87pathy

Hell, that ain't bad, i have a (i guess kinda rare, never seen it elseware) "Nissan" decal that runs the lower length of the body / door a bright yellow "pathfinder emblemon the back and people ask, "what is it?" dumb ass people. I tell them its a N100. That confuses the hell out of them you can see the nissan in the first pic and barely see the yellow "pathfinder" on the second

14mm bolts? you mean 10mm bolts with a 14mm head for the socket right?

open your radiator cap, start the engine. wait till the T-stat opens and make sure that rad is full. These nissan v6engines are a PITA when it comes to getting all the air out of the engine. make sure that the flow looks like a river inside after its warm and that the water is right up to the top everybody i have spoke to had this problem after changeing T-stat, water pump, or drained the coolant.

my pathy has always done that. and i've had it for 13 years. I belive its a pressure regulator/relief. It does it more the longer it runs. sure there comes a point where it doesn't get any worse but when i first start it, just barely. but when i'm off road its noticable from outside but not inside.

this could possibly be the problem. I remember when i took my air filter out (essentially allowing more flow due to no filter restiction) I had the same effects you are mensioning, like its dronding out. and if you floor it acts like its gonna die. try some restriction in the line, just to eliminate the possibility.

both banks, same problem same time.. that means either you have a vaccum leak, both left and right o2 sensors went bad at the same time, or you have a bad mass air flow sensor. I had the exact same problem with my Expedition. it turned out to be a vaccum leak

don't put a front locker in it, you'll just break axles. IFS, my rig drives like a new truck.. do it right and you'll love the SAS. You don't have to go so big as i did but if you used a waggy front on leafs, you could do it all pretty easily

thats a good deal, you can do the heads in a day, for a good price on a rebuild kit, mostly gaskets, and valve seals. In georgia there shouldn't be much rust, as they dont get teh bad weather. up the northwest ours do very well. my 87 doesnt ' have any. check on things like clutch noise and rear end chatter, you never know how it was driven. have to run these things pretty hard to blow a head gasket. my $.02

i rebuilt my heads at 200k miles, and it runs sweet. These bottom ends ar good for 500,000 miles if taken care of. I'd put new heads on it and go wheeling

What kind of milage are you getting, unless you are commuting over 300 miles a week, i have a hard time seeing 50 bucks a week. I get better than that in my expadition! It does suck,but i would check out your milage.. we may be able to help on this

go to www.cotelind.com

dude,, to check your timing, find your timeing marks on the crank dampner/pully mark them in white with white out or chalk.. get yourself a 10 dollar timeing light and point it down at the arrow to see where it hits.. I don't remember what the correct timing is off of my head but that easy enough to find out i beliver its like -6.. but don't quote me on that. 88, what is the correct timeing? oh if you get a cheap timing light, somtimes its hard to get them connected to the spark plugs.. i just put mine on the distributor #1

ya.. electronic lsd.. never heard of the animal.. unless you are talking about the new.. lsd, that becomes a locker when electronically activated.. but i don't believe that it was ever an option until the 2005 frontier and xterra. as far as brakes.. this is what i believe to be true. on your drum brake setup there should be a check valve somewere in the system that allows a small amount of pressure to always be present in the drum brake (either in the master cylinder or in someplace down streem. sometimes its just a mater of disconneting the line to your master cylinder and removing a little ball in there. not sure about nissans but i've seen it on other rigs) you have to remove this to install disks in the rear. if you don't you will have a heap of parasitic drag on the brakes. other than that, you should be able to bolt it up (rear disc brake caliper cyinders are smaller than the front so you will have more stopping power up front as you would with the drum / disk settup.)

There is a place that i quit using cause every time i filled up there my rig ran like crap.. bad gas will do it.

Well we all know that the xterra is a pathfinder with the wrong name on it. If you don't understand this.. WD21= First Gen pathfinder.. WD22=xterra. its good to see that they put a frame back under the new pathy.. so SAS front and rear, hear we come..lol

do i get teh "dee de dee" award? didn't realize that it was HIS. anyway.. sweet pathy.

who's red pathfinder is that? that is so nice! love the flex... kinda... sexy...

You can take chaces with champion spark plugs.. those things SUCK I can honestly say that i have had nearly as many bad new plugs as i did good ones.. as in buy a box of 8 and 4 of them are no good out of the box. since a japanese plug won't work in an american car, i wonder how my american axles will do in a japanese vehicle.. :gossip:

Thats odd. ok, back to the good old days. I used to have a 1983 honda 3 wheeler, built by HRC for racing, the guy i got it from was sponsored. Now this was an older air cooled bike. Ever time i went through a puddle, water would spray up on top of the engine and the element inside the plug would break due to rapid heat change. If you looked at teh plug you would think it was brand new but was NO good. so i tried going to the Bosh platinums which was fairly new at the time. never again did i have to change my plugs. i put bosh platinums in my pathy 11 years ago. I just changed them. sure they were shot but hey.. 11 years? anyway i'll stop beating a dead horse, just this is new info to me

want some bad avise? Got a welder

elaborate please.. what the hell does platinium plugs do with german cars? I run them in all my newer rigs (post 80's) is there something i don't know?

ok, i don't know much about these iridium plugs.. are they that much better in performace to justify 66 bucks? my platinums went for 10 years and i replaced them for $15.00. with bosh platiniums. so if its a matter of just duration of the plug being 100,000 and i have to change them after 90k for 15 bucks i'd go for the 15 bucks

go planinum.. they are much cheaper and they will last a decade. serioiusly.. i swear by them.

under normal circumstances its not clockable. and i'm not going to clock it either. I'm talking about making a custom adaptor to bolt the two together. The one in front, i'll cut off the front output section and insert new aluminium. And weld her up. Its good to have access to engineering and a machine shop. it has been done

Well, I'm in ohio again so i can't get those trailing arms to you until late april. I do want that T-case though.. thinking doubler. PM me with a price.