colinnwn

I don't know. I've never heard of a car do that. And I don't have the service manual for a VG to look it up. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

If it's a no longer functioning knock sensor many times you won't get a code. Premium gas should substantially reduce the pinging but may not eliminate it. If it helps, I would test the knock sensor or just replace if it is cheap. If premium doesn't do anything then I'd probably look elsewhere. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I couldn't tell you which one it is but predetonation does not need to sound violent. I could get my VQ to softly ping, like a regular cadence rattle, in a manual by flooring it in 2nd or 3rd gear from around 1,000 RPM. I figured this was because the knock sensor had pulled out all timing. In some engines it can sound more like a hard knock than a ping, but I haven't heard one I'd call violent. As a test have you tried a tank of premium to see if it's better? Could also try an octane booster bottle but I don't know if I trust them to raise the octane as much as they say. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I wonder how quickly the auto system works and if it has any stability improvement. In Dallas there is a loop over to an overpass, and right at the merge there is a bouncy lip transition to slick asphalt. Twice when it's been rainy, even though I was using barely any throttle to just maintain speed, when the rear wheels went over that lip the truck violently swung its butt around to where I was almost 80 degrees to the direction of travel. I lifted off the throttle and gently countersteered, and it swiped back the other way almost as violently. It took 2 swings back and forth to get it under control. I've wondered if the limited slip diff in 2 wheel mode made that worse. I got to where going over the lip I took my foot off the throttle completely and let it coast for a bit onto the asphalt. I know the R50 auto mode isn't meant for vehicle stability assist, but I wonder if it can react fast enough to sudden large wheel speed changes to dampen oscillations like that. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Do you need a copy of the service manual? It should show a basic description and some troubleshooting. It's interesting the light has only come on with the hubs locked and in 4hi. With the hubs locked its mechanically identical to the factory drive flanges. I actually thought that light comes on and stays on while in 4wd. That's how my mechanical system worked. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Could you tell if the system engaged the front drive shaft? Or was it smart enough to know the speed difference between the front wheels and front drive shaft was too high and did nothing? I think some of the people who reported problems were actually QX4s. I wonder if the system is any different. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Electronic anything is always something else that can break, but it sure seems like a relatively durable system based on the few problem posts on the board. The only time I'd let it sway a purchase decision is if I really wanted to be able to put on manual hubs. Several people have had problems with it throwing errors running manual unlocked hubs. And of course the 4x4 switch wouldn't work without locking manual hubs first, and forgetting to lock before hitting the switch might damage the system. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

And to be clear I bought mine at 135k miles and drove it to 265k miles before it got me. Though I would have liked it to live to 300k, I don't feel like I can complain too much. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

On VQ engines it's lifters. I've never heard of timing chain problems on these. For 1 second don't worry too much. That can stay that way for 100k miles. To minimize it, I'd suggest using a top quality filter with the best anti drain back valve. No Frams. Some swear by OEM Nissan, but my truck didn't like them. I used either Mobil 1 filter or Purolator Boss. There may be others, but if you aren't paying more than $15 it's probably the wrong filter for a VQ. Use a decent synthetic and stick to the 5-30 recommendation. Change your oil between 6k and 7.5k miles at least. Of course more frequent is fine. I just think it's a waste with a good synthetic and filter. I used to do 10 K mile oil changes. But as the engine aged and started thinning the oil faster, I didn't reduce the frequency fast enough. I think you've got a lot of life left in it if you do this. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Isn't that the bell housing, and that vent would be the torque converter case? If so you probably have a rear main seal leak draining through. RMS leaks are common over 150k miles. I had one I ignored. Does your mechanic have a service manual or subscription service? I was thinking the service manual procedure for either the oil pan gasket or RMS would be to drop the subframe. And yes if RMS you have to drop the transmission. I can't imagine removing the engine. But I never looked close. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

If the power valves weren't loctited in during the rebuild, eventuality they will fall out, suck into a cylinder, bang around for a while before they are ejected. The end result is damage to the cylinder wall and valves which will cause oil consumption, low cylinder pressure, and inability to pass emissions. You'll get to have another rebuild. This is a famous problem for these engines and should have been addressed by a competent rebuilder. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Rancho 5000 sounds right. They were advertised as fitting the Pathfinder by Automotive Customizers, but they definitely didn't without some modification on my part. They also seemed cheaply made. But I can't argue that they didn't last good. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I wouldn't put any oil additives in a VQ engine. They are known for too small oil passages that as they age cause start up ticking, as the oil struggles to get to the lifters. We had a 1996 Maxima with this issue, and my 2001 Pathfinder died of lifter death for the same reason. The Pathfinder always got good synthetic for at least the second 130k life I owned it. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

When I did my lift back around 2008 I reused my shock mount bolts. Some people need a camber kit for the front struts, which are basically eccentric lobe bolts for mounting to the knuckle. I'd also suggest replacing the strut top mounts with new OEM mounts, if you are paying for this to be done. When they wear out they clank. If you do the work yourself and don't mind redoing you could roll the dice. I bought my 01 in about 06 with 136k miles. I did my lift myself probably at 150k in 08. The only things I didn't do were assembling the spring on the strut (it was much too stiff) and the alignment. I drove it to 265k before it died. I never had to replace my strut top mount. But unless it was done by the previous owner, this is unusual service life. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The plastic ones have been known to crack, especially during reinstall. Don't remember the cut-in year but it may have been 03. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Also common to need to replace the valve cover gaskets and spark plug tubes. If you have the plastic valve covers expect to replace those. All of this can be done without removing the motor, but it's no fun. I had my mechanic redo the valve covers twice on mine. The 2nd time go the leak from a quart a week disappearing, to about a quart every 2 months. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Is this an automatic transmission Pathy and I think that's a VQ pan? If so inspect closely above the oil filter on the side of the engine. There is an adapter plate up there known to leak. It has the oil pressure sensor near, and may be part of an oil cooler. There is a large oring you can replace. Can't remember full details. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The cold dry air of Colorado is perfect to prevent or reduce the chances of throttle plate icing. New Orleans in the winter would be the worst for it, where the air is full of moisture and its near freezing so the air temp drops and the water condenses to ice just as it crosses the the low pressure zone of the plate. But some experimentation will let you know if it will be a problem for you. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Many cars have coolant flow near the idle valve along with the throttle plate. While leaks into other makes of idle valves happen, the VQ seems particularly prone. I haven't done mine and it's been a long time since I have seen the pics of what it looks like. But everything in a car is corroding at a certain rate. Manufacturers decide on how expensive of alloy to use or how many gaskets or seals to use on a cost benefit analysis. And the ECU has no protection to a short on the IAC drive. This was particularly stupid of Nissan. Doing a gasket change and inspection might work. As stated I haven't done mine. At that point I'd just try the bypass. Anything I do I try to do only once and make permanent, unless it's a wear part. But if you have a Hitachi part in hand that isn't returnable, and +200k on your truck, it seems like a no brainer to throw it in there, learn what it looks like, inspect it, and drive, along with a coolant flush. There is almost no way this will cause the eventual end of your truck. Probably if one replaced their antifreeze every 2 years using good antifreeze with corrosion inhibiters and distilled water, this would almost never happen. But honestly in 10 years I never even changed mine. But cleaning the IAC wouldn't do anything. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

My understanding of the problem is not that the IAC motor fails and goes low resistance, it's that the coolant passageways near the IAC (to prevent throttle plate and IAC icing) corrode and let coolant get into the IAC motor, which subsequently shorts the motor out and presents too low of a resistance to the ECU driver, which is not properly protected electrically. Before my Pathy engine died of lifter death, instead of replacing my IAC, I was just going to bypass the coolant loop through the throttle plate. In those threads you should have seen several references to people successfully doing this without issue. In theory you could run into a throttle icing problem, but no one has reported it. Unless you are in a very cool and humid environment I doubt you'd have a problem. Hitachi is the OEM for many parts on Nissan, but I'm not sure for the IAC. Who was saying bad things about the Hitachi IAC? Did they for sure buy it from a reputable source and not a 3rd party Amazon seller that stuck a fraudulent label on it? I've used a good number of Hitachi parts including coil on plugs, and alternators, and haven't had a problem. You should have zero problems if you want to replace it preemptively, install it correctly, and use a OEM or Hitachi part. You do need to run the idle air relearn procedure. After this many years there is almost 0 chance that a new part has the same electrical characteristics as your old one. Do you have the service manual? It has the procedure in there. If the above is correct, then replacing only the motor wouldn't make sense.

I had this happen on my 1990 Nissan Maxima. Turned out the alternator was going out, and the ECU was going into limp home mode due to undervoltage, where the maximum RPM was something like 2,500, and if you tried to rev the engine up any higher while in gear, it would start cutting out and bucking.

Best case, shocks shouldn't be used to make up load capacity. However I do have Monroe spring assisted load shocks on my Acura MDX for towing. I don't like them and wouldn't use them again. Airbags can work. But they are best for variable loads. If this load is going to always be in your truck now, I wouldn't use them. Or I'd use them in conjunction with springs that can handle your base load. I have Firestone airbags on my MDX because that's about the only other option for it for towing. I like them fine. If you search the forums for Land Rover springs, there are several much cheaper options than OME or AC lift springs. I have AC lift springs on my broken down Pathfinder. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I put airbags on an Acura MDX. I could have loosened the bolt on the bump stop without removing the spring. But it would have been harder than just removing the spring, and I couldn't have physically removed the bump stop from inside the spring. Then I also had to drill a hole in the spring perch for the air line. I swapped my springs on my Pathfinder without removing any components but the shocks. I got the subframe on stands, jacked the opposite wheel up a little and used a spring compressor on the spring I was removing. Didn't disconnect brake lines or panhard rod. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

It's all a continuum. A Nissan Sentra has some off road ability, just not much. I can't remember did 2wd of that vintage have LSD, or an option you got? That would help on loose ground. Your 2wd would do OK on rocky and fairly flat terrain. You'd want to skip inclines that increase as they go up. Also be careful mudding or loose sand, I'd say don't do it. Anything that's real slick but can stick you up if the front wheels can't help pull you through. Hard pack sand would be fine. And always have a recovery plan. Getting a cheap electric winch would be recommended if you plan to push it at all. And carry a shovel. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yes I think that's it but pic is blurry and dark. I've never had to replace mine. I think you'd just remove the top links, remove the bar bracket, then hopefully tetris it out. Might have to remove wheels. Would be best to review service manual. Probably has detailed steps. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk