colinnwn

And to clarify with the hubs in locked position, they act just like factory drive flanges, so the whole system is operating as designed. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I missed that you have an auto mode transfer case (dial not shift lever). Some people have not had issues with unlocked hubs and auto transfer case, others have. The auto mode system probably thinks you are experiencing slip, so engages the front drivetrain. With the front drivetrain unloaded from rolling resistance and rotating it isn't surprising it makes weird noise. I'm surprised it hasn't freaked out that the front wheels still aren't turning. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I don't think there is any way the hubs themselves. But you are running them in free mode right so you know it isn't the front drivetrain, and 4wd is off too. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I've never done it on a Pathfinder. I've done it on a 1990 Maxima and a 96. I'd ohm all injectors and if they are in spec leave them alone. My 96 needed 1 injector and never had a further problem. The 90 had known coil insulation problems. I replaced one and had another go bad in 2 weeks. Then I ohmed all injectors and 2 others were out of spec. At that point I did them all. Replacing one pintile cap is reasonable. But I wouldn't expect to open it up for inspection and strainer replacement on all of them, without having issues getting it back together with brittle plastic parts from years of heat, gas, and oil exposure. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I expect it is not available in the aftermarket You can look on the exploded parts diagram on NissanPartsDeal.com to see if it is available from Nissan and if the price is any better than the whole injector. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Matched sets are not required for non race vehicles. You are fine to buy a single. Remans were iffy on the old Maxima injectors specifically. I'd probably go for a new one. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I assume you did the simple thing first of checking the ATF fluid level to be sure it didn't start leaking? There would be a diagnostic procedure in the service manual, some of which may not require special tools. I only have the 2001 with a different transmission. If you can get ahold of the 99 service manual it would be good. Sounds like slipping bands. If you are lucky might be caused by a bum solenoid. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I would check the battery terminals for tightness. Preferably check alternator terminals too. I suspect bad alternator voltage regulator. Can sometimes be battery with one shorted cell. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I would probably replace the transfer case and differential fluid (along with LS additive as required) just to be sure they are full and correct. But I think this is a known issue if you search the forum, perhaps differential bearing or trailing arm bushings with too much play. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I haven't done it in a Pathy since mine was manual. I've done it on a Scout and Acura MDX. I know the recommended way is to have the car at operating temp. But I don't like risking a burn. After running the car for a sec and shifting through the gears, I double check the fluid level in the driveway and add (yes the cost of a little extra fresh ATF flowing out isn't a big deal to me) or remove to get it level. Then I drive it around the block only enough to mix the fluid and particulates and get it to about 120 degrees. Then I check the level one more time and do the drain and fill. I have an empty 5 qt oil jug with the clear measuring strip on the side to pour the old ATF into for the amount. Then I pour it into a Home Depot pail for returning for recycling and keep my handy old jug. Hopefully the Pathy has a drain since you said it was straightforward. If you have to crack the pan to drain, have a gasket ready. Damn things never reseal in my experience. I n my Scout I put in an aftermarket drain plug kit the first time I did it because it required cracking the pan. Don't forget to double check the fluid level at the end. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

If you are having any transmission issues, change the fluid. This is always safe to do as long as you replace with the recommended fluid. Just don't do a power flush. Worn ATF can look reddish on the dipstick but nasty black when you have 6 inches deep in a drain pan. In fact if you don't know the last drain and fill date, and your first drain is black, I'd do it a 2nd time within 1k miles. When you drain it, you are only replacing half the fluid on average each time. Also if you have a filter in the pan I'd replace it before serious transmission work. Once you think you have it stabilized, if the Pathy has an integrated radiator ATF cooler to make the pump output easy to access, I'd plumb a Magnefine magnetic filter into it. Also for the Honda with known radiator leaking into ATF issues, I bypassed the radiator and put the biggest external ATF cooler I could find in front of the radiator. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The only way I've run wires into the cab, and it would be a long route for this, is inside the driver wheel well to a grommet I took out that is just above and to the left of the hood release cable entry. I have a post about it related to installing electric trailer brakes. Finding that was probably the most miserable part of the whole install. I spent countless hours looking for some way to do this without just drilling a hole in the firewall. Then after all that work, my engine died within a year... Lol... Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Do you have the FSM? It makes it very easy to determine the line and color. Who knows how hard the access will be. I could look in mine, but it is for 2001 and could be considerably different since they have different engines. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I know on the 01 the relay is in the driver's side under hood relay box. I took it apart and tapped into it for controlling the power to my trailer 7 way plug through another relay. I think some years had the relay in the driver's side rear quarter panel. If you have the FSM for your year it has some pretty decent wire loom pics. It will tell you where the ECU is. It will also tell you what pin the fuel pump relay trigger wire comes off the ECU, and it's wire color and approximate routing to the relay. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Whoops sorry looks like your pic is the uprate version. I've been looking at the other for use in Honda OEM fluid. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

This stuff also gets high praise in the Acura MDX forums for the 2001-2006 models that have known transmission issues. Some people have put it in a transmission, along with fresh fluid, that just started shifting strangely and it has fixed it for an extended period meaning 10k or more miles. They have several formulations and a chart on their website for what to use it in. This one as I recall is for fluids that meet the individual car makers spec. There are others that can uprate a fluid - like take a generic Dextron 3 fluid and take it to the enhanced Honda equivalent. I don't know if Nissan requires this. I only owned manual transmission Nissans. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Sorry here is my better post on it http://colinnwn.blogspot.com/2009/06/installing-aftermarket-stereo-in-2001.html?m=1 Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Aftermarket radios have a standard remote interface, and several companies make car specific adapters. Nissan in particular requires you to create a little resistor network for the multiple remote outputs. http://colinnwn.blogspot.com/2009/06/pioneer-deh-p7100bt-car-stereo-review.html?m=1 Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The 2001 SE wheels fit Warns fine. You just leave the middle plastic hub cover off. I've read on here that the more modern looking wheels that came a year or two after that have to be ground down a bit in the center outboard bore to where it's hub cover would no longer work. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The Warn Lockomatics I had in my Scout definitely didn't lock in reverse. I had to get out in cold mud several times to lock them. Researching to see if my memory was totally faulty, I see they should have locked, but it is a common failure condition to not. This was 25 years ago, and I'm sure they weren't properly maintained. Some really old auto lock hubs had one way sprag clutches, but most have bidirectional locking roller bearings. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I think all R50s came with drive flanges. They mechanically connect the wheels to the front drivetrain. This also let you engage 4wd while moving. In addition to what everyone said, manual unlocked hubs make your steering noticeably lighter. And all these improvements occur regardless if you are lifted or not. But lifting increases the wear on the CV joints more, so that's when most people put them on. Auto locking hubs are a thing. Warn among others make them. They were offered on the previous gen Pathfinder. My old Scout had them. The drawback to them is you have to stop before shifting into 4wd. And the most common version lock only in forward. They unlock in reverse. So if you have to back out, you have to jump out and engage them. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'm pretty sure the throttle body had a lip on it that sits in a relief in the intake boot. I completely released the clamp band before I realized what the problem was. That's not necessary but you should be able to stick a pinky under the band. The boot is hard rubber so I had to go beyond wiggling, to putting significant muscle into prying it back and forth to get it off the lip. I figured it would break the first time, but it didn't. I did this maybe 3 times in my ~12 years of ownership. The last time the boot had deteriorated too much and was cracking. Nissan no longer supplies the boot, another company has taken over, and it was running about $250 for a new one on Parts Geek and it goes in and out of availability. So if yours cracks be ready to find a junker one in good condition, pay for a new one, rig something up on your own, or buy the K&N intake. I was lucky to find a used K&N intake on eBay for $180 when that happened.

No one I've seen has found a longer strut either. They are all about the same length. You just put a stiffer spring in which doesn't compress as much, or you do the spacer, or a SFD. I wouldn't want a longer strut anyway because then you run into the same problems of too big spacers or SFDs in that your suspension can extend the driveline further than it was designed to go. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

If it is bottoming out, you shouldn't fix it with shocks. Besides aftermarket spring shocks, shocks were originally meant to stop oscillations, not carry load. Either your springs are worn and you need new ones, or you are carrying loads exceeding the original design and need stiffer springs. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The R50 Pathfinders do not have service reminder lights. Can you post a pic of the light? If it is the engine light, you definitely have a stored code, or if not your ECM is probably messed up. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk