colinnwn

My biggest problem was making my own bearing preload socket. I think i used a Jeep one and ground part of the tongs off to fit. I also had to get a low setting torque wrench. Other than that, if you've done brakes before, and you installed your own Warns, it wasn't a big deal. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Do you have the factory service manual where you could follow the troubleshooting steps? They used to be available on the internet for download Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I thought someone developed a subframe lift for it? I never paid too much attention. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I'd do a 2 inch spring lift, and a 1 inch body lift. They are sold. Almost anything else you'd have to custom make. When you do the spring lift, I'd do manual hubs. I have this without the body lift. It has worked great for 7 years. The ride is a little harsh, but it handles a lot better. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I gained 1-2 mpg, or about 10%,and the steering is noticeably lighter. I did it to reduce wear on CV joints. I think your only 2 options are Warn and Mile Marker. Most seem to slightly prefer Warn. That's what I have because of past good experience and I liked their lower profile look. I was able to use my stock 2001 wheels with no modification. The only issue is the last time I took them off, there was some white flaky aluminum corrosion on the back side of 1 dial that serves as a dust cover, nothing touches it. But if I new in advance I probably would have painted them inside. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

If you bought a generic pigtail, it may be impossible for any of us to know. I'd use my multimeter (resistance setting, ohms or omega) on the old pigtail after chopping it off, and then on the new one, to be sure you are connecting the wires to the same pins. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

My fan started going real slow, and sometimes not turning on. Without going through troubleshooting your vehicle, the most likely culprits in order are fan resistor fan motor fan speed switch The fan speed switch is part of the entire climate control dash assembly. I had to replace that because the temp knob broke off the actuator cable. Then my fan started going on the fritz. Since the resistor is so cheap, I didn't even bother testing it, I just replaced it. Turned out it wasn't the problem. It was the fan, and I suspect that will be your problem too. Resistors probably almost never fail intermittently like you describe. You could remove the fan, and try applying 12 vdc power to it directly. Mine didn't budge when I tried that. You'd just need two female spade terminals to try it. I got all my parts from Courtesy Nissan, which seems to have about the best price. The resistor was like $20, and the motor and assembly approx $200 each. There are a bunch of places online and on ebay that will repair or exchange your Bose stereo if you want to stay original https://www.google.com/search?q=nissan+pathfinder+bose+stereo+repair They have such a poor reliability record in general, and I wanted native bluetooth, that I went with aftermarket. Here is my replacement story http://colinnwn.blogspot.com/2009/06/installing-aftermarket-stereo-in-2001.html

Hi, The vinyl on my center console armrest is deteriorating. The patent finish is flaking off on my arm, and it has a fake suede feel now. I looked at Courtesy Parts, and the replacement is $208. That's a little more than I was wanting to spend. Has anyone else had this problem and found a good fix? I've thought about taking it to a local auto upholstery shop to see if they could recover it and how much it would cost. Thanks.

It started bucking first, but then the alternator light stayed on. In my altima and maxima the regulator us built into the alternator. I believe it is the same for all post 1990 Nissans. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Something similar happened to my Altima (manual transmission so no O/D light flash) but all other symptoms were the same, when the alternator or voltage regulator started intermittently going out. I'd suspect that this could also happen if you have a shorting battery cell pulling down the system voltage. Nissan ECUs have a limp home mode, where if the ignition coils and fuel injectors don't have enough power to fire, it will run ok up to about 2000 RPM, but will cut hard above that RPM.

Usually you can tell the difference when your AC is malfunctioning. It goes from cold, to coolish or nothing. In Dallas when it is 100, it takes about 30 minutes of driving until I'm cool enough to direct the vents away from me. I'd look into heat reflecting film for your windows like they have for homes. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I should have included this http://colinnwn.blogspot.com/2007/12/installing-suspension-lift-on-my-2001.html?m=1 Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I have the 4x4parts.com 2 inch lift springs and have no problem with topping out. I replaced factory struts with KYB at the same time, who manufacturer the factory ones. I also have warn manual hubs and the eccentric strut alignment bolts. If I was doing it again I might go with OME lift springs, but I don't think you can go wrong either way. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I've seen some bearings in terrible shape. That sounds like what happened. It wouldn't throw grease but it could ooze out if it got hot from friction. To verify if you are wanting to get out as cheaply as possible, you'll have to pull the hub to see if the race is acceptable, but it may be toast. Not sure best place to get a new axle or hub new. Always could junkyard it. And there is LKQ. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

The ScanGauge attached to my 2001 Nissan Pathfinder runs about 177 dF during sustained 75 mph runs during the winter in Dallas, and at most 198 dF during the summer. Never seen it go above that. It has the 3.5, and it is a manual transmission 4x4.

The JWT Pop Charger http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/ is just an oil gauze cone air intake filter replacement for the standard panel paper filter. It is supposedly less restrictive and smooths the flow of air into the intake a little bit. I had one on my Maxima, it made a very small but noticeable difference, not really at low RPMs though, it was more mid to high. Haven't felt like it was worth doing to my Pathfinder. It will work fine on the coarse sand of the Gulf Coast. But if you live in an area that has very fine dust, I've heard that they do tend to let that through more than paper filters. There is a reason they are less restrictive. My 2001 has the 3.5. I liked it much better than the 3.3 when I was shopping for mine several years ago. But none of these engines make monster torque at low RPM. That's why you got to keep it in first longer or use 4L as suggested above. Don't be afraid of the RPM! Japanese engines just expect to operate a little differently than Americans used to Detroit engines operate.

When I replaced the injectors on my Maxima, afterward it wouldn't start until I depressed the accelerator about half way and cranked a few times. It was like the system was air locked but the ECU wasn't smart enough to realize it. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Yes the ones I had trouble with had the champion brand on them, but many higher quality filters including Mobil1 are made by them. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Champion branded filters used to cause clattering on my Maxima. The OEM filters seem to have reduced in quality. Here is a great site that does independent teardowns. Go to the end and click the link for his opinion. http://wetwesties1.tripod.com/oilfilterstudy/#w51515 Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I've got 230k miles on mine. It never used oil before when I bought it with dino or after when I switched it to 5-30 synth. That is until recently where I can smell the occasional drip of oil onto a hot exhaust. Unsure what is causing it. Had similar problem in my VG powered Maxima until I tightened up the very loose at that point valve covers. I have no idea yet how hard this will be on a VQ, or if it is coming from the other place I've heard of, the rear main seal. After I found Mobil 1 switched from PAO to VISOM based oil I quit using it and just get the house brand full synthetic wherever I am. Nissan oil filters give me start up clatter which using the Mobil 1 oil filters almost completely eliminated. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Can't advise on codes, but manual Pathies don't have the power valve screws. Someone on the forum launched in to locktite them and came up blank. Turned out only the autos have them. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Somehow I wasn't getting notifications about these posts. The silicone spray you used was it dry or wet. Did it make your truck smell like a refinery? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

I have one of these http://www.scangauge.com/ It's fuel economy readout, gallons used, and range left in tank is balls on after I set its fuel flow offset by plus 35% with a 3.5 liter engine. I'm not sure how they determine the standard fuel injector by engine size if the ECU isn't reporting it's actual usage. But in my case it was wrong but they had a method to fix it. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

I believe 2000 was the last year it was offered. But I'm sure you could confirm with some google-fu Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

I don't know of anyone that replaces just a strut boot because it is such a pain. The struts aren't that expensive compared to the labor of replacing them. They just run them till they die. The boot just keeps some of the dust out of the strut rod seal. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk