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Look on the other side of the axle towards the front. It will have an arch over the pumpkin, and short arms that L forward, and then 2 short links that go up to connect to the subframe. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Nope. That's a panhard rod. It provides the side to side location support of the axle to the body, so the axle doesn't go scampering off to the left or right. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Unlikely but possible. With cars, one discounts the possibility of something failing, especially if it has been recently replaced, at their own peril. But that is what service manuals were written to help with, and using scan tools that can read sensor outputs. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

A MAF sensor can also cause poor running, especially at lower engine speeds. But they aren't a cheap throwaway part swap, so id run the diagnostic on it. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

You should get that fixed, but there's no way an o2 sensor should cause rough start. The ECU has a preprogrammed fuel map for starting and cool idle until the o2 sensor gets to temperature. My 01 had starting trouble when the fuel filter got clogged, and when I got confused about using 60k spark plugs instead of 100k. Besides that, I'd look for vacuum leaks, correct air and coolant temp readings, and the idle air control motor. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

In my experience once the cracks start to show, they go fast. If you really want to cheap out, of course you could probably duct tape them, and as long as it sealed good, you'd never know it. When I needed mine it was hard to find, and I'm really happy I went with the K&N CAI (that isn't really). http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/43758-has-anyone-tried-one-of-the-manufactured-cold-air-intakes/?tab=comments#comment-798577

Standard Motor Products is a good brand. But some of the economy parts Rock Auto sells are garbage. The comment about the scan tool is interesting. It leads me to believe that at least they think this car has a key immobilizer. If it does you'd need the Nissan equivalent scan tool, or you'll have to do it the manual way. I've never heard of a generic scan tool that can set manufacturer specific options. I've seen both kinds of ignitions, where the key cylinder is separate to the switch and can be replaced without rekeying, and where they are one. If one and you want one key, you'd need to get a paired set or talk to a locksmith. I'd look this stuff up if I had the 97 service manual, but I only have the 2001 one Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Ah well the other thing I could envision bring wrong is the ignition cylinder and switch being worn out so just turning it to 'on' sometimes allows it to jiggle back to accessory, but flicking it to start maintains enough friction so it doesn't happen then. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Maybe I didn't understand. Your remote start requires the key to be inserted to drive off and that's what the key override feature does? I was thinking the key didn't need to be inserted. But even if it does, id try what you say. It could be the immobilizer does not see the key on start, doesn't look for it again when running, but let's it run a bit before turning off. Having the key taped to the column when the remote start activates would rule that out, even if you have to insert the other key. I'm not sure how they wire around that in older cars without CANBUS. I have heard of some people taping a spare key inside their column. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Given your symptoms with the key start working, and the new entry system not, that anything is wrong with your truck. It's probably the install or new entry system. The reason R50JR said to do that is at least after 2000, the keys had a tiny chip the size of a rice grain in them that must authenticate using a tiny antenna in the steering column. It is completely separate to the keyless entry system or the remotes. You can confirm or rule this out by taping only your key to the column and use your new entry system as normal. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I would check the air intake and coolant temp sensors. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Does that year of Pathfinder have the key immobilizer chip? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The AC springs are harsh like my old leaf spring Scout. I was fine with it. But my wife said her boobs couldn't take it anymore, as our travel trailer towing rig, after the Pathfinder's engine gave out. I can't imagine it being worse than a UPS truck. When it had 400 lbs on the trailer tongue it evened the truck stance out, and made the ride pretty nice. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I don't know if you are trying to economize but you could put the 2" ACs on the front, and the OME MD you have on the back, if you don't need the additional rear load carrying ability. I bet it would be pretty close to level. And if you don't like it, you aren't out anything but a little bit of work to go to the 9449s. I had the AC springs all around, and it had a little too much rake. But it came in handy many years later when I started towing a 3,000 lb RV. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'm going to bet there is a dryed out and blown electrolytic capacitor inside the control panel, if the fuse is good. I'd try to get the service manual for your vehicle and follow the troubleshooting. I'd check for voltage and continuity on the appropriate pins to the panel. It will probably lead you to control panel replacement and in that case you can try to get a junker replacement or open your panel up and see if anything looks suspicious on the control board. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'm sorry I missed in your details the PO did all those part swaps trying to fix this hard start issue. If the hard start was after the timing belt change I would somewhat suspect the belt being off slightly. But since it was before, have you tried cracking the throttle pedal when you try to start it? Could be the idle air controller or the throttle position sensor is bad. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yours isn't so bad it's hydrolocked with fuel. If it was it would freeze after a quick crank. But based on you saying the engine runs rich when you can finally get it started, I think fuel is leaking past the fuel injectors enough that it is too rich to fire. Alternatively you can check to be sure each spark plug is firing, and that the plug cables are correctly wired in order from the distributor. But if they weren't, I'd expect extremely rough running when it does start. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'm betting when he replaced the fuel injectors, he probably pinched an oring ever so slightly that it is leaking. I did that on my Maxima when I thought I was being so careful that I hydrolocked the engine while cranking it. When I removed the spark plugs and cranked it to see, it blew fuel 6 feet into the air. If course yours couldn't be that bad. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'm assuming you still have the factory drive flanges and not manual hubs? If you have manual hubs and are not in 4wd, the front drive shaft wouldn't be turning. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I thought it was 13 INCH/lbs. My smallest quarter inch drive torque wrench couldn't measure it, and I have a specialty one in my Amazon basket I never bought before my lifters died. Yes with the spindle socket on it should spin off with hand strength, but not be able to tighten easily with 2 finger strength. That sucks when you do a big project and it doesn't fix. I understand just needing it fixed now on a daily driver. Assuming the shimmy seems to be from the front, have you tried jacking it up and shaking the wheel and links around? I think it is likely a U joint somewhere. I had lots of trouble with shimmy under high speed braking. As it got worse I think it would occasionally show up driving. I thought it was brake rotor warping, but I learned that almost never happens. What happens is oil contaminated rotors after a good amount of use develop different coefficient of friction along the surface that becomes inherent to the metal, and vibration is caused by the dragging change. This can't be fixed with even turning the rotors. I got to where I quadruple cleaned my rotors on installation with soap and water and scrub brush, and brake cleaner with heavy rubbing, then very careful installation cleanliness, and the problem didn't return. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

That's great it was so easy with the flashers. Do the new hubs come with bearings? As you replace them you could check the preload before removal to be sure it wasn't too loose, and if the bearings haven't spun the hub, you might be able to just replace the bearings. Though if the hubs are pretty cheap it might be worth replacing anyway. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Is the hazard flasher button plugged in? Non working hazards and turns is also a symptom of broken or non existant hazard flasher button. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Well that general location is the starter motor right? I wonder if you have a loose connection or bad solenoid? Mine sounded like top of engine driver side. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'd check all the grounds those sensors are attached to, and I'd verify the fuel pump is working during the prime and start process. I'd look for cuts and frays on wires as mu as possible. And although the car is turning over I'd probably still check battery terminal for tightness and body ground for corrosion. Those kinda things can have really weird symptoms. I used to get a buzz for a second after turning off the car, and turning it on if I didn't go to start immediately. I figured it was the iac resetting, but never really investigated because wasn't a problem. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yes 2wd doesn't drive the front drivetrain Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk