colinnwn

If it is like my 01, there are 2 rubber bushings at the top of the brake pedal arm, and one bushing on my clutch pedal arm. They all got brittle and fell out last year. On the brake, they are used to contact the switches that control the brake lights, and cruise control disengagement. When my brake light one fell out, I had a dead battery because the brake light switch is a normally closed switch. When the cruise one fell out, the cruise wouldn't engage. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

VQ or VG? On the VQ was just reading you have to drop the front subframe and jack the engine up a bit. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Manual transmission. But I do have the 2001 FSM if you need it. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'd change the fluid and the filter, and check the resistance of the AT temp sensor. Not sure how hard that is to get to. I have a manual. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

No they aren't necessary. But this is an easy time to replace them if they are more than maybe 6 years old. I bought KYB branded struts which is the OEM manufacturer. They are just a bit cheaper. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I went with a coil lift because I wanted a firmer ride and better handling. I did this like 10 years ago. I also bought struts, shocks and a camber bolt kit. With a car this age, you should also get new strut bearings and isolators. Can't advise on spacer lift. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Shocks aren't supposed to support the weight of the truck, so if it's sagging that much, you probably need new springs too. If you jump on the back of the truck, once you jump off, it should immediately recenter and stop. If it continues to bounce around, the shocks are blown. If you can move the shocks easily with your hands when you get them off, they're blown. I bought my truck about 10 years ago with 130k miles. The shocks failed pretty quickly. The springs seemed ok, but I installed 2 inch lift springs from A/C Customizers anyway. If I could do it over, I'd probably have used OME lift springs because I understand they are a little softer. It rides a little rough now, but it handles much better. At that time I bought some Rancho shocks that A/C Customizers said were factory fit. They weren't, but I made them work, and they are going strong today at 250k miles, so can't really advise on shocks. You don't need extended length shocks though, especially if you don't extend your rear brake lines. Your first 4wd SUV brake job will be a long and messy job compared to a passenger car. But it is entirely doable if you accept it as a learning opportunity, go slow, and use the factory service manual. I haven't used the brands you are considering. Though my ceramic pads may have been Centric. I replaced my front brake pads with ceramic about 3 years ago I think, that I bought pre-emptively about 8 years ago. I used Autozone mid-grade brake rotors. Within a year they had developed brake jidder. After research I don't really blame the rotors. I think I didn't pre-clean them thoroughly enough, and I may have pressed on the brake after some high speed hot stops, which is a no-no. I replaced them with NAPA's store brand high grade rotors, and cleaned the hell out of them with soap and water, and then degreaser, and was very careful to not contaminate them with grease when re-installing. So far, so good. Hub/wheel bearing replacement is overkill if you are able to set the pre-load correctly and don't find evidence of a spun bearing when you are in there after cleaning everything up initially. I did replace the grease seals, and used synthetic grease in one of those bearing greasing cups that pushes clean grease thoroughly through the bearing. You'll need to buy the bearing socket, or get the Ford 4 prong socket and grind off 2 of the prongs, and shape the other 2 tongs down to work on the Pathfinder. Some people also completely wing the pre-load process. I half did. I used my regular torque wrench to tighten the bearing nut down to the spec (which is very high), rotated the hub as you are supposed to, backed off the nut until it was free, and then I didn't have a torque wrench that had a low enough range to set the final pre-load. If you want to do it right, you need one that goes down to about 10 inch pounds. In the end I did it by feel. Then if you want to be able to validate you got it right, you should buy a fish scale so you can use it to measure the brake force to start the hub turning.

Tie rod ends? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

You shouldn't need new coils unless you buy the package to just avoid building them up yourself with a McPherson strut compressor. You also need the strut mount isolators that go at the top in the case you don't use the pre-built strut package. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Did you replace the radiator cap too in case it has failed? If the radiator was good, and it wasn't just some bad luck, the next thing I'd suspect is exhaust gas leaking into the coolant. Have you tried one of those test kits for exhaust gas in the coolant? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Bump stop replacement also isn't common to a strut replacement. But at the age of the truck it might be reasonable. And it should be very cheap to do with non OEM parts. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Sorry I should have said sway bar ends not tie rod ends. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

In the US at least, you could get the complete quick change strut package pair for $400 from any generic part store. You could probably get OEM equivalent pieces for about the same you have to assemble. If you were handy and had normal hand tools, you'd only need buy or borrow a McPherson strut compressor for $60 if you didn't use the quick change struts. An alignment is $80 and preferred but not strictly necessary. Tie rod ends are not part of a normal strut replacement, but maybe they looked at yours and they were worn. If you drive like grandma on city streets then waiting a little while is probably OK. But if you drive on the highway or even a little aggressive, a wobbly front end is dangerous and could contribute to an accident especially during an evasive maneuver. In the US for a normal strut replacement, not including tie rod ends, but including an alignment, a reasonable price I would expect $800. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I bought mine 13 years ago at 135,000 miles and had similar usage. Today I'm at 255,000 miles and I use between 0.5 and 1 qt a month, but as I said I think a lot is leaks. I do have a lot more startup valve lash than I used to even with an excellent oil filter with good anti drain back valve. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

How much? Up to a quart every 1000 miles or 30 days seems common. Mine does it. But I think at least half is leaking rather than being burnt. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'd imagine you have a very slow freon leak. You need to decide if you are going to take it to a pro, or DIY. If DIY I'd buy a vacuum pump and see if you can pull a good vacuum. If you are successful, just try refilling freon and see if it fires up. If you can't pull a vacuum, add leak finder and get a UV light and go to town. Hopefully it will just be a pinhole leak in a rubber line. That was my problem, and about the best case you can hope for. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I live in Dallas so we get above 100 regularly with higher humidity, but not as hot as you. When I'm moving, I've been fairly satisfied with AC performance. I have thought about putting darker heat blocking window tint on. When my radiator fan was failing the AC was getting too hot at stops too. I replaced it with a Flexalite Black Magic shrouded electric radiator fan, which also made a big difference. I noticed there is a foam gasket between the condenser and radiator to channel air, that has completely deteriorated which I wondered if it would help to replace. It seems to take a little longer to start cooling than it used to. I heard that an old compressor can cause that if the seals are worn, but you would know better than me. Where could you put another condenser? I assume it wouldn't help to put it in front of the current one. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I didn't have to extend mine with a 2 inch spring lift on KYB struts and Rancho shocks. Not sure if spacer lift would change that. I understand KYB is the OEM strut manufacturer. And don't get the Rancho shocks if anyone still says they fit. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yeah I had to review my old post about the problems I was having. I put in NKG Iridium LFR5AIX-11. They are 60k sparkplugs, I think per the mfg website. I forgot I had done that and had 100k sparkplugs. They made it to 80k in my truck before it was running rough, misfiring, bucking occasionally and throwing SES light for sporadic miss fire. I tried new fuel filter, new ignition coils. It would get a little better for a little while, until I tried sparkplugs. Sure enough the gap was double, they were worn to one side, and replacing them definitively fixed it. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I don't think there is any chance they are original. These engines need spark plugs about right on time 100k if factory NKG platinum, 60k if lesser Iridium, or the engine runs terribly within 10k. Getting to the plugs is a little bit of a pain on the driver side, you have to remove the air filter box and intake tube. After you get to the plugs you shouldn't have any worries. Be sure you are using the right size socket, that you are turning it the right way, and that you keep the head firmly down on the spark plug as you turn. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

This oil loss only started for me about 3 years ago. Redoing the valve gaskets improved my consumption for a while. I do have evidence of leaks on the lower engine. Just never see it on ground. I've never seen mine smoke. I'd be surprised if it could eat that much without burning up your cat and throwing the emissions code. The power valve screws were only on automatics. Mine is a manual. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Are you sure it is eating it as in burning it, or just spilling it? Common leak points on these engines are the valve cover gasket, the oil pan gasket, and the rear main seal. Mine looses about a quart a month. I've redone the valve cover gaskets. I'm going to do the main seal when I have to do the clutch. I think the oil pan gasket is pretty hard to redo. I don't see drips on the ground. I guess it drips out while moving. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

265/70R16 fit fine under mine with the 2 inch AC lift springs. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I found the K&N system barely used on eBay for $180, and that was within my budget. The install was easy. K&N only made a couple small errors in the instructions and hardware included. A couple bolts were missing from the previous owner. I'm very impressed. This made a much bigger difference than the POP charger I put on my 1990 Maxima. I probably had some leaks from the old cracking intake tube. It smoothed out my idle, the truck is noticeably peppier, and it seems to pull harder where I have to let up on the accelerator more quickly. It also has a nice growl above 3000 RPM. It's better than I expected. I would still have problems paying $330 for it. But at $180, it's a no brainer for me. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The plastic had worn completely off the steel coil sheath in many places. And in the pic where you can see the steel cable, that shouldn't be possible. It is molded and crimped together from the gasket on the inside bracket to the throttle knob exit. The pedal didn't seem to be binding. But I didn't want to try my luck. If I was limping the truck along for less than a year, I wouldn't have done it. But I'm still trying to keep it as my daily driver as long as possible. The pedal feel is much nicer than it's been in years. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk