87pathy

ok, please educate me, Frist, the swap looks like a class act job! second is your rig a 4 wd or 2wd? if 4wd, what did you use for a transfer case? isn't the the holden left hand output on the transfer case.

thats not the partking brake... i have an anchor in the passengers seet. Hell there aint no brakes at all, even the cylinders re out of the drums.. i aint got no drive lines yet so what the hell do i need brakes for?

Gears haven't been changed, YET. But i will be running 5.13:1 and with hopes in the future to install a calmini xfer case gear reduction.. i believe its a 96% decrease.

Pro comp makes some that are the Rancho 5000 equivalent and they are 5 bucks a piece cheaper (in general) these are what i'm going to be going with when i get that far..

dude... you better do something about all that rust! its everywhere!

I can get in it ok.. but its tall, i have 25 inches of frame clearace, and the lowest point other than that are my radius arm mounts, other than that, i'll have a skid plate that will be at 24 iches from the ground. its all comming together! besides, when was the last time you saw a Pathfinder on 36 x 12.50's you should have seen my 8 year old daughter try to get in it.....

I've been out of the boards for several months, due to the fact that i've been stuck in BFE, china for the last several months. During christmas however, i was home getting some much needed work done on my SAS and Rear axle swap. Its still not done but but getting closer and closer. If you want to see details fo what ha been done, have a look at - http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/HOMEGROWN4X4/

I wouldn't say You have to have a new tranny and T case. You might be able to use a 720 divorced transfer case.

yep, that happens, one of the reasons i went to a SAS

ya it wines and groans when i depress the clutch. Fortunately, the last time i drove it.. (10 months ago) it was realy bad, its time to fix it now, but the first thing is to finish my rear suspension. Hopefully back on the road this spring,

Ya, mines been doing that for 6 years.

Read my lips VACCUUM LEAK!!!! I could be wrong but that same thing happens with a motorcycle, old V8, lawmowers, etc. etc. etc. when you have a bad vacuum leak

//4. Pressure Control Solenoid = 3.6 Ohms // I would say that this coil is no good. i asked our electrical engineer, and he says that since its a DC coil, you can get an idea of what the resistance is. he said someware between 20 - 35 ohms depending on the size of the coil. if you are only reading a couple of ohms, which you are on this coil, it is probably burnt inside and conducting the current directly or close to directly back to the other leg of the coil. as far as the different readings of the coils from after running to not running, this is just heat causing different resistance.

UCA'S = Upper Control Arms Also, Check out Fab tech, I think they make a two wheel drive lift (you are a two wheel drive aren't you?) But i know total Chaos does.. they specialize in Toyota but also have some Nissan stuff.

personally waiting to finda a new 4.0 v6 out of the new frontiers in a couple years. :cool2:

Just on a note, Nissan manuals have a lower tow rating than automatics, I asked a tech once why and he said the clutch due to different driving habits. I'd say no problem Just FYI

Sorry just had to be a smart A$$ its in my nature

You could probably use the seats, worst case senario is that you have to make new mounts wich if you have no fabrication ability then i think you'ld be SOL

good point, i didn't think of that :bow:

Or your radiator plugged.. You can get them tested for free normally.

darn calmini, I was going to go with one of their lifts before i desided to do an SAS but they told me the same things about the coils. and that was well over 1 year ago

-alcohol-

Ok, bring it on, Hell i'll scale it for you

dude you can get a complete ARB for your pathy for like 900 bucks and that replaces your carrier..

yes three marks if your off too much on your valve timing, say goodbye to your valves.. thats the crappy thing