BlackBeatersInTheCity

I've heard about these screws, but I haven't figured out exactly where they are, or how much work it takes to get to them. I did recently find some rust in the front drivers side wheel well. The Research triangle is the name for the Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill area of North Carolina. Lots of universities -> lots of research going on. It rarely snows here, but the truck spent a good amount of time in the mountains, where salt is most definitely a thing.

Oh, and the codes are p0159, p0158, p0505, and p1446. I suspect the only one related to my problem is p0505, idle air control system.

Is there a faster way to do that?

Its a vq35, so it has a timing chain.

Hey! I've got a black 2001 4wd LE pathfinder that I've had since high school. I just got it back after it sat at my dad's for about 1.5 years, and lo and behold, its rapidly approaching 200,000 miles. Despite its many issues, I really love this car, and since a tree fell on my other first car (60k mi. '04 mustang GT), I'd like to keep it going as long as possible. To that end, what kind of preventative maintenance/high mileage mods are recommended to keep one of these going to 300k? It currently has an idle issue, which I've described in more detail in the r50 section, so if you know anything about that, please check it out. Long term, I hate the factory wheels, so I'd like to put black steelies and slightly larger and beefier tires on it eventually. I love camping, but I don't see time for a big off road trip in my near future.

In D, its idling high, ~1100 rpm, and tries to push through the brakes. In park or neutral, it constantly searches for the right rpm, staying between 1100 and 1800. I had the cel codes read at auto zone, but the only one I remember is p505, and the o2 sensor codes. I was out messing with it some more, and it was doing the same thing. Starting out at about 2000rpm, and gradually dropping to about 1500 after a little while, then rapidly oscillating around 1800rpm. I turned the car off, and with my ear to the throttle body area, I could hear that the IACV was still clicking at about the same frequency that the rpms were oscillating at. I turned the car back on, and it immediately went back to oscillating, without the gradual drop at the beginning. I'm 90% sure the IACV is shorted out due to a coolant leak, what I'm not sure about is if the ecm is fried. Every one I read about with a fried ecm had stalling problems, which I don't. Also, I dont think its related, but sometimes it takes several turns of the key to get the starter motor to do anything, usually when its cold. Anyone have any experience with this? Anything you could add would be much appreciated. If I have time tomorrow, I'm going to buy an obd2 reader so I can get all the codes, and I'll update this when I do.