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My cargo area interior light doesn't come on initially, and only flashes when I open the tail gate, unless I stick my finger in the lock assembly in the tail gate and jiggle the latch around. Looking at the parts breakdown it looks like the switch isn't separately serviceable, and you have to replace the $180 tail gate lock assembly 90330-0W010. Has anyone else had this problem and figured out how to either replace the switch only, or clean it up enough that it continued to work? It seems ridiculous that you have to replace this whole part for what is a $2 switch, and you can get equivalent passenger door replacement switches for $15. Thanks

Is this person talking about the ignition condenser? I have a VQ. I couldn't find it documented anywhere except in the part catalog, but I found it on mine. It is taped up and looks like a tiny black automotive relay. I could show you, but it is probably in an entirely different place on the VG. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I got home, added brake fluid but it was almost full, checked the battery terminals were tight, checked the alternator fuse which was fine, checked the voltage at rest which was 12.3v, and then started it up. Of course it didn't do it again and the voltage running was 14.4v. So it's probably an intermittent fault that will go at an inopportune time. I think it is likely the voltage regulator going, or I noticed the wires on the field plug on the alternator were tight the last time I replaced it, I hope they aren't breaking loose. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

So I jumped in my truck to go to the Red Bull Air Race. It started fine, but the brake and alternator lights stayed on. Also I have a Scan Gauge that didn't turn on. When I turned the truck off, then the Scan Gauge came on for a moment as it normally stays on for a bit when you turn off the vehicle. It has a 1 year old rebuilt original Hitachi alternator. I didn't get any other lights including no check engine light. When I get back if the OBD port still isn't producing power, I'm not sure how to check for codes, if there is a OBD reader that doesn't require power, or if I'd need to use the ECU service mode. I guess the next step is to do an alternator test. But it is a huge bear to remove for an off vehicle test. Does anyone have other ideas to check first? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I got the manual hubs for the slightly better gas mileage, maybe 1 mpg better, lighter steering, and so I could go longer between CV joint and boot replacements. At 260k, with the first 135k on the locked hubs I've not had to do a change yet. I hadn't heard of other front axle issues though. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I've only noticed it top out once. I missed that the curb started instead of a driveway, hit the curb at about 5 mph, caught a little air and heard them bang before I came down. But I wouldn't be surprised if they occasionally do top out and I don't notice. They are a little harsh and ride rough. Nothing like any factory vehicle available in the last 30 years. If you have ever driven a IH Scout, about like that. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Mine has had a 2 inch AC spring lift for 10 years. Never had any driveline vibration or problems with getting it aligned or poor tire wear patterns. I do have manual front hubs, and my tires wear fast but evenly because I drive a little hard. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Are you asking if that is the correct one? In general RockAuto has great prices, and Hitachi is generally the OEM for many electronic parts on Nissans so it is a safe "generic" to use. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Of all the problems I had, I didn't have too much problem with that one. I used a magnetic pick up tool for the tabbed nut to hold it up. One of the times I was able to wedge it to stay on its own, while I started the bolt myself. The other time I held the magnet while my wife spun the wrench on the bolt a few times to start it. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'd start with the easy stuff first. Replace the fuel filter which isn't fun. And then when mine did the same thing it ended up being the spark plugs. I didn't belive it because they were at only half their mileage. But I forgot and had used cheaper plugs. They were in bad shape. And be sure to pull the codes. Mine was misfire on various cylinders. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

46584-5P010 I generally use NissanPartsDeal because of their great diagrams and linked part data. It looks like in the last 6 months Nissan has discontinued them, but they are still available for about $12 from various places. It's a lot for a little dot of rubber. But since it is still my daily driver, I like to leave as much original as I can, unless I think I can do it better. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-rubber-stopper~46584-5p010.html

Fixing the weatherstripping on the passenger side didn't keep dampness out of the passenger floorboard. We've had a rainy previous week in Dallas. This weekend I held the wet dry vac nozzle to the driver's side floorboard carpet for about 45 minutes, and sucked out just over 1 gallon of water. Because I rarely have a passenger, and their heels don't dig into the carpet under the pedals to squeeze the water up, I didn't have any success pulling water out of the passenger carpet. The water seems to emerge from just below the top of the dash area around the door frame, and drips down the door, on driver and passenger sides. During some storms both sides get wet, and other storms only one side gets wet. I finally figured out how to pull off the A pillar, hoping to see if I could verify the sunroof drains were still connected and in good shape. The pillars are held by 2 snap points, one at the top, and one about half way down, and then the pillar just pulls up and away from the dash. No such luck on getting any access to the sunroof drain hoses. I did run a 14 gauge copper wire down the sunroof drains again. The last time it didn't help. There is a small nick in the sunroof seal right above the passenger side front drain. But I've never had any water drip from above, or along any part of the A-pillar. And I didn't see any stains in the plastic to indicate water running down it. The entrance to the drain in the sunroof was a little clogged with old grease especially on the driver's side. This time I decided I'd be brave since I have only one other idea and little to lose. I set my air compressor to 40 psi, and later to 60 psi and blew air down the sunroof drains. We'll see if this makes any change. My only remaining idea for where this water may be coming from is the rubber seals around the windshield are old and cracking in places, so I've wondered if due to poor drainage design, water is coming in above and around the windshield and runs inside around the dash corners. Does anyone know if new windshields come with all new rubber? If they don't, can they be provided by most windshield replacement companies for additional charge, or do I have to see if Nissan is still making them? Thanks.

It's going to depend a lot on your foot, how much stop and go city driving you do, and how long your trips are since warm ups take a lot more gas. Also the condition of the truck matters. When my radiator fan clutch locked up it hit my mileage a lot. Vacuum leaks from crumbling old hoses, and some people have seen a big jump in mileage from replacing the MAF sensor. As a comparison, I have a 4wd manual. I get between 16 and 20 mpg in city driving about 45 min long trips. I have a pretty heavy foot, but I also do hypermiling techniques like coasting up to stops, and trying to avoid hitting the brake as much as possible. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

That's great you figured out an obstinate problem, and it was an inexpensive fix. I always feel a lot better when I finally do. I wouldn't be too down on" internet pros". They can't diagnose your problem in person. Also like a doctor, multiple problems can cause similar symptoms, so generally you start with the cheapest and easiest and most common fixes. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I used the exact same plastic rivnut for a temporary fix. But mine was small enough it could vibrate out with the pedal pushed. It worked fine for a month. But I went ahead and fixed with the OEM part since it wasn't terribly expensive. I figured the rubber might also be helping stop pedal vibration, and prevent erosion of the plastic pushrod. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I don't mean using a product or having a shop do a machine flush. I just mean drain thoroughly and replace the fluid. Doing it twice might be good if particularly dirty. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I would flush and fill the tranny fluid, and replace the filter if you haven't recently. Look for milky appearance that might indicate a cooler leak. If that looks good and no change, it is probably a sticking solenoid in the valve body and needs to be cleaned well and rebuilt maybe just the valve body. But if follow the SM troubleshooting first. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I have a manual partly because of the Torqueflite in my old Scout. So no specific advice, but I have some suspicions. I wouldn't get too excited yet. If you don't like to do your own work, take it somewhere for a diagnostic you trust, then if it's bad start talking to them about rebuild vs JY replacement. If you like to do your own work, have you read the service manual troubleshooting section for the AT? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The specific model I bought have HID low and halogen high beams, which should really be called halogen lower beams as they seem dimmer than the HID low. But I felt like the visibility of the low beam HID was greater than my factory halogen bulb high beams. I've been flashed once now with someone thinking I had my high beams on and they were the lows. So they probably project more than the halogen low beams, but it doesn't seem to bother most drivers. Kensun has another model that has an electrically operated shutter inside the bulb to control the low vs. high beam throw, so that would be something to consider if you like HID better. They were a bit more expensive but not outrageous.

They are still doing great. If one of them went out today, I'd look at the LED options. But if I didn't like those, I'd have no problem buying these Kensun HID bulbs again. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I've had a years long battle with wet floorboards after rains, and dripping inside from the door frames approximately where the dash starts. I finally noticed the weather stripping is 2 parts glued together which is now failing. What ignorant fool at Nissan thought this was a good idea? Anyway I tried to glue it back together using this 3M product and it is a piece of crap. You are supposed to spread it thinly and evenly on both surfaces. It is impossible to do. The stuff tacks up in 3 seconds and starts balling up as you try to spread it. If you try to mush it together it doesn't stick for about 10 minutes and will pull off both sides and drop the weather strip if you aren't holding constant pressure across the 3 feet you are trying to fix in one go for a seamless waterseal. I'm so mad at it I'm having a hard time not throwing my phone across the room. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

It's hard to get a good picture, but the steering column is to the bottom right, and in the middle are the 2 black bushings. I have pushed the pedal down about an inch for better access and visibility. Check to see if they are still there and don't fall out by touching them. They should be pretty impossible to move. Getting new ones in is a little bit of a bear. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I think those are the ones I've heard nothing fits without grinding down the lip that the cover snaps into, but the Warn is the most slim. Can you post a pic of the wheel to be sure? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Looks like we forgot to mention, before many people put on a lift, it is recommended to put on manual locking hubs. That can save you years of life on your CV joints, which are further stressed by a lift. They are also harder to replace that putting on a lift. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Could you see above your brake pedal what we are talking about to see if it is the problem? If not, maybe I can get a pic Sunday. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk