infinitely easier, and could have prevented this failure too. Honestly in the end, it didn't go as bad as I was afraid when I first started the reinstall. But if you are a 220 lb big-shoulder big-hand guy, don't expect to even be able to do this.

Funny you mention the HVAC controls. They are all cable activated air doors and an electrically operated recirc door. I just got finished replacing the HVAC control assembly. Going to do a short writeup on that one. I did mess with the cables manually at the same time as the sucking sound, and no change. So far it is too intermittent to be able to test with a smoke machine, unless I want to be late to work and pull over on a cold morning to do it. Hopefully when it gets more consistient, the power brakes continue working well for a while, to give me time to diagnose further. It could end up being a rush job to just replace the booster and hope it fixes the problem, now I'm convinced the most likely cheap solution isn't the issue this time.

I checked the check valve which was fine. I read on another forum where the grommet around the brake pedal push rod can come out and cause this. It is so tight for space under the dash I'm not looking forward to this. And so far the Pathy has only done this 2 mornings. But I guess ill have to investigate more.

I'd stay away from the CVTs still unless you trade away before warranty goes out. Nissan reduced the part cost by a token amount, but I still see too many people complain about problems. My wife loves her new CRV. My Mom has a 4 year old CX9 she also really likes. I'd buy any of the CX5 or CX7. We looked at the Rogue and Murano as well. At the time the Murano was over $10,000 more than a comparable CX9, and the interior was nice but felt like a grandpa car. If they had gone smaller the Rogue was still in the mix, but a little more than the CX7.

Bought mine at 135k, have 220k. Same clutch as far as I know, seems to still be in good condition. I rarely tow, and haven't wheeled in it, but I drive it pretty hard in the city.

If you have the dial climate controls you need a new fan switch. If you have the push button climate controls, I think you need a fan amp, and be sure your cabin air filter is clean. http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=5754&sid=da0c3b5561d5392b069a151a769d00ca

When I had my belt off I could spin the idler pulley easily. I would expect the squealing to last longer or not stop if the idler was gummed up. Is that not the case?

I read on another forum where replacing the check valve fixed it. It is so cheap and easy to replace that I will try that first. The Nissan one is now $20, and auto part stores only carry a generic for most applications for $5. Haven't decided which to try. The Nissan brake booster is an astronomical $650. I have no idea what justifies that price. If I have to do it, I'll go with an O'Reilly rebuild for $220

The Pathfinder is having a tough week, fortunately the problems have been relatively easy fixes, if not exactly cheap. Now when I am in the truck idling with the brake not on, I hear a sucking sound from under the dash. If I press on the brake it goes away immediately. If I start accelerating it goes away slowly. Pretty classic sounding vacuum leak. So far braking is still good and engine isn't running rough. What is strange is outside the truck I can't hear it. I assume it is a bad brake booster. Wondered if anyone else had experienced this to confirm? Or if anyone has replaced the brake booster and has advice?

I was afraid of blowing water and mud all over my interior with a hose. I pulled out 5 large handfuls of compost and leaves from each side of mine. Thanks for the tip on the underside drain hole. I have some nylon electrical fish tape I might try on the sunroof drains if it will fit. As I recall the top side entry is very small. I've gently blown them out with compressed air before. I assumed it was vinyl hose connected to a barb in the sunroof frame. You haven't had any trouble with the bailing wire poking a hole in the hose?

For years I've been noticing that leaves are building up in that crack in the door jam behind the front wheel well rocker panel. Other than flicking it around with a stick I hadn't figured out a way to get them out. Last weekend I discovered it had gotten a lot worse. It was full, and leaves had even disintegrated into soil. I'd been getting dampness in my driver floorboard and a drip half way up the door frame from the sunroof. I'm hoping this was caused by blocked drains in that rocker panel. Haven't had heavy rain to see if this fixed it yet. But my FIL figured out the perfect tool to clean out the rocker panels. We took a 3/4 inch plastic electrical conduit 90 degree elbow, and taped it onto a strong shop vac. It sucked the leaves and soil right out of there, and the 90 degree bend ended up being ideal to swing around in the cracks to get everything out.