colinnwn

Yeah I found the door for the chip. I didn't know most aftermarket keys had a place for it. That remote looks almost exactly like an OEM Mazda remote and flip key. Were you also able to program that remote to the truck? Was it designed specifically for the Nissan remote system or do they have generics that work now? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

That's crazy. Did you just glue your chip next to the ignition? Or were you able to find a place to stick it to your flip key? Do you have a link to the flip key? Sounds interesting. Yeah $200 is ridiculous. I'll have to look around again. I thought it was something like open the door and insert and remove the key 10 times within 10 seconds. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

My spare had been lost. But I came home and searched harder and did find it. I'll swap them until the spare breaks, and if the Pathy is still healthy then, I'll deal with it. Small things that you touch everyday bother me when they are cobbled together, and tend to give me 'new' car fever. Though right now since I want another manual transmission SUV, I've only got a lower mileage R50, Xterra or I think FJ on my options list. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yes it is. Interesting it cost me $40 for key plus cutting, and no programming, for my wife's Honda. Do most of the aftermarket keys have a slot to put the immobilizer chip in? I think I saw a way to program a new immobilizer key without a Nissan Consult. If I remember that right I may see how much a factory blank is. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The Pathy is having a challenging couple of months with things breaking. Has anyone had their key break where the chain goes through? Were you able to do anything to avoid a key replacement? I'm thinking of trying to drill a new hole about a quarter inch in. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Definitely possible. I had the valve cover gaskets redone 2 months ago to reduce the approx 1 qt a month it was leaking and smelling of burnt oil at stop lights. Immediately after it is now losing 2 qts of oil a month. So they either messed something up, or unluckily an unrelated area let go. When I take it in, I'll mention the knocking and ask if it could be leaking headers. Everything down there is so tight and oily I don't think I could find it if it was leaking. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

It sounds more like the valve lash noise at engine startup, but I guess it could be injectors. I have a manual transmission, and everything I've read, including one person on this forum who took apart their intake, said the manual transmission engines don't have power valves or screws. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Hum... Now I hear the light ticking at idle too. But I can only hear it with my windows down. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Hi, I've noticed when I'm at highway speeds with the radio off and I lightly accelerate or decelerate, I can hear what sounds like light valve tick that lasts about 2 seconds and goes away until the next light accel or decel. I have no current OBDC codes. A while back I had the one that can be the sensor or the VVT assembly. I replaced the sensor and it hasn't come back. Has anyone noticed anything similar and know what the problem is? I'm concerned this means the engine has a big problem. Thanks. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Holy crap I can't believe they are still making aftermarket ammeters with a shunt in the gauge, that you have to run the alternator output wire in and out if the cabin. I wouldn't even install it. They used the same design in old Scouts and it would cause charging problems, and the firewall pass through would occasionally catch on fire as the truck aged, corrosion built up, and people installed higher output alternators. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Out of curiosity did you run the wires through the clutch firewall knock out plug or did you find another place? That's the next big issue with my brake controller. I've got a manual. I've looked at the wires going through the firewall behind the center stack and I didn't like that. I'm pretty sure I'm going to try to drill through the rubber plug next to the hood release cable and run them through the wheel well. But I'm afraid I'm going to make a mess. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

It should have come with a shunt. It can either measure output of the alternator or output of the battery. Depending on what you want to measure and the shunt rating, you have to splice the shunt into the positive terminal directly off the battery or directly off the alternator output. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Warns do not need the studs changed, at least on the 2001 with the manual transfer case and locked flanges. I don't remember if there are any differences across years or front drive options. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I took my radio and climate dash trim bezel off to install my electric brake controller display and manual activation lever. Getting the whole thing installed is a project that will never end. When I unscrewed the screws at top, the plastic ears broke off above the mid-point of the circle. I superglued the plastic back together to have a flat foundation, but I knew that would not be strong enough to last. So I used JB Weld to glue 2 metal washers to the plastic to reinforce it. It seems to have worked well. Just a warning if you take it apart, be ready for the plastic bits to fall off so you can find them. The 2nd pic shows how I installed the manual activation lever through one of the switch knock out panels.

I found one in great condition from an Ebay wrecker for $50 delivered. Totally worth not spending the time tromping around in a wrecker yard, that would have probably charged me the same anyway. Thanks.

I wasn't having this problem with my alarm. But when I opened the driver's side rear door, the interior lights would flicker, and occasionally they'd stay on, and sometimes they wouldn't with the door open. I replaced the door switch and it fixed it. I think I found the door switch on Amazon for $18 delivered. It was an aftermarket switch from SMP (Standard Motor Products). I've found it advertised as low as $12 other places, but S+H made it more expensive. My rear door hatch does this sometimes too, despite how hard I slam it. And going down rough roads, sometimes the interior light will flash on. The switch is internal to the latch and isn't independently replaceable. I think it is $200 new from Nissan USA. I found a website where you can order it from Japan for $110.

My 2001 owners manual says for all-mode 4wd that only ATF is ok. If it is manual shift transfer case ATF or API GL-4 is ok and to refer to the gear oil chart for viscosity recommendation. The chart has a range of options for temperate climates, but for the range of temps we see in the US, 75-90 and 80-90 would make the most sense. When I get around to replacing mine in a manual transfer case, I'm going with ATF I think. For my manual transmission, and LSD differential, I'll use 75-90.

What do you mean sensitive? My 2001 factory alarm has never gone off unless I hit the panic button. I don't think they have a motion sensor. I wonder if you have an intermittent door ajar switch. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

My link is from the guy selling them on here. I'm sure I could jack my truck up with it. It is a fairly thick gauge box steel member. Maybe using the squashed sheet metal pole for a missing link would be a little safer, but I wouldn't count my life on it if it really concerns you. All in all, R50 Pathfinders had pretty poor frontal collision crash ratings anyway. They crumpled at the door pillar and the front passenger compartment partially collapsed while transmitting significant loads to the occupants. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I don't think there is any way to be convinced that would happen without an engineering review if it concerns you. Just looking at it, by the time the engine block contacted the link hard enough to shear it I think the block would be greatly intruding into the footwell and firewall. Basically the engine depends on the strength of the firewall and floor panel to push it down and underneath. Now you've got a bar with connectors much stronger than sheet metal pinning it back up, and I think it will wedge between the two right into the passenger compartment. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

It's almost certainly because in a front end collision the engine is designed to drop down and slide under the vehicle instead of being pushed into the cabin. A missing link prevents that from happening. Having said that I went ahead and installed one because in many other accidents it would probably help or have no impact. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I've had the AC heavy duty 2 inch spring lift for the past 10 years. At the same time I changed the shocks and struts and put in manual hubs. I've had larger tires the whole time, right now 265/70R16s. I've had zero extra problems related to it. It rides really rough, but the handling is much better than stock. Just in the last 6 months I have a minor clunking in the front suspension when turning hard over a bump at slow speed. But at 260k miles and as hard as I drive it in the city, I think it is due to be a little tired. At this point with the youngest R50 being 15 years old, the last thing I would be worried about is resale value. I'd be more worried about spending a bunch of money on it and it not lasting long. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I went out to work on it, and of course the front speakers are working fine, after they didn't work all yesterday. So I'm going to wait until it is acting up again so I can verify that switching the relay out actually fixes it. Thanks.

Thanks. I was also doing more research and found this post where it says a faulty audio amp relay in the drivers rear quarter panel can cause the front speakers not to work. Now I'm conflicted on just replacing the speakers, or trying to do a quick fix of replacing that relay. I've tried to figure out how to remove that quarter panel before when I was trying to wire in my electric brakes, and I have no idea how to get that panel off. I'll look harder in the FSM after lunch, but it generally does a terrible job explaining how to remove interior plastic pieces. https://www.justanswer.com/nissan/4mi8i-nissan-datsun-pathfinder-le-2001-nissan-pathfinder.html

Does anyone know how to remove the front door panels to get to the front door speakers? I've done it on my 1990 Maxima, which was a bit fiddly and easy to break the connectors. But I've never found how to do it for the Pathfinder online. My front amp went out yesterday, and for a couple years my front right speaker hasn't sounded very good. So I'm going to try to bypass the amp and use the wiring that is already there to drive a new speaker directly off the head unit. I no longer have the Bose head unit, replaced it 10 years ago with a Pioneer. If anyone's done this and has advice, it would be welcome. Thanks.