colinnwn

If it is anything like the manual climate control in my 2001, there are 2 steel cables for the temperature and air selector, that only allow the control unit to come out an inch or so without detaching the cables at the mix boxes. I never found instructions or replacement bulb sizes in either the truck owners or service manuals for the A/C and recirc switches. I have the old control unit out of my truck, and they don't appear to be removable at all. My new control unit came with 2 new switches already installed in them.

You said the exhaust is choking you but not that it was smoking? Mine was using about a quart per 3000km. It was stinky but only occasional whisp of smoke from the engine compartment. Mine was a leaky passenger valve cover. It is still using a little bit of oil but haven't tracked it down yet. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

After some considerable additional pain - a major victory. The only other thing I did was replace the fuel filter and cleared the code. I haven't replaced the spark plugs, or coils. The Pathfinder is running smoother than it has in about a year, and the code hasn't come back. I noticed when I removed the filter, some of the gas that poured out of it on me looked slightly brown. I guess I got some bad gas. Thanks XPLORx4 for encouraging me to do the simpler and cheaper stuff first! I can return the coils to PartsGeek, they have a return policy for unopened items. They'll be the first place I look for parts now because of it. For the past week, I left the fuel intake hose on the new filter with the too large hose clamp finger loose. Somehow in that time, the hose had glued itself onto the new filter tighter than even the 6 year old filter. I tried to twist the hose to break the seal with rag covered pliers, but it wouldn't budge. I tried to wiggle and pull the hose off so hard that the hose was stretching like a rubber band. Doing that I bent the metal filter bracket to where it no longer holds the filter tight. I finally had to use the pliers in one hand, and my other thumb between it and the filter casing to wiggle and lever the hose off. It took me another hour to get a single stupid hose off. Total time to replace a fuel filter - 2.5 hours. I'm not sure that the next time I will be able to get it off without damaging the hose. And Nissan made it to where you have to DROP the fuel tank to replace that hose !!! I'll be so mad when I have to either do that, or pay to have it done. There really isn't enough vulgar words for the Nissan Engineers involved in this.

I didn't have that problem. Looks like that Derale is hard set to 180/165. 165 seems pretty low for a cut off. Mine cuts off at 177 by OBD. Also did you push the sensor through from the engine side and into the grille side next to the upper radiator inlet? That's how I did mine and saw where people had trouble that oriented it differently. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Yeah either I'll have to take a couple hours off work tomorrow to align my schedule with my wife's, or Uber is a good idea. It is all a tradeoff, money or time, but I was trying to avoid a $1000 bill. The frustrating part to me is that I feel like on the Pathfinder, Nissan made things hard that didn't need to be hard. I know with every new model in general that becomes more true with cars for both cost savings and servicing revenue. I never felt truly frustrated working on my 1990 Maxima. I understand in the VQ engine why changing the spark plugs are a bear. But they could move pigtail connections out, create test points, sell a consumer version of the Consult 2 for a reasonable price, etc. to make diagnosing and repairing easier. But there was really no reason they didn't do some easy and extremely cheap things to make replacing the fuel filter easier.

I remember the last time I changed the fuel filter it was miserable. But I forgot how obscenely unpleasant it was. I hope the Nissan Engineer that put it there got demoted to shop helper, and spends his retirement destitute begging on the street. I don't have enough vile 4 letter words for him. I've been working on it for 90 minutes, had my chest and arms covered in gas 3 times. I'm so nauseated from the smell I'm about to throw up. And I'm still not done. This next part was my fault. The new hose clamps I had left over from the last fuel filter change were apparently the bigger of the 2 sizes in the package and were too large. Now I have to get some smaller ones, then take the hoses off again to swap the clamps. I'm not sure how I'll get to the train station tomorrow to go to work.

No I only get P1320, no other codes. I remember replacing the spark plugs about 6 years ago. I used genuine NGK from Courtesy Nissan. Unless one was defective, they should be only about 60% through their life. I only put about 10k on my truck per year. Replacing the plugs was a 4 hour ordeal. So I only have time and patience to do this once as far as gaining access to the plugs and coils. Otherwise it will have to go to the shop. My wife is already trying to convince me to just take it to the local hole in the wall shop once the parts do get here. For a half second I thought about trying to unplug coils to find the defective one, or by taking the time to order and use the low amp probe with oscilloscope method. But I don't see how to unplug individual coils without pulling off the intake and replacing it for each coil until I find the defective one. There is absolutely no way I would do that. Am I missing something? Is there an easy way to unplug individual coils? And from what I've read that the chances of more coils going out once the first one does are very high. If I actually do have a bad coil, I don't have any problem with the $400 to replace them all. I'll just be really upset with myself if it turns out to be something entirely different.

I replaced the air filter because it was a little dirty. I put a can of Seafoam in the gas, and sprayed a can through the intake. I haven't had time to replace the fuel filter yet. I drove it after that. It is running considerably worse, and the SES light is staying on, but no additional codes. I doubt the fuel filter will magically fix this. But I am going to replace it while I wait on the additional parts. I don't have the time to do the plugs, and if that doesn't fix it, tear the intake off again to do the coils. I guess I'm going to order the Hitachi coils from Parts Geek for about $350, and do the plugs and coils together. I really hope this fixes it. It will be disappointing to spend $400 on it if it isn't fixed. I hate throwing parts at problems. But I also don't have the time to do the diagnosis properly. Oh, Seafoam needs to work on that spray cleaner system more. I thought I was going to get carpal tunnel before it ran out. I couldn't tell it was done because the aerosol ran out before the contents did. And even with me trying to hold the straw on the nozzle, it popped off about 6 times. I have that spray all over the engine compartment, and on my arms and in my face and...

Certain things, like using generic auto parts store spark plugs rather than the NGK platinum spark plugs, seem to cause people problems. Just wanted to be sure this wasn't the case with the fuel filter. I was shocked that Nissan quit carrying it. I'm surprised they felt it necessary to actually switch the housing, rather than just improving the filter media inside. They do still make the supercharged Xterra fuel filter. The picture looks the same. But I didn't want to mess around buying it unless it was known to work.

Certain things, like using generic auto parts store spark plugs rather than the NGK platinum spark plugs, seem to cause people problems. Just wanted to be sure this wasn't the case with the fuel filter. I was shocked that Nissan quit carrying it. I'm surprised they felt it necessary to actually switch the housing, rather than just improving the filter media inside. They do still make the supercharged Xterra fuel filter. The picture looks the same. But I didn't want to mess around buying it unless it was known to work.

Courtesy Nissan Parts page says the fuel filter 16400-0W005 for all 1997-2004 Pathfinders has been discontinued, and it doesn't list a replacement part. Does anyone know if there is an unlisted OEM alternate? Or just getting the filter listed at any auto parts store like Advance Auto Carquest 86023 is fine?

So it did it again this evening and I immediately pulled the code and got a P1320. This seems to be the infamous primary ignition random misfire code, that is frequently, but not always fixed by replacing all the coils. I have no problem doing this, but I'll be disappointed if it doesn't fix it. The spark plugs are about 60k miles old. When I last replaced them at 150k miles pre-emptively they were well worn but in reasonable shape. It would suck to do all the work to replace them, and have to dig back in if it didn't fix the problem to do the coils. I'll run a can of injector cleaner. I'm not sure how to seafoam the throttle body. I've only done that to a carbureted vehicle. Is it really the same, just pour slowly in the intake after removing the air filter? The air filter looks clean and is only about 20k miles old. But I dust it out every 5k. The fuel filter was also replaced at 60k, but I will do that as well.

Hi, Last night coming home my Service Engine Soon light flashed about 10 times. At the same time the engine seemed to be running a little rough. The light quit flashing and the engine smoothed out. I didn't have time to check it right then. But this morning I went out and checked for trouble codes using my ScanGauge2. It is saying there are no stored codes. Has anyone had the SES light flash and not have a stored code? You don't have to have a Nissan Consult to check them do you? Thanks.

I had the same problem as your second issue (a couple turns of the key required to get it to start, especially when cold). Eventually it wouldn't reliably start, but since mine is a manual, I push started it several times. For me it was sticking starter motor brushes. I could have gotten it rebuilt, but I just had a new one put in.

Do you have a fresh fuel filter? I had something similar happen to my 1990 and 1996 Maxima and it was a failed fuel injector. The 1996 Maxima eventually did throw a misfire trouble code. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

In case you haven't found it already, here it is. Apparently I was a little punchy after doing it. Aside from being awkward, it wasn't as bad as I made it sound. As a person doing it the first time, the hardest part might be figuring out how to remove your center vents and center dash molding. I had already done that several times replacing stereos. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39730-temp-or-vent-selector-knob-doesnt-work/

Just saw this. None of the 2001 Pathfinder HVAC runs on vacuum. It is all cable driven for temp and vent output. Search my posts on the forum. It should come up. If I can remember I will search at home on my laptop. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

What is it doing, as far as what are the symptoms? Have you pulled the fan box and you can visually see a broken blend door? My temp knob started turning with no resistance and no affect on temperature. Turned out the lever connecting the knob to the cable on the back of the panel broke. I could have perhaps epoxied it together, but I could tell the rest of the frame plastic was getting old and brittle so I just replaced the entire control panel. It was pretty easy to do and the part I think cost $160 at Courtesy Nissan. If you are a big shoulder or big hand person, you may have to get someone else to do it. I have a write up in this forum of doing it. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

You could also look at the immobilizer bypass modules that are sold by companies like Axxess. I haven't investigated but they may require a working immobilizer to program. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

OBD readers won't work. You need a Consult 2. But if the new antenna and system is working, it might have lost programming and locked out due to the failed start attempts. You could try the home re-pair procedure. Insert your key, turn to on without starting and leave it 5 seconds, remove the key for 5 seconds, repeat 3 times and it is supposed to reset. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Mine was making that noise which mostly went away on 4, and within a couple months it ran real slow, and then one day just wouldn't come on. I didn't do proper troubleshooting and tried sucking the few leaves out that were in the filter box, and getting a new resistor, but that didn't fix it. Getting a new fan assembly did fix it. It was extremely simple to replace. The fan is probably not the problem, it is probably the motor brushes are worn out. But it isn't serviceable and must be replaced as an assembly.

I know the AC lift springs ride rough. But do you remember what your truck handled like before? I like my truck handling 100% better with them. I feel much more secure going around curves. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Obd2 ports have only been mandated since 1996. I have a ScanGauge II on my 2001, and it works great. No other power connection. Turns on and off with the truck. I can see all reported sensor values and after entering a calibration value and tank size, it is extremely accurate for mpg and miles to empty. Two drawbacks are it's kinda old-school and bulky, and you have to confirm each tank fill up. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

It happened after a little while. I'll check those things. I need to get a new floor jack before I can test for looseness in the wheels. Thanks Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I have a problem I'm wondering if is related to this. My brakes are silky smooth if I brake hard or soft below 50 mph, or soft above 50 mph. But if I brake hard above 50 mph I get significant vibration in the pedal, and in the front end. I used the lowest allowed bearing preload in the service manual. Is that possibly the cause? Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk